samz28

It's like this. I have an A4 so my torque maybe more than the m6 on launch.

Street tires are to nitto 555R (Extreme Drag, not regular) as to 555R's are to ET streets.

You are NOT going to spin the ET's if you heat them up (AKA line lock) you will dead hook or deaD break something.

Now us A4 guys are a little luckier since cheap 4l60e's and 10 bolts last a long time even with ET's due to preload, but if you screw your rear end up and lock it up, then trash your T56 you are talking a BIG BIG bill to fix it, and a TA girdle isn't gonna stop that bill do anything but grow bigger cause you'll be tossing it when you put on the 12/9/8.8.

That being said. ET's are a hooot. You can be a serious newb and dead hook, no need to do the ROFLMA 1/8th mile burnouts on street tires. or 60 foot sideways launches on nitto DR's.

Put them on, heat them up. TACH OUT(m6), or flash stall (a4) and hold on.

drive hard break hard.

anyone got some cheap ET's in good shape for sale?

Z28Venom

iTrader: (13)

On the pass with the 2.4 60', I was definitely almost sideways the entire time. I got off and got back on it, and just lit the tires up again. I'm losing a bit of time on my 1-2 shift too. As soon as I hit second, the rear breaks loose and I kinda get sideways again.

I'm no pro.. Just having fun getting out there and tryin to improve. Like you guys have said. I'm gonna work on doing my best with the street tires and then slap some Nittos on there.

I'd just like to see a 12.5 on the street tires. I'm not sure if that's possible, but that's what I'm shooting for.

hourang

iTrader: (6)

yeah wouldnt listen to him. because street tires have thicker threads, they build up heat more, and cause the rubber to chunk off the tires, have you looked at your wheel well after doin a burnout? lots of rubber chunks huh? this also reduces traction as the pieces just chunk off and dont grip.

he probably says get bigger injectors cuz mustangs come stock with small injectors and everyone upgrades them. hope that helps

Z28Venom

iTrader: (13)

Yea.. I do have alot of rubber in the wheel wells. This post has been a good learning experience..

Strahley

iTrader: (4)

Oop, sorry. Wasn't thinking clearly

Better reaction would still help him win races though...I guess

Strahley

iTrader: (4)

Practice is key. You can't expect to run your best ET your first few times out. You'll learn how to launch it just right in no time, just takes practice

I would use the Nittos until you got a new rear, good choice. However, one of the guys in my club is running ~11.65s on ET streets with 1.6 60 footers...on a factory 10 bolt! It is an A4, but still, I don't know how the hell that thing is still in one piece, he dead hooks every launch. Some 10 bolts are just freaks, I guess. But I would not take that big of a chance though

1BDHWK

iTrader: (18)

Z28Venom

I have had a little over 2 years experience over at Cambell Industrial. The track prep is horrible. More like, there is no track prep. I have run both A4 and M6 there. With an M6, you need sticky tires there. All the way down the track. I went from street tires, to ET Street's, and now I will not hit that track with anything other than my ET Drags. I have spun ET Streets at the top of that track at over 120 more than enough times. And had to checked the pants a couple of times too! I would truly invest in something stickier. Nitto's, and your traction will improve...and your rear will last longer...ET Streets, and you will have all the traction you need with your mods...but your rear ends days will be numbered. But I do not advise hitting that track with street tires. Too many near wrecks. Just my personal opinion. If you have any questions about the track and launching there. Shoot me a pm.

kyle97

iTrader: (10)

So are ya'll saying that Nittos are generally safe to use with the stock 10 bolt? Im thinking about buying some but that was my #1 worry (cant afford a new rearend).

I also currently run on Firehawk SZ50 street tires, and my 60fts. are about the same as Z28Venoms -- mostly 2.2-2.4 with one freak 2.1 in there. Should we be expecting quicker 60's with street tires?

Also, do ya'll think its of any value to practice on street tires, if you are going to be moving up to DRs eventually?

tim99ws6

iTrader: (31)

Sure,
It's definately worth practicing on your street tires. It's nice to know how your car acts in street trim(that's what my car is99% of the time). To be honest, no ls1 should be outside of 2.1 60'......that should be your WORST run....not a freak. What are your MPH you trapping in the 1/4??? The main reason venom is running that bad of a 60' is lack of practice(newsetup) and WAY too much power for his street tires.

