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If I pull that other head, it's probably not going back on. If I take something off, something better is going back on.
My point exactly, time for heads and cam! But since you said no budget right now, at least one more head gasket and head surfacing won't be hardly anything to have a smooth running engine. Maybe I'm too OCD but it would kill me to have one side fresh and the other side old.
With that many miles the engine is ready to be freshened up. The rod and main bearings on my LS1 after 150k looked okay but I still wouldn't have ran them again. The cam bearings on the other hand had visible signs of wear and was evident they needed to be changed.
How many miles on the car? Have the plugs & wires been changed? Have you done a visual on your intake tract - air filter, any crud on the MAF screen, gummed up TB, oil in the intake?
Hate to say I told you so ... I wish for your own sake that you had taken it back to the track before modding to see what difference the freshening up made and to establish a baseline for mods to come.
That being said, with the one head off, I agree with the others about doing the other gasket for equivalence. And now's the time to get that valvetrain into nearly new condition and if you have any thoughts of a cam ...
Hate to say I told you so ... I wish for your own sake that you had taken it back to the track before modding to see what difference the freshening up made and to establish a baseline for mods to come.
Yep, the basics got ignored here for sure. Hopefully there are no lingering issues with the MAF or fuel system that impact performance going forward.
yep when i first got my car and put on an SLP air lid i noticed 2 small bird feathers on the screen. i choose to keep my screen on my MAF. i cant wait to hear the difference utinator's car makes rippin down the track.
i was just glancing at your engine bay pic and since you have the black covered egr tube going into your intake as a reminder there is a free mod to cut off the egr thing hanging down in the front of the intake just past the throttle body. ps make sure you have an aftermarket air lid , flows way better than stock (1st mod). cheers! http://installuniversity.com/ls1/ins...r/ls1-egr.html
The EGR and AIR have been deleted. It now has an SLP lid and used (but clean) LS6 intake. If the rest of the parts get here soon, I should have it back on the road this week. I'll post updated photos when I get it back.
Yep, looked like 11" or 12" in the pic. Billet front cover though which is a bit unusual on a big converter like that. My guess also would be 3000 stall which seems to be typical for 11" converters.
I am of the belief the MAF probably died prematurely overtime due to the gunk on it and that the readings caused it to run too lean thus overheating the cats killing them prematurely as well causing them to clog ending in the severe power loss the OP has... as the other have stated, if your LS1 is in the 14's there's something seriously wrong with it. Even by todays standards stock LS1's are considerably quicker than most stock sporty vehicles except the late model V8's.
I'm kind of in the same boat, not long ago got a MIL for a CAT, but I believe my MAF is the culprit.. will be replacing both my MAF and whole exhaust soon.
For what its worth I used to work for Delta Airlines and I first hand watched Jets get taken out of commission temporarily for repairs and the corners they cut to get them back in the air ASAP as to not lose money or spend on expensive repairs.. ..let me just say.. I will NEVER fly on a commercial aircraft after seeing what I saw.
I am of the belief the MAF probably died prematurely overtime due to the gunk on it and that the readings caused it to run too lean thus overheating the cats killing them prematurely as well causing them to clog ending in the severe power loss the OP has...
Could be. But it would have been interesting to see how the car performed with the MAF unplugged, then we'd know if there were other issues beyond just the intake blockage and MAF itself. I also don't believe that fuel pressure was ever checked. Hopefully the OP doesn't have lingering power loss issues due to a problem that's still present after the mods and tuning.
Could be. But it would have been interesting to see how the car performed with the MAF unplugged, then we'd know if there were other issues beyond just the intake blockage and MAF itself. I also don't believe that fuel pressure was ever checked. Hopefully the OP doesn't have lingering power loss issues due to a problem that's still present after the mods and tuning.
I'm definitely hoping after pulling the heads that they'll check fuel pressure. That would suck to find out after all that he has a bad fuel pump.
What would it take to make a Gen. 4 run the 1/4 mile in 12 seconds, and stay street legal? Eventually, I would like to break into the 10's. For now, I'd be happy just keeping up with the F-150 Eco Boost.
So far, my best 1/4 mile time is 14.9 seconds. I would like to get that down to 12 seconds N/A. What mods would it take to do that? How much money do I have to throw at this car to make it move?
Well, I believe I have my answer. I picked up my car today, and found out that it has either a bad fuel pump or clogged fuel pump. Either way, the fuel pump is part of the problem. It wasn't the only problem, but it still remains a problem. I plan on changing it myself in the near future. After two weeks in the shop and over $8k spent, I decided to pull the plug on this phase of the project.
Here's what I have done so far:
-4L80 w/Circle D converter (and misc. parts for the swap)
-Kooks headers and catted Y-pipe
-SLP airbox/lid
-EGR & AIR delete
-Tuned by Frost
-New: fuel filter, Syn. eng. oil & filter, spark plugs & wires, O2 sensors, BMR torque arm & trans crossmember. Trans cooler and fluid, intake manifold gaskets, 1ea head gasket, 1 set of head bolts.
The LS6 intake was installed, but it leaked severely. It had to be removed and replaced with the original LS1 intake. More to come on that.... I'll be looking for a fuel pump, which I plan to replace myself. My best guestimate would be about $250 more for parts and shop rental to go. Then, I should be running mid-12s.
Well, I believe I have my answer. I picked up my car today, and found out that it has either a bad fuel pump or clogged fuel pump. Either way, the fuel pump is part of the problem. It wasn't the only problem, but it still remains a problem.
This seemed like a VERY strong possibility from the beginning, which is why I continued to recommend getting an FP gauge on there ASAP (as well as monitor fuel trim data.)
The basics have to be right before you can worry about making additional power with modifications, otherwise the car will always under perform and you won't know if it's an issue with the new parts or something left over prior to modifications.
I think a new fuel pump and getting that intake/MAF obstruction cleared would have found the majority of that missing ~100hp and had this car performing just as a stock LS1 should.
Originally Posted by Utinator
-Tuned by Frost
Not sure how the tuning could be complete and proper with poor fuel pressure/failing pump.
Once all the problems are fixed, between a proper running engine and all the new modifications I think you will be shocked at how much more power the car has.
02-22-2018, 05:53 PM
