OK...I'm in the point of my build where I have to make decisions about drive train. Frankly, paint and body cost way more than I'd intended, so am looking at choices for motor and or trans. I'd intended all along to go gen1 sbc or mark IV, but...a bit wary of the weight of the mark iv, and getting the power levels I want out of a sbc will require aftermarket heads for sure, and block to be safe. So, starting thinking LS because the factory block and head castings will support the power I'm looking for NA. As a yardstick, I'm looking to put a 3,600 lb car with driver to about a 115-120 MPH in the quarter. I'm using MPH rather than ET, because the car won't be a dedicated drag chassis, so ET's become pointless to measure HP at that point. So call it 470 hp at the crank, or about 420 to the wheel.

I've always admired the LS (have had a few), but didn't really consider it a choice for this project (by virtue of how they look and sound, as silly as that seems) until a buddy of mine offered up an L33 core at a good price. Can a 5.3 motor make this sort of power and still get out of its own way below 3500rpm? Will it pull an overdrive manuaI without a torque converter to let it slip a bit? know it can make the number, but will it pull decently down low? I would like to use stock castings, but I'm willing to have them worked on. Would I be well served by taking the bore out enough to use 5.7 pistons? I ask that because 470 hp puts specific output of a 326 ci motor at over 1.4hp per CI. The 20 cubic inches Id gain from boring it (assuming the block checks out) would help with that a bit.

The attraction of the LS to me is superior factory castings and an available aluminum block. So the L33 might just do the trick. I know an LQ4/9 would make the number, but if there are aluminum blocks are available, Id rather go that way (I know you can make up the weight in a straight line by more power, but you will always be stopping and turning with an extra 100 lbs over the front wheels). I will also have to budget some money to tweak the motor cosmetically (despite all their virtue, they are NOT a good looking motor in stock form!)

Would I be better served to just get an LS3 (especially since I could get a TR6060 with it)? It's more money, and in one chunk, but the power goal should be doable with a cam swap, correct?

Soooo...after all this rambling, it boils down to this: Can I get there with the L33's stock block and (worked) heads and how best to approach it? Will it be any good across the RPM range if I do? Or will I be money ahead if I just start with an LS3?

If you've made it thru all this, thanks for your patience. I appreciate any advice you might have

 

A stock L33 stripped down will make almost 400 horsepower on an engine dyno.
We made 392 on the engine dyno a couple of weeks ago with one with an LS6 cam and intake, but were still using the belt driven water pump and it had a few more horsepower left in the timing.

A decent cam would have gