GRT

Nobody laugh, OK? I'm 59, never been on a track in my life. I've had cars for the street. I want to take my current ride to the track, to see what "we" can do. I'm going on a "test and tune" night. I don't really want to race, I'm just curious as to what my times would be. All the articles I can find describe launching an automatic. I have a 6 spd. Now for the questions. How can you have one foot on the clutch and one on the break. The light turns. It seems to me by the time the foot comes off the brake onto the accelerator, the engine is revved and the clutch goes out, the race would be lost already. Unless someone put a level on the staging area and the brake is not needed. There must be a better way, but I can't seem to think of one. This forum is for new guys, right? Thanks

blkZ28spt

I don't think the brake is needed while waiting to run. Should be very flat. When the light goes you should hve one foot on clutch one in the gas. Good luck, i'm going to the track for the first time tonight......i'm just a little younger though

Tranzor

Your car won't roll through the staging beams... just come to a complete stop, then take your foot off the brake, and put it on the accelerator with the clutch still pushed in. Rev up to your desired launching rpms, wait until the last yellow comes on, then dump the clutch, crush the accelerator, and hang on!

John95Z28

Like others have said keeping the brake engaged probably isn't needed, but if you were tending to roll, you could try keeping the ebrake slightly engaged with your right hand. That way your feet are free to work the clutch and throttle pedals.

It's just a thought... might not be a good idea in case you forget to slam down the ebrake handle. Wouldn't want a partially engaged ebrake slowing your times down! Good luck

mooleyz28

I never had to hold my brake at the track. Just go to the staging lanes stop completely and then engage the clutch and rev up to your desired RPM's (i put mine to 3 grand but i feathered the clutch NOT dropped it.) (I ran 13.7 at 102 bone stock with me, my car, and another friend who was video taping it.) So i suggest the feathering cuz when u drop it... it starts strong dies down for a split second and then bam your put right back in your seat. I tried many things for launching and ive found feathering it to be the best. (A little hard on the clutch....Im still with my stock clutch at 68k miles and plenty of HARD driving so u pick the drop or the feather which was much more effective for me.)

Hope I make a lil sense and helped out a lil.

John Melamed

davered00ss

iTrader: (4)

Staging lane should be level. No need for the brake. I rev to 1500 and drop the clutch and mash the gas. Go on the last yellow (there are 3) do not wait for green. Do not drive through the water box go arround. No need to burn out with street tires.

Have fun,
Dave

heymoej

iTrader: (67)

There must be a better way, but I can't seem to think of one. This forum is for new guys, right? Thanks[/QUOTE]
hey,yes this is for new people!!!! i am 47 years old & took my m6 2000 ss to the track for the 1st time.my best was a 13.6 @ 106. i actually spun thru 1st 2nd & 3rd a couple of times because i came out to hard on the gas & popped the clutch,do not do that unless you have tires for it!!!!!!! they were my worst runs!!!! my best runs i actually came out with the clutch & then floored it & go thru the gears.my first 3 runs were in the low 14 teens so be prepared to practice!!!!!!! have fun & post up your results!!!!!! john

99-LS1-SS

This is probably your safesty bet.

RUSSH

Not too bad...I've got a couple of friends that have yet to break 14's in thier cars.

God of Thunder

ive only gone once and couldnt break 14

02 WS-6

iTrader: (1)

if you have tires a line lock always works well, engage it at the staging line, rev up to desired rpm, while giving it gas, smoking the tires, and release at the last yellow light, however this is not recomended on high horsepower cars with the stock 10 bolt, it will break the weekest link, in this case it would be the rearend. regardless on which way you launch, it all takes practice, I would go with the dump and a light feather of the clutch until you get traction, then hit it, save your money get a 12 bolt, or 9", and a line lock and your be set.

Stone0fFire

first off, you shouldnt need to hold on to the brake after coming to a complete stop.
secondly, even if you did, why should you care how long it takes to move your foot from the brake to the throttle?
you say, "I don't really want to race, I'm just curious as to what my times would be."
and so who cares what your reaction time is?
doesnt the clock start when your car crosses the line?

i know you want those low ETs,
but you really shouldnt be going to those downhill dragstrips.
then you wouldnt need to use the brake off the line.

