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This thread is about to cam or not to cam. Apparently op is looking for better acceleration. I'm only offering him other ways that will likely be more effective to getting the car to accelerate better. After all that is the name of the game.....not which cam you think should be shoved in it.
and yea i am modest. I merely point out the results of what i have been involved with. Isn't that what the forum is for?
so far it seem the fast intake, roller rockers , fp trans, tilton clutch is much more effective than your cam.
it had no crank scraper in the vid. But yes another effective mod the does not retract from drivability one bit and only adds to efficiency. Sobwhy act like it's a bad thing?
LPE claims 25-30hp. Area under the curve gains in this range can definitely be felt. https://www.lingenfelter.com/product/L210085297.html
i just realized youre an auto. Gains below 3k are not very useful if you have a 3k stall so focus on gains from 3k to redline. You also need to take into account that 4l60e's do NOT like rpm. If you get a good sized cam like the standard 224r, it's going to push the powerband up. If you decide to do a cam and don't want to rev higher or build the 4l60e, you will want to look at the smaller Titan cams, or triple 12 cams, or possibly even truck cams that will gain area under the curve but peak close to stock. Just depends what you're willing to do.
On the side note, have you considered Forced Induction? Its more expensive definitely but you will have alot of power without the noise (unless you want the noise too)
If I went that route I would be eating Top Ramen for a month lol.
1. you don't need a larger MAF with your, or most, builds
2. you would need to get it re-programed if you did and it would yield little if any power gain
3. the screen is there for a reason. It "stabilizes" the air flow over the MAF wires for better, more consistent, readings.
I read many horror stories about people de[screening the maf, thats not for me.
I've taken peoples maf screens out in the staging lanes and watched them pick up .1-.2. Never seen a problem with it at all. People having issues with it likely damaged their maf.
What are your goals? Just keeping it a cruiser? If yes then I would say it's not worth it for you. There's plenty of other ways to get more pep out of the car just as Hio pointed out. I'd personally recommend gears.
I've never dealt with the de-screened maf horror stories others have mentioned, even though I've dealt with a handful of de-screened factory 85mm maf's and not one had caused problems.
OP, if you want to look into other ways to increase performance other than a cam, HioSSilver has quite a bit of hands-on experience with making factory cam LS cars going pretty damn fast, surprisingly fast actually. You might want to pick his brain some to see if that route might better suit your needs.
I just went through your same exact situation with my Camaro earlier this summer. My car has 32k miles on it and is only used for cruising, like you the most I usually do is just run it through the gears or do a quick 1-2 pull so I was on the fence. But l ended up putting a TSP 228R on a 112 LSA in the car. Couldn't be happier, car definitely feels faster and don't even get me started on the sound man, that alone is worth the money. My tuners printer was down when I picked my car up from the install but IIRC I made around 370 wheel? I have a 3600 stall and full-bolt on's as well, stock 3.23's
If you are in NY check out JTM in LI. They share the same building with ARH. I did a mild Brian Tooley cam and catted ARH LT's. along with TF heads and supporting components...Circle D 3200 stall....etc. and couldn't be happier with sound, performance and how close it feels to stock...except for a LOT more power!! And passed CT emissions no problem.
I just went through your same exact situation with my Camaro earlier this summer. My car has 32k miles on it and is only used for cruising, like you the most I usually do is just run it through the gears or do a quick 1-2 pull so I was on the fence. But l ended up putting a TSP 228R on a 112 LSA in the car. Couldn't be happier, car definitely feels faster and don't even get me started on the sound man, that alone is worth the money. My tuners printer was down when I picked my car up from the install but IIRC I made around 370 wheel? I have a 3600 stall and full-bolt on's as well, stock 3.23's
If you are in NY check out JTM in LI. They share the same building with ARH. I did a mild Brian Tooley cam and catted ARH LT's. along with TF heads and supporting components...Circle D 3200 stall....etc. and couldn't be happier with sound, performance and how close it feels to stock...except for a LOT more power!! And passed CT emissions no problem.
Most informative & helpful post in thread. Face palm.
I'm just kidding btw, but why not add some helpful insight for the OP while you're at it is all.
well i I didn’t want to add to his confusion. But I was in his shoes not long ago. I’ve got two examples I can share. It’s a story so bare with me.
First is i I had a 2000 5.3 Silverado. I wanted a cam that I could still tow a camper with and get good mileage still. I chose a Texas speed high lift 212/218 cam. Awesome results. Made a huge difference in power. Gained everywhere. Knowing what I know now, I probably would have went one step bigger.
Then em I got a 5.7 gto. I wanted something tame and quiet but still pull good, I didn’t want headers. I wanted to keep my cats. My first choice was like a 218/224 but I was talked into a 227/234. I knew better but did it anyways. It ended up being a little bigger than I like for a daily driver but I was able to tune it to be very tame and drive almost like stock. But the fuel mileage is not so great when I get stuck in traffic. Plus I put a turbo on it so I need to put a cam more suited to a turbo. But if I had to do it again, I’d go smaller anyways.
Also so I didn’t know that a 4l60 can’t turn or doesn’t like rpms. I should maybe not repeat that around mine. Because if my trans knew that he didn’t rpms then maybe he’d start giving me problems. I shake my head about all the false information posted here about that trans. Fact: my gto was shifted at 6500 when the Trans was all stock. No problem. When I pulled it out and rebuilt it, everything still looked perfect and it had 90k miles. I rebuilt it because I had it out to put a tank convertor in it before I put my cam. It’s out, I rebuild them, so I might as well. It now gets shifted at 7000-7100. I had a camaro that I shifted it at 7800. I do drive my stuff hard too.
So op, my answer to you, with experience in the matter, if I were you I’d find something like 216-218 on the intake side, and 224-226 on exhaust side on a 114 (a 112 will be fine too) lobe separation. That will be tame and will run it’s *** off and not get you in trouble. It’ll be worth the swap too.
Sidenote. I didn’t change lifters, timing chain or oil pump on either vehicle. The truck had 180k miles. The car had around 90k. No problem with either. You can if it makes you feel better, but I didn’t. Can you get away with it? Yes. Should you? I personally wouldn’t think twice about it if you don’t have lifter tapping noises, oil pressure problems or excess chain slack. Take my experience how you like. That’s all it is tho, personal but actual experience.
Here's my before-after dyno curve of my car from bone stock to TSP 228R cam, LTs, catted Y, catback, and tune. It drives like stock with a circle-D 3200rpm stall, although it doesn't sound like stock. For what it's worth, and I realize it's a sample set of one, but my 4L60E bit the dust at 49,000 miles - about 500 miles and 2 months after the cam install.
08-06-2018, 06:07 PM
