DubJ

Hey guys,could anyone tell me what I need to get,to run 12's? Or atleast mid 12's? I want to make that my goal to reach. Also anyone runnig ATI procharger? What do you guys think about that system vs.Vortech? Thanks.

Z28Venom

iTrader: (13)

From what I've seen with these cars.. It doesn't take very much..

A lid and some sticky tires would get you pretty damn close if not in the 12's. Depending on track prep..

Check some of the sigs of guys that running 12's with free mods and drag tires..

DubJ

thats cool, that means I'm pretty close to running that now. I gotta buddy thats worrying the **** outta me wanting to race. He said he runs 12.4 in the quarter. I told him that I would own his *** though. He doesnt beleive me though.

soundengineer

iTrader: (16)

All you have to be is a good driver with a good set of tires....

Tranzor

Having a car that's capable of the 12s is different than actually getting it to run a 12... if you screw anything up at all in the first 60', you can forget about a 12 if you're pretty much just running simple bolt-ons.

That said I ran the time in my sig with the mods in my sig... just bolt-ons, gears, and drag radials.

FastRThnU

The most important part is traction. You have decent tires. But Tranzor_Z28 is right on, getting that car do 12's will be all in your ability to run a perfect launch and then not blow the 1 - 2 shift. It'd be more realistic to expect a low 13 pass for at least your first couple tries.

Tranzor_Z28:
That is an incredible 60' time. What suspension parts of your would you say help the most for hooking up to get that kind of time, or is the force just with you? How much do you feel the Nitto's help?


DubJ:
AWD and Stage 1+ = 1.80 60' times, come and get some sucka! (J/K all in good fun)

Tranzor

Thanks! I'd say there really hasn't been any one thing, more like 1/3 suspension, 1/3 gears, 1/3 tires. For suspension, if you're having traction problems or wheel hop problems I definitely suggest an aftermarket torque arm, stiffer LCAs, making sure the LCAs are at the correct angle (meaning parallel to the ground or pointed slightly down toward the axle), and poly bushings anywhere you can put them.

The 4.11 gears also have every bit as much to do with the 60' time as my suspension... there's no way I could cut a 1.75 if I had the stock gear ratio.

The Nittos weren't helping me that much previously, but that's because my LCA angle was way off the past few times I went to the track (LCAs were pointed up toward the axle, not level or pointed down like they're supposed to be). Also I wasn't able to do a good burnout because my Torsen was taking a crap on me... This last time I was able to do a good 5 or 6 second burnout in 2nd gear (gotta love not worrying about breaking a 12 bolt), and I launched at 2500 rpms... no wheel spin, just planted and took off. The Nittos stick great if you're able to get a good burn on them.

FastRThnU

At what power level do most guys need to go to hop up to a 12 bolt? Did you change out before having a breakage problem, or did you bust the last one?

Tranzor

Not really a matter of power level... I had 4.10 gears in my 10 bolt, and those are much weaker than the stock 3.42s. The 10 bolt is inherently a weak point in the car... put sticky tires and a harder clutch along with a stock or just bolt-on M6, and the 10 bolt will probably be lunched, only a matter of time.

The 12 bolt or 9 inch is the best investment to anyone with one of these cars that plans to go to the track a few times a year or more... especially if you ever plan on stepping up to more mods past the common bolt-ons.

LS1LT1

iTrader: (16)

Almost as important as traction is weight, two cars with identical mods but weighing 200 pounds apart will run noticeably different times.
At the very least make sure all loose items (anything not bolted down) are removed, pull jack/spare/floormats/rear cargo cover and run lower fuel levels (but not too low). As mentioned above rear tires are KEY but the pressures you run them at is just as important. Pump up the fronts (and/or run skinnies) as well.
Mastering a 6 speed is harder than an automatic of course and a great driver can make all the difference.
Good luck.

FastRThnU

There you go DubJ, now you know the next mods you need to make.

Tranzor

Gotta second what LS1LT1 said...

I don't have any real weight reduction, but I did take out everything pretty much loose like the spare, jack, etc. Still had the floormats and rear deck cover and all that still in the car though... plus I weight in at a nice 225lbs, so I'm not the lightest driver around.

The PSI of the tires is very important... I ran my Nittos at 21 psi, and they performed flawlessly. When I've gone down to 18 psi my times suffered a bit, and above 22 psi my times suffered a bit. Gotta play around with it to find what will work with your setup. I also ran my front tires at the recommended 35 psi, make sure they're not too low otherwise you'll end up with unecessary drag on the car.

LSmokin1

iTrader: (6)

i ran a 12.77 with mods in my sig, not including the LT,s. Just need a tire and in my case some good shifting.

Judd

iTrader: (1)

I ran a 12.59@111.5 with a Lid, ported TB, 4.10 gears, UD Pulley and ET Streets.

z98

The AWD in those cars is only good for 1.8 60' times?

Really?

FastRThnU

That'd be with me driving it, because I'm the one paying the note.

SMOKIN01TA

iTrader: (10)

went 12.2 with boltons, nittos and 4.10's

Ackattack1

iTrader: (7)

like others say, its all about the driver and traction and finding a balance between spinning and bogging.

I've seen guys run in the mid 13s at 112 mph because they lack the traction/launch technique. I've also seen guys run 12s at 105 cause they got everything right.

z98

I crack up at those guys with AWD saying how good it is.

Then their DSM/3000GT/Evo/WRX/whatever has near 2.0 60' times because they are afraid to launch it because thier clutch/transmission will give out

LOL

What good is AWD if you aren't gonna give it hell on the launch?

I like watching those syclone guys launch

FastRThnU

It's good for traction, even though this car wasn't designed with drag racing in mind. However, a lot of guys who have changed their clutch and do drag race are running 1.6 60' times in the EVO. The clutch is the week point in the EVO driveline. That is Mitsubishi selling an AWD WRC based car in America, where people are fixated with drag racing. They put a week clutch in the car, with a clutch release cylinder restrictor. It makes the clutch come out slow, even if you drop it. They do this knowing that people here would try to drag race the car and break stuff, they wanted that broken stuff to be the clutch (which is only warranted for 12K miles) instead of the driveline. But when you take that restrictor out and drop in a new clutch, you get the jump on just about anything on the street. = )