Drag Radials(nittos)-I'm not gonna say that your rearend is safe while using DR's. It is alot more stress on the rearend than street tires. But I will say your rear end is less-prone to popping on you than if you were to run some ET Streets....That's all.....
Tim

foff667

iTrader: (2)

ive found with manuals and street tires slipping the clutch out(I know I know) is the best way to launch without spinning the tires or bogging...and granny shifting or just quick shifting the 1-2 shift usually works best as with enough power as you have you can easily blow them away powershifting the 1-2. I totally agree with everyone about DONT DO BURNOUT WITH STREET TIRES...you only want to, as stated, clean them off a bit.

lata
Bill

kyle97

iTrader: (10)

Well actually i drive an LT1 (and i just try to mooch as much info as i can from ya'll ls1 guys!) but, since i make max torque at such a low rpm, i should be capable of 60ft >= to that of an ls1.
My best time was a 14.2@98 w/2.1, but on average i get mid 14s with 2.3.-2.4sixtys. I make 285rwhp/312tq

I always thought that a 2.0-2.1 sixty was REALLY good for street tires and that to get lower you needed to move to sticky tires. DR would then get you down to as low as like 1.5 and then any lower would require full-on slicks. Is this incorrect?

tim99ws6

iTrader: (31)

HM.....2.0's is a good driving good running LS1.....that should get you REAL close to a 12 sec slip in most any bolt on ls1.To pull a 1.5 60' with a M6...you better be getting a helluva alot power to the ground, OR have some AWESOME suspension. Really, with DR's and a M6....and the power Venom is making he should gun for 1.7's in the 60's......that should get ahim a low 12 sec slip...if the rest of the run is good.

2.0-2.1 is pretty good on street tires, but the trick to orunning 12's in a bolt on LS1 is that forst 60'.....the LS1 will handle the top half of the track!

Only 1.5 60's i've seen out of a DR car is in a Well setup A4 car...but thats as far as i know...M6 1.5 60's on a DR is out there.....maybe...somewhere....

hourang

iTrader: (6)

do you have an auto? with my auto on crappy warn out street tires i ran consistant 2.1 60fts(even without the convertor), with a best of 14.1@101mph, my opti was bad, anyway if you have an auto, get a torque convertor asap, if not work on your launch, i would also consider hitting a different track if they dont have good track prep you could be loosing a lot. 2.1 60ft is not REALLY good, was able to pull that off no problem on my auto lt1 and my 5spd supercharged mustang, both with crappy street tires, both spinning off the line. though i cant really compare, street tires are capable to run that no problem.

tim99ws6

iTrader: (31)

He's got a six speed LS1 with a H/C/I setup....also, from what is said on here all the time. It seems hat hawaii(where he lives) has some really subpar track prep, which definately is not helping this poor guy!!

Ru2n00n3er

iTrader: (13)

Ok, what are E.T.s? I'm looking to be buying car like this soon, and I want to race it at the track. But there's is NO WAY I can risk breaking something in the rear end. I know technically the only sure way to avoid that is to not race, but we won't go there. What do I need to do to the car to make sure that it's safe to race without risking breaking anything.

tim99ws6

iTrader: (31)

Et is elapsed time it takes you to get from the time you leave the starting line to the time you cross the finish line...If you're so worried about breaking the rear end(i saw your other post) why not just get a A4 and put a reinforcement TA girdle on it????

There are plenty of guys on this board and in my hometown going WAY faster than you'd ever imagine on a Bone stock rear end.....automatic that is




So....there is no Magic way to keep from breaking stuff....it happens, its part of having the fastest car in your town....the trick is trying to avoid/protect against it.
Any other questions???

Z28Venom

iTrader: (13)

Breaking stuff is just a side effect of going fast. I've been fortunate to only bend a couple pushrods. Just be sure to have little money set aside incase your car needs major surgery

samz28

yah you bought a muscle car man, drive hard, break hard. why you have a beater spare car.

hourang

iTrader: (6)

I was replying to the guy with the lt1. yeah i heard their tracks suck as well.

kyle97

iTrader: (10)

Ive got an M6. I noticed my sixties are currently dramaticallly affected by the weight in my car. Case in point: I drove a freind of mine down the track two times, she weighs about 115lbs. 60fts were all 2.3x.
Same night, same lane, her out of the car, i cut all 2.4x sixty foots.

My best 60s ever were with a full tank of gas and my 3x10'' speaker enclosure in the hatch. My worst sixities ever were with a 1/4 tank of gas and no spkr enclousre.

My conclusion always was that i was severly traction limited and thats what was killing my sixties. Im debating throwing some 50lb barbell weights in the back to see what that does to the sixites (although it will kill me for the rest of the race). Hence me looking into nittos