Beast, first of all, your times will most likely differ form many other on this forum. members in here are from all over the U.S. and elevation makes a huge difference. someone running 13's in colorado will run 11's in E-town. That's why sometimes you'll see a time that says something like; et12.8...12.5(corrected) they base that on estimated time at sea level.

 

right...but taking that all into account i still expected to have a lower time then a 13.2 considering my mods. i think a good portion of it has to do w/ the fact that i can't drive great...yet

 

As my car sits right now (not much different than yours other than gears when it comes to quarter mile setup) I went the times in my sig... not bad, but I know if I got everything right on one run I could hit a 12.4. I could get it down into the low 12s, possibly even 12.0 with a new clutch, underdrive pulley and stickier tires that I could launch at 5k with (I'm only launching at 2800 rpms now, since my clutch likes to burn on launches higher than that). Throw in some skinnies up front, a beefier rear sway bar, and maybe a little weight reduction like tossing out the back seats and putting my doughy 220lbs *** on a diet, then high 11s would be possible.

So what's the formula to get into the 11s? There's no real set one to follow, but this would be a good starting point:

1. Practice at the track... know what your car could potentially run with an excellent driver on a great weather day, and try to get as close to that as possible. There is no mod that can make up for lack of seat time, so get behind the wheel and race.

2. Get every bolt-on... you already have headers, so start on things like ported throttle body and underdrive pulley, and make sure you get your tuning spot on.

3. Suspension. You need to hone the suspension to put the power to the ground... if 11 seconds is what you're after, then give yourself the best chance possible by working the platform up. That means LCAs, torque arm, poly mounts & bushings everywhere you can stick them, SFCs to cut chassis flex, and a larger rear sway bar. Also think about some adjustable shocks and drag springs... need to get good, even front to rear weight transfer on the launch.

4. Rear end. If you're serious about going that fast, then you're going to need serious tires and more power than the 10 bolt will handle safely. That means stepping up to a 12 bolt or a 9"... the money is well worth it if you want 11s and not have your M6 grenade the rear end on your first launch with a car capable of those times. You already have a great clutch, so now is the time to get the rear end to match, and a better driveshaft while you're at it.

5. Gearing. For a bolt-on M6 car, 4.10s are a must if you want any shot at 11s. You already have a great clutch, so 4.10s plus a 12 bolt/9" is pretty much the next best mod you can do.

6. Tires. Again, if you're serious about 11s, hit the track with the best possible... don't settle for less, go after something like ET Streets or QTPs, or something similar. Tires like these also make the 12 bolt/9" pretty much mandatory if you plan on not having a tow truck bill at the end of the night.

7. Right track, right day. Make sure you're going to a track that has a good reputation for being well prepped and well maintained. Also make sure the temperature, humidity, etc. is optimum for your car to run its fastest times.

 

I looked over and saw that you are from Memphis. your el is about 900'. and your time is very good for the mods you have. I run up at Ft Knox Ky and my 1/8's are 8.5's at 950'. that puts me in the mid 13's bone stock and I'm happy...for now. I just bought the car with 10k on it. It will all come in time. Don't get in a hurry to go fast.

 

Marc buy some drag radials, there is a post on WTFBA about some for $50. Put them on and go to the track and heat them up, get a good 5 second smokey burnout. Stage and hold the rpms at about 4000 and drop the clutch and hope nothing breaks. If it doesnt and you dont miss a shift you will go 12.70s atleast I am sure. I dont know why you are worried about ET, mph is what shows if you are making power. ET shows how good your launch was.

 

I agree. This was my second time in my car M6, and i only got a 13.7 @ 102 MPH It will take alot of practice and then the damage begins.

 

right, but good et's is what win races along w/ power

 

At the track et wins races, on the street mostly everything goes from a roll and thats where you mph comes in. What I meant by that was dont feel like your car isnt running right because its ET is more than you want, look at your mph to judge whether or not the car is running right. Be concerned with ETs when you get good tires and your short time drops below 2.0.