99ViperACR

Just sold my 1999 Viper ACR and bought a 99 WS-6, looking to do
some basic mod's to the WS-6.
1) What shocks/springs should I use to make the car feel more reactive? What other handeling mod's are "musts" on TA's. I am also planning to lower the car for asthetic appeal.
2) What are the first mod's to do for performance increases? (Is the airbox lid mod neccessary for stock ram-air vehicles?)

This car is currently dead stock, (SLP Loudmouth on way).

Also, if I don't use headers (california car) will a cam still help? Which cam do you recommend and which rear-end should I use? (used to 500+ hp w/19" 345's and a 354 rear end).

1BADFNZ

Damn dude, just wondering why you'd trade a Viper for a T/A ... now before flaming me just chill out people. I know this is an LS1 site and all but i LOVE Vipers... would love to own one if i could afford the damn thing. Ah well I'm done now

tim99ws6

iTrader: (31)

1)First and foremost: a good set of Subframe Connectors. They are a must for a F-body. As for suspension upgrade: I suggest doing it right the first time. By this, I mean get the HAL QA1 setup. You will NEVER be dissapointed. It also gives you some adjustibility to the ride height, and allows you to fine tune your shock rigity.

2) basic bolt ons: airlid/cutout/either pro 5.0 shifter for M6 or a converter for a A4 car....

From there, your choices are endless....go for more boltons, or go H/C....whatever you want...

Good Luck
Tim

StoleIt

iTrader: (3)

damn! viper for an fbody? well i bet you got lots of $ left over for modding. Whats already been said is good. Are you looking for a 1/4 mile car or like an auto x car? Subframe connectors, lca's, front and rear sway bars. if ur going for 1/4 mile forget a strut tower brace, but for auto x get one. ditch the 10 bolt and get something decent BEFORE getting better tires. Your 10 should hold up with nitto's but for how long...you never know. might get 2 or 3 passes out of a 10 bolt with slicks, if ur lucky.

99ViperACR

Sold the Viper to buy property in Vegas. 8)

Where's a good site to order the subframe connectors and suspension package from? I definately need better handeling ASAP. Thanks for your quick responses. Also, I am considering buying that SC that was just listed in the for sale section. Will this SC work well without other mods such as longtubes? Thanks in advance.

AK's WS6

I believe people in CA are passing emissions with LT's (i'm shure they also have cats) a mild cam and a tune, then you should be good to go!! and tim99ws6 has suggested a good suspension setup. Good luck and enjoy the site!!!!

12stones

iTrader: (2)

first off, welcome to the site, lots of stuff to be learned on here. well as anyone will tell you the rear end is weak in f-bodys, so for that go with a mosler 12 bolt, or mosler 9". you'll need some tires, so go with nitto 315 drag radials, yes they will fit your WS6 wheels. as far as headers go, no doubt go with long tubes, shorties are trash. you'll see perty good gains out of lt's on a stock vehicle but the really start to shine on a modded car. you could also get a LS6 intake, since yours is a 99. no doubt a lid. i'd say forget the SLP LM, and go with true duals and a X pipe. if its a M6 go with a shifter, and a spec stage 2 or 3. also i'm sure your car would thank you with a 125 dry shot of N2O. i'm not sure on a cam recomendation b/c of emissions but i'd go with big as possible and get some heads to match. just wondering why'd you ditch the viper? but hell, atleast you got the next best thing, a TRANS AM!

tim99ws6

iTrader: (31)

-most any SC will work great, but will make power in different powerbands.
-any of the sponsers of this sit(the best LS1 guys in the business!) would be great to buy from.
-which SC are you looking at? Rule of thumb-vortec's are much easier install, but the cooler for them i think is subpar. ATI's is a very race-style setup(little harder install, but once on....it'll GO) ATI P-1SC-475hp....D-1SC550+.......Only thing is watch out for belt slippage as many REALLY HIGH HP cars seem to have belt-slippage problems

tim99ws6

iTrader: (31)

I agree with all but the tire statement man. Yea a 315 will "fit" on a ws6 wheel, but only 285max of that tire will actually get to the ground. just get some wider wheels and go for those fat boy 315's!

99ViperACR

I just put an order in for SLP subframe connectors (weld on) and an SLP Airbox Lid. Should I go for the whole SLP airbox cold air kit? Will even the Airbox Lid help over the stock WS-6 ram air setup? Thanks in advance for info.

