Complete newbie
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Teching In
Joined: Jan 2019
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Complete newbie Gotta line on a good 100k mile 6.0l
Wanted to do a little FRESHENER to it. I have been doing some searching and maybe I'm just too much of a rookie. But I need some advice on where to start? and what I need to lookout for? Any common probs that I need to solve now rather than later? I got computer and all. Looking for streetable 400-600hp. I have th400 trans not the 4l80...
thirdgen.org sent me here...
I am a sponge TEACH ME😅
Wanted to do a little FRESHENER to it. I have been doing some searching and maybe I'm just too much of a rookie. But I need some advice on where to start? and what I need to lookout for? Any common probs that I need to solve now rather than later? I got computer and all. Looking for streetable 400-600hp. I have th400 trans not the 4l80...
thirdgen.org sent me here...
I am a sponge TEACH ME😅
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 1,250
Likes: 239
From: Dade City, Fl.
100,000 miles ? It's just broken in... Since you have the computer I would use a 4l80e. You will be glad you did after you start cruizing around some. The OD will be easier on your wallet saving gas. milled 243 heads, camshaft, headers, and tune, you are within your HP quest.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2019
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🤯🤯🤯🤔🤔🤔🤔seems like I need to up my goals. And find me a 4l80.
Right now I have a 78c10 with a straight up old skool 454/400 combo. My 91 camaro has a rebuilt 357/700r combo. The 6.0l is $800 so I didn't think to hard before I said I'd buy it. I have no idea where to put it but that'll come later. Right now I wanted some direction as far as FRESHENing it up...
Thx a bunch and if anyone has any other advice please let me know
Oh and zero boost!!!!!
Right now I have a 78c10 with a straight up old skool 454/400 combo. My 91 camaro has a rebuilt 357/700r combo. The 6.0l is $800 so I didn't think to hard before I said I'd buy it. I have no idea where to put it but that'll come later. Right now I wanted some direction as far as FRESHENing it up...
Thx a bunch and if anyone has any other advice please let me know
Oh and zero boost!!!!!
TECH Resident
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 967
Likes: 53
From: Winter Haven FL
New gaskets, ls2 timing chain, ls7 lifters and trays and the melling high pressure oil pump are the standard answer for people who have the engine on a stand and are thinking of doing some work. It probably doesn't need any of those, but it's easier to do it all before it goes into the vehicle. It's also the perfect time for a cam swap and any head work you may want to do although that makes the cost jump quickly.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2019
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I definitely would like more than stock power
cam, open up heads, timing chain, LS7 lifters, oil pump, water pump, of course gaskets, 90mm throttle body, ls6 intake,
Timing chain tensioners? Valve springs? Rocker arms? Upgraded injectors? Anything else? This will be a slow process but the advice yall give me is appreciated and will be used...
Frickin trannies are expensive!!!
cam, open up heads, timing chain, LS7 lifters, oil pump, water pump, of course gaskets, 90mm throttle body, ls6 intake,
Timing chain tensioners? Valve springs? Rocker arms? Upgraded injectors? Anything else? This will be a slow process but the advice yall give me is appreciated and will be used...
Frickin trannies are expensive!!!
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 1,250
Likes: 239
From: Dade City, Fl.
I 'm assuming this is an iron truck block. this is what I used on my engine since there is no provision to bolt on a chain damper https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-k30675600 Use the factory rocker arms,just do the trunion bushings. Valve springs will be dependent on what camshaft you go with. Fuel injectors will depend on the max HP of the engine.Probably something along the lines of 36 to 42 lb/hr injectors
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Teching In
Joined: Jan 2019
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Took off 1 valve cover seen a dark brown reddish tint to everything. No sludge... turned engine by hand... had compression and lots of it, but no starter so I could not connect battery and do comp test. Turned motor over (upside down) but before I did I looked down intake side of head ports and did not see rust... after upside down. I took off oil pan oil pickup tube screen (clean) dark brown reddish...
windage tray -same... looked in bottoms of pistons, crank, could see cam, cylinder walls (hasch marks), rods, mains, turned by hand (smooth) did not see any broken anything...all brown reddish.
looked inside of oil pan seen a little sludge in corners of pan, a little carbon on the underside of pistons and in very bottom of oil pan... is it true that when u change your oil u never truly get ALL the old oil out? Yes I'm talking ALL... if it's TRUE then that would explain the little I seen. When we turned the engine over the oil that came out the top looked like oil... not milk. I did not get a chance to take heads off but I think we're in good shape although I still want to see. But if a piston is broke replacing the pistons and rings aren't that big a hassle as long as the block isn't scarred right?
while turning motor by hand there were no audible scrapes, squeaking, or anything.. I dont know it all but I checked it out the best I know how minus pulling heads
ps. He did not deny me the chance to pull them I just ran out of time because I had to be somewhere...
windage tray -same... looked in bottoms of pistons, crank, could see cam, cylinder walls (hasch marks), rods, mains, turned by hand (smooth) did not see any broken anything...all brown reddish.
looked inside of oil pan seen a little sludge in corners of pan, a little carbon on the underside of pistons and in very bottom of oil pan... is it true that when u change your oil u never truly get ALL the old oil out? Yes I'm talking ALL... if it's TRUE then that would explain the little I seen. When we turned the engine over the oil that came out the top looked like oil... not milk. I did not get a chance to take heads off but I think we're in good shape although I still want to see. But if a piston is broke replacing the pistons and rings aren't that big a hassle as long as the block isn't scarred right?
while turning motor by hand there were no audible scrapes, squeaking, or anything.. I dont know it all but I checked it out the best I know how minus pulling heads
ps. He did not deny me the chance to pull them I just ran out of time because I had to be somewhere...
