Need to drill and retap a hole. Suggestions for keeping hole straight as possible.
#1
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Beachwood, Ohio
Posts: 486
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Machine shops drill out and retap hole with a drill press- I think. I am drilling a hole larger and rethreading it and then screwing in a timesert thread insert that has a stock sized hole.
http://www.timesert.com/
which will be stronger than a helicoil.
I want to drill and rethread by hand at the correct angle. Any suggestions.
http://www.timesert.com/
which will be stronger than a helicoil.
I want to drill and rethread by hand at the correct angle. Any suggestions.
#2
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Hawthorn Woods, IL
Posts: 694
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
What size is the hole now and what size will it be? how much room do you have to work? Since you don't have a drill press I assiume you don't have access to a mill to make a drill bushing to bolt down/clamp. In that case your best option would be to drill in small increments like a 1/16" at a time- drills always tend to follow an existing hole anyway so if you are careful you should be ok.
#3
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: May 2004
Location: house near beach
Posts: 543
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
True, machine shops use a drill press on slow speed.You may even try a light oil like WD 40.Like roadrunner said,take your time and size up the hole slowly in small increments if possible, don't start by drilling a 1/4 inch hole. If you want since your drilling by hand, hold the drill like a pistol, pointing down with your first finger, using your middle finger on the trigger to slowly drill the hole.We do this alot in aviation hope that it helps you.
#4
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Beachwood, Ohio
Posts: 486
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Those are helpful tips.
I had a thought. I could find a pipe or spacer of the correct diameter and place it flush and centered over the area that will be tapped. I could then place the drill bit through the spacer whole and use the spacer/pipe as a guide.
Does that sound like it will work?
I had a thought. I could find a pipe or spacer of the correct diameter and place it flush and centered over the area that will be tapped. I could then place the drill bit through the spacer whole and use the spacer/pipe as a guide.
Does that sound like it will work?
#5
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Beachwood, Ohio
Posts: 486
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by 87gnx
If you want since your drilling by hand, hold the drill like a pistol, pointing down with your first finger, using your middle finger on the trigger to slowly drill the hole.
#6
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Beachwood, Ohio
Posts: 486
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by Roadrunner 45
What size is the hole now and what size will it be? how much room do you have to work? .
http://www.timesert.com/bigsert.html
has oversized threads that will correct the problem. I have enough room and material in the head to drill and insert the oversized insert into. I just want to make sure I drill at the correct angle or else I will be buying new heads.
#7
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: May 2004
Location: house near beach
Posts: 543
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by shep28
rocker arm bolt hole. tap is .463 in diameter. I drilled out a broken rocker arm bolt- drilled slightly over the holes original diameter. at first I drilled with a hand held drill- not enough rpms to drill through the bolt. I then used my air dremel with a carbide tip and it cut through the bolt like butter. The bigsert timesert
http://www.timesert.com/bigsert.html
has oversized threads that will correct the problem. I have enough room and material in the head to drill and insert the oversized insert into. I just want to make sure I drill at the correct angle or else I will be buying new heads.
http://www.timesert.com/bigsert.html
has oversized threads that will correct the problem. I have enough room and material in the head to drill and insert the oversized insert into. I just want to make sure I drill at the correct angle or else I will be buying new heads.
Trending Topics
#8
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You might try building a little jig to hold your drill...something along the lines of a couple of dowels inserted into adjacent rocker arm holes for the angle and a couple other shortened legs on other points of the cyl. head, all supporting a base with a cutout for the drill.
The thought of tapping an alum. cylinder head with a hand drill scares me, though. Be VERY careful of your rpm and feed rate...and use a little cutting fluid.
Just for thought, a small drill press can be bought for less than a cylinder head...
If you've got the head off already, any machine shop can do the work for you, as well. Most shops only charge $80-$100 for a helicoil, the TimeSert is the same basic idea.
EDIT: Incidentally, it was mentioned that a hand drill didn't have enough speed to drill into aluminum...you shouldn't need any more than half-speed on your drill. If you were revving it faster and faster and getting nowhere, most likely your pilot hole was far too small.
The thought of tapping an alum. cylinder head with a hand drill scares me, though. Be VERY careful of your rpm and feed rate...and use a little cutting fluid.
Just for thought, a small drill press can be bought for less than a cylinder head...
If you've got the head off already, any machine shop can do the work for you, as well. Most shops only charge $80-$100 for a helicoil, the TimeSert is the same basic idea.
EDIT: Incidentally, it was mentioned that a hand drill didn't have enough speed to drill into aluminum...you shouldn't need any more than half-speed on your drill. If you were revving it faster and faster and getting nowhere, most likely your pilot hole was far too small.
Last edited by Rhysamedrae; 06-19-2004 at 08:34 AM.
#9
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Hawthorn Woods, IL
Posts: 694
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by Rhysamedrae
The thought of tapping an alum. cylinder head with a hand drill scares me, though. Be VERY careful of your rpm and feed rate...and use a little cutting fluid.
If you mess up, or it looks like it won't work for you I can have one of our guys spruce it up if you send me the head (I have a machine shop- not an engine shop, but we do precision machining and can fix this easily).
#10
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Beachwood, Ohio
Posts: 486
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by Rhysamedrae
You might try building a little jig to hold your drill...something along the lines of a couple of dowels inserted into adjacent rocker arm holes for the angle and a couple other shortened legs on other points of the cyl. head, all supporting a base with a cutout for the drill.
The heads are still on the car. I have a couple jig designs that I have sketched. I will build them today.
EDIT: Incidentally, it was mentioned that a hand drill didn't have enough speed to drill into aluminum...you shouldn't need any more than half-speed on your drill. If you were revving it faster and faster and getting nowhere, most likely your pilot hole was far too small.
The heads are still on the car. I have a couple jig designs that I have sketched. I will build them today.
EDIT: Incidentally, it was mentioned that a hand drill didn't have enough speed to drill into aluminum...you shouldn't need any more than half-speed on your drill. If you were revving it faster and faster and getting nowhere, most likely your pilot hole was far too small.
#11
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Beachwood, Ohio
Posts: 486
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by Roadrunner 45
Do not use the drill to drive the tap- if it began to pack up with chips you wouldn't feel it and you could end up galling the new threads as you tap. Get a tap handle and do it by hand once you have the hole to size.
If you mess up, or it looks like it won't work for you I can have one of our guys spruce it up if you send me the head (I have a machine shop- not an engine shop, but we do precision machining and can fix this easily).
If you mess up, or it looks like it won't work for you I can have one of our guys spruce it up if you send me the head (I have a machine shop- not an engine shop, but we do precision machining and can fix this easily).