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Old Apr 7, 2018 | 07:24 AM
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Default Stall question

Next week I'm having my transmission rebuilt and will be adding a yank4k stall. Car is currently tuned by frost for the headers and intake. Will I have any issues driving the car home without it being tuned for the new converter ?
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Old Apr 7, 2018 | 08:01 AM
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The question should have been posted in the auto trans forum and it is a common question asked there. No,you shouldn't have any issues.
What vehicle ???
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Old Apr 7, 2018 | 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by FirstYrLS1Z
The question should have been posted in the auto trans forum and it is a common question asked there. No,you shouldn't have any issues.
What vehicle ???
This forum is called "newbie tech questions"...
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Old Apr 9, 2018 | 11:00 PM
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when i did my converter i was told by my tuner not to drive the car when i put the 4k converter in so after the install was completed he came out to me and did the tune, he was telling me that if i drove the car without getting it tuned i could burn somthing up "cant remember what he said exactly would burn up" but i build motors not transmissions so i took his advice
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Old Apr 10, 2018 | 06:49 AM
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It should be fine but it may throw a code because it may think the transmission is slipping. If it does it may go into limp mode which will cause it to not to shift right and sometimes only have 2nd gear . This is what the tuner is talking about . There is a couple different codes he will have to disable and have to adjust your lockup speed and shift points. I wouldn't drive it anymore than I had to before it's tuned. If you have to drive it and it throws a code and acts weird unhook the battery and clear the code.
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Old Apr 10, 2018 | 01:18 PM
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The 2001+ cars are more sensitive to this, having the issues mentioned in the post above. The earlier cars don't tend to have this condition. When I first put a 3500 stall into my '00 car, I didn't bother to tune for quite a while (this was back in 2001, tuning options were very limited.) Everything worked just fine, no limp mode, nothing burned up or got damaged. I drove it for thousands of miles that way. The lockup feature will also work fine on a stock tune as long as you don't have any misfires (e.g. an aftermarket cam, etc.)

Somewhere in that 3500-4000 stall speed range is where the later cars tend to throw codes with a stock tune. You didn't mention what year your car was, so that might make the difference regarding what issues (if any) you might see.
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Old Apr 10, 2018 | 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by RPM WS6
The 2001+ cars are more sensitive to this, having the issues mentioned in the post above. The earlier cars don't tend to have this condition. When I first put a 3500 stall into my '00 car, I didn't bother to tune for quite a while (this was back in 2001, tuning options were very limited.) Everything worked just fine, no limp mode, nothing burned up or got damaged. I drove it for thousands of miles that way. The lockup feature will also work fine on a stock tune as long as you don't have any misfires (e.g. an aftermarket cam, etc.)

Somewhere in that 3500-4000 stall speed range is where the later cars tend to throw codes with a stock tune. You didn't mention what year your car was, so that might make the difference regarding what issues (if any) you might see.
Thank you for posting this, I was wondering if I *needed* a tune once I get mine done. My buddy was telling me that I don't even want to put a stall in until I get bigger cam and stuff, but I was thinking doing something that was still driveable on the street without feeling too loose for other drivers (I don't just let anyone drive my car, but a few trusted people I do) so I was thinking 3500. I'm not sure what the stock stall is (like 1800 or something?) I also already figure my buddy is off on his advise, because tons of F-Body 4th Gen experts on here literally recommend the stall as the first upgrade after the SLP airlid. So I guess that and a trans cooler would be next on the list.
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Old Apr 10, 2018 | 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by RPM WS6
The 2001+ cars are more sensitive to this, having the issues mentioned in the post above. The earlier cars don't tend to have this condition. When I first put a 3500 stall into my '00 car, I didn't bother to tune for quite a while (this was back in 2001, tuning options were very limited.) Everything worked just fine, no limp mode, nothing burned up or got damaged. I drove it for thousands of miles that way. The lockup feature will also work fine on a stock tune as long as you don't have any misfires (e.g. an aftermarket cam, etc.) Somewhere in that 3500-4000 stall speed range is where the later cars tend to throw codes with a stock tune. You didn't mention what year your car was, so that might make the difference regarding what issues (if any) you might see.
My very late 2000 model did fine with a 3000 stall, but when I went up to 3600, it started throwing codes and going into limp mode when I did burnouts at the track. I ended up having to tune out some of those diagnostics to get the problem to stop - which is to say, that with a 4k stall, you are very much likely to have to do the same.
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Old Apr 10, 2018 | 09:59 PM
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My car is a 99 model and I did have some problems with this. The converter is the best mod hands down. Go at least for a 3600 .
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Old Apr 10, 2018 | 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by SouthernRex
My buddy was telling me that I don't even want to put a stall in until I get bigger cam and stuff
Some poor advice indeed (as least as it applies to LS1 F-bodies). There is a huge amount of performance potential left on the table with a stock torque converter, even with the stock cam.

Originally Posted by RevGTO
My very late 2000 model did fine with a 3000 stall, but when I went up to 3600, it started throwing codes and going into limp mode when I did burnouts at the track. I ended up having to tune out some of those diagnostics to get the problem to stop - which is to say, that with a 4k stall, you are very much likely to have to do the same.
Originally Posted by zzracer
My car is a 99 model and I did have some problems with this.
Interesting that 3600 was the breaking point. Was that an older Vig/PI unit? (I seem to recall a 3600 Vig being more like a 3800-4000 stall speed in an LS1 application).

The SY3500 I had from Yank gave me no such issues with a 100% stock tune on my 05/00 built 2000 car. Burnouts, racing, street driving, etc. - never any codes or limp mode stuff. Only slight issue was a bit of idle surge when sitting at a traffic light in gear (which mostly cleared up on it's own with an idle relearn, but never fully went away until I did additional tuning).

I really don't remember this being a problem for any of us with stall speeds of 3500 or less on the 2000 or earlier cars in those early days when tuning wasn't readily available. I do recall several guys encountering this with 2001-02 cars though, even at 3500 stall speed.
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Old Apr 11, 2018 | 07:52 AM
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0757 burned me a bunch of times. Would cause a loss of 1st and 4th. You could pull over and cycle the key and it would reset. I would recommend a tune yes.
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Old Apr 13, 2018 | 12:06 AM
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Originally Posted by RPM WS6
Interesting that 3600 was the breaking point. Was that an older Vig/PI unit? (I seem to recall a 3600 Vig being more like a 3800-4000 stall speed in an LS1 application).
Yank SS3600. No issues with my previous TCI SF3000.
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Old Apr 13, 2018 | 05:50 AM
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My car is a 1999 and I appreciate all the replies
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