DietCoke

iTrader: (18)

The airbox lid doesnt have a thing to do with the ram-air. It just replaces the lid (top part) with one that's internally smooth. More flow, more power.

tim99ws6

iTrader: (31)

I'd go with a FTRA or super sucker kit and a lid will work great....
Tim

LS1 Brent

Good choice on the trade! basic mods would include 250 plus shot of nitrous and that will do it. haha just kiddin.

Mike 01WS6

Damn....99 ACR is arguabley one of the best vipers to get.....last year of forged piston cars.

I have a 2000 and love it....but if your sale was justified then so be it....have fun with your f-body!!! Ask as many questions as needed. Also, use the search function too, you may get faster results.

99ViperACR

99 Is also the last year of the Koni adjustable suspension, thus the only year of the koni adjustable suspension for the ACR (unless you have a 98 GT-2, basically the same car). But yes it was justified =P and I like the transam so far.

distortion_69

iTrader: (20)

Subframes was a good choice for a first mod. Make sure to install them with the suspension loaded.

Be sure to install relocation brackets if you are lowering the car, BMR has them for less than $100 iirc. I would suggest the weld-in kind. I am also a big fan of the Hals, but Bilstein makes a good shock also though, however, I wouldn't suggest going with the SLP street version. I'd go with the real deal.

Unfortunately your in a tough place for emissions, however, there are ways to get around it I'm sure ($$$). But, if you really don't want to break the law and just have a car you will get no hassles with.... I'd go with the 50 state emissions legal headers, they don't provide as much gain and longtubes on a stock car, but when you start to add on mods they will still give you some gains over the stock manifolds. I'd retain high flow 50 state legal cats, and go with a nice catback system from one of our sponsers.

There are a few emissions legal cams you could stuff in there as well. If you don't want alot of lope, and want a good cam I'd suggest the TR220/114lsa. Colonel has also had great success with the MTI Stealth Cam II. I'd definately look into a cam as your biggest bang for buck power modification. Even with shorty headers, 360rwhp+ is still entirely possible with supporting boltons.

Josh

99ViperACR

Okay, I'm now considering registering the car to my nevada adress, what cam should I get if I'm not worried about passing smog?

BOWTIE

I would disregard these mods. Since you have already paid for the ram air hood (even though you got it used) you might as well use it. The BG ram air is the ram air set up to go with for the WS6. These other 2 are the best option for non WS6's and all Camaro's

distortion_69

iTrader: (20)

"Okay, I'm now considering registering the car to my nevada adress, what cam should I get if I'm not worried about passing smog?"

If you don't mind a rough idle, and want a cam with decent drivability after a tune there are about a zillion cams to choose from. I'll name just a few and you can possibly do a search for them:

Thunder Racing 230
Texas Speed 231/231
Texas Speed 231/237
Texas Speed 228R
Motorsport Technologies X1
Futral Motorsports F10-F13
LG Motorsports G5X-2 & G5X-3

This is just a few out of the CRAPLOAD of cams. However, these are a few of the more popular ones and almost all of these have at some point made 400rwhp stock heads with all boltons at one point. Some of the larger ones on the list have made 420-430rwhp on stock heads. With a nice set of heads you could possibly have a car that could run with or beat your old viper if setup properly. Some of these are more tame than others, but almost all of them will guarantee one hell of a performance upgrade from stock. Longtubes are a must for optimal performance.

Josh

11 Bravo

iTrader: (3)

You seem to want your car to handle like mine You will get a hundred different suggesstions on this site. Here is mine. IMO, Hotchkis makes the best suspension components. Compare them to others and you can see they are very beefy parts. Maybe a little heavier, but who cares. They take alot of stress. They are the most expensive, but you get what you pay for. Quality is second to none. I have Hotchkis SFC's, STB, swaybars, LCA's and aphr. Also have a Spohn chromoly torque arm (the best) and Granatelli springs with Koni SA's. I am running HRE 543 wheels, 19x10.5 rear and 18x9 front and Pirelli P Zeros. The handling is amazing, you can fly into a hard corner at 70mph like nothing. My only complaint is that the car is a little too low. I plan to switch the springs out with Hotchkis ones. Got most of my Hotchkis stuff from MTI. Yes, you will want to get a good rearend. I have a Moser 12 bolt w/ 4.10's. No complaints with it.