T-maxx

I'll offer you some advice. DON'T worry about the guy staging next to you. Wait a full second or two let him go then make your run. Your ET and MPH will be the same no matter what the reaction time. Don't sit there for an hour because they will stick a rag in your tank and make it a malotoff LS1.

mattv3

like everyone is sating no need for the brake i have bad wheel hop when i dump my cluch so i like sliping the cluch in stead not to much. if you slip it to much you will smell a nasty smell. thats sliping to much! my best is a 8.6 at 84mph with loud mouth and k&n

92POS

jaberwaki

first off bring your backtire pressure down to 22-20 lbs(dont go below 20 lbs on street tires) then drive up to the lanes.
after the tech waves you into the waterbox drive around it if you dont have drags or slicks on...(if you do then a burn out is needed... ) after driving around the water box you want to back up a little to just b4 your tires hit the water.
bring your rpms up to about 3500-4000 and sidestep your clutch ... dont leave your foot on the floor your just "dusting off " your tires so they are clean when you stage.2 things **** off other racers.. people who drag water up to the staging and people who drag up rocks... both are bad for traction.

very slowly start pulling foward... watch the lights on the tree. there are 2 lights that say stage on them. one will light when you are close... inch forward and the second will light. STOP... you are now staged.
after the guy next to you stages the amber lights will start to fall.. there are three of these after the last one the green light at the bottom lights...
on your first couple runs do not mind the lights at all they will just get your adreniline pumping harder then it already is...

in a pretty much stock ls1 you dont have to worry too much about lighting a 2 tire fire unless you rev too high off the line... so on street tires i would recomend bringing your rpms to 2200-2500... then performing a clutch "roll"

this is not the same as a dump, a dump is letting your shoe slide off the side of the clutch causeing it to KICK (and unless you have slicks on causing you to burn rubber)
a roll is a quick pulling up of your foot ... your foot cant get out of the clutches way faster then it can jump up, so even without trying you are slipping the clutch just enough to keep traction. while your left foot is coming up your right foot should mash the gas. think of it like you have your feet conected by a counter ballance scale as one comes up the other goes down at the same rate.
if you did it right the car will lurch foward, bog just a little , and fly.....
if you do it PERFECT then your car will not bog at all and your tires will be "chirping" just a little , just on the edge of lossing traction(and sanatey)but holding....(note the first time you feel a perfect launch try to remember that you still have to finish the race

hope this helps... now get out there and



i guess it would help to put my bone stock track numbers..

13.0 @ 109
1.9 60' on stock rubber
1100+ DA

Velocity

My first time ever down a dragstrip in a bone stock 6-speed WS6... I ran 13.5 @ 107. By the end of that day, I had my time down to 13.3 and my trap said 109 (I still doubt the integrity of that number, but that is a whole nother story...)

Here's how I did it:

1) Drive around the water pit.

2) When directed by the staging lane attendent, do a quick burnout to dust the tires off... rev to 3000-4000 and dump the clutch, try to keep the revs around 4000 for about a second or two...

3) Drive up to the tree slowly... there will be a small box in the middle with light beams looking for your car. Pay attention to other cars to get a relatively good idea where they are lining up. If worse comes to worse, the stager guy will realize you are a newbie and direct you to position.

4) Come to a complete stop when both sets of lights atop the tree are lit. (You will not need to hold the break).

5) Rev engine to 1200 RPM.

6) Slightly remove pressure on the clutch until you are right before its friction point (I assume you have driven the car long enough to have the feel for where that point is... if not, get a feel for it before you go, it will help )

7) When that last yellow lights up, GO!!!! Dump that clutch hard and stand... I mean STAND on that gas pedal. 5900 RPMs, off the gas, pop the clutch, bang 2nd, back on the gas... rinse, and repeat 2 more time

8) Let the car rest about a half hour between each run, and try to get in at least 4 or 5 runs to feel it out, trying different things, before you really start to fine-tune your techniques.

Remember, you are going to be nervous, and that is NORMAL! Every time I go to the dragstrip, my first run of the day is usually the worst... and I want to get it over and done with to settle the jitters...

... and if you are struggling with timing the lights, take waht the other guys have said and go when you want. Your ET (elapsed time) doesn't start counting until you leave the box anyway.

Have fun, and most of all, be safe

89FormulaLS2

iTrader: (1)

GREAT THREAD!!!

1BADFNZ

absolutely... making me want to get out to a track

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

i like to let my clutch out while stopped slowly untill the car starts to move slightly, then push it back in a little bit. rev it there then let the clutch out. if you ever have traction problems, i would wait untill you feel the car transfer all its weight to the rear , then nail it.