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2019
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Made the agreement to buy... 135k miles from what I was told... unfortunately I was wrong it has everything but the computer... so do I buy a pcm or go carb? Part of me wants to go carb bC of less wiring. A lot less electrical work... but would that hurt my bottom line? Looking as close to 600hp and tq as I can get... natural aspiration **no boost**
Thx fellas, honestly I can handle having less than 600 at the fly wheel. I just want as close to that as possible and streetable. Of course my name is budget builder sooooooo u know what that means... this endeavor is not on a time table I'm just getting ideas. When I built my 357 it was the first thing I had ever built and I jumped in and started buying parts... of course i mismatched a lot with this one I'm planning better. Thx
Thx fellas, honestly I can handle having less than 600 at the fly wheel. I just want as close to that as possible and streetable. Of course my name is budget builder sooooooo u know what that means... this endeavor is not on a time table I'm just getting ideas. When I built my 357 it was the first thing I had ever built and I jumped in and started buying parts... of course i mismatched a lot with this one I'm planning better. Thx
Restricted User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 7,192
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From: Ohio
Made the agreement to buy... 135k miles from what I was told... unfortunately I was wrong it has everything but the computer... so do I buy a pcm or go carb? Part of me wants to go carb bC of less wiring. A lot less electrical work... but would that hurt my bottom line? Looking as close to 600hp and tq as I can get... natural aspiration **no boost**
Thx fellas, honestly I can handle having less than 600 at the fly wheel. I just want as close to that as possible and streetable. Of course my name is budget builder sooooooo u know what that means... this endeavor is not on a time table I'm just getting ideas. When I built my 357 it was the first thing I had ever built and I jumped in and started buying parts... of course i mismatched a lot with this one I'm planning better. Thx
Thx fellas, honestly I can handle having less than 600 at the fly wheel. I just want as close to that as possible and streetable. Of course my name is budget builder sooooooo u know what that means... this endeavor is not on a time table I'm just getting ideas. When I built my 357 it was the first thing I had ever built and I jumped in and started buying parts... of course i mismatched a lot with this one I'm planning better. Thx
600 hp/tq probably won't happen, at least not the torque figure. Maybe 600/500 at the flywheel. That's somewhere around 500 at the wheels with a manual trans.
Here is a good example of what you'll need. This is a 500whp 6.0.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...500-453-a.html
You might be able to skip the $2500 heads and $1500 intake/throttle and go with an LS3 top end for about $1000, but you'll be down on compression quite a bit and miss out on 50 horsepower and torque compared to the TrickFlow 225/102 combo.
I would expect to make 500 at the flywheel max on stock cathedral castings and LS6 intake. That's going to be with the big headers/cam that you already need.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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ou could literally piece together a $1500 turbo setup that would make more than 600 horsepower on a stock cam and drive stock.
Restricted User
Joined: Mar 2014
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From: Ohio
That is less than the price of aftermarket heads. It sounds like you have a lot of research ahead of you.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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It sounds like you have a lot of research ahead of you
. "My ppl perish for a lack of knowledge... "I refuse to be one of those ppl. I WILL learn what is needed and appreciate u and everyone that is willing to teach me what I need to know. Sounds like turbo is the way to go. I LOVE the seat of the pants feel of just raw power and torque at launch. Oh oh oh #tim"thetoolmantaylor"voice
if I could put a v8 on my gokart I would. Hahaha
I thought turbos were expensive if not then it's on esp. If I can do this for less than $5000. I didn't plan on more than 6k rpm and it sounds like (NA) will only happen above 7krpm. That requires just about a bottom end rebuild or a stroke and of course that's more money. I will have motor in my personal possession before this weekend. And it is tax season $$$. So, I will have to take my time but LETS DO THIS!!!
Restricted User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 7,192
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From: Ohio
The go-to turbo for now is the On3 or VSRacing 7875. Its sized decently well for a V8 and isn't physically large so it fits almost anywhere.
Its certainly not the best turbo (or even the best for the price), but its a good all-around choice for someone taking their first dive into turbo setups.
It'll make 600 at the flywheel on a completely stock untouched 100k mile 6.0 on pump gas and last forever, and its only $400.
Its certainly not the best turbo (or even the best for the price), but its a good all-around choice for someone taking their first dive into turbo setups.
It'll make 600 at the flywheel on a completely stock untouched 100k mile 6.0 on pump gas and last forever, and its only $400.
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LS swap kits what parts do I need for my 1987 cutlass to swap out my 350 to a LS motor a/c and heat and a digital cluster dash? I see there are kits out there but I don't know which one is best and they seem very expensive. I found this digital cluster INTELLITRONIX from off the web but I don't now if its any good so please help w/ any thread links and advice if possible.
Respectfully,
Duckett
Respectfully,
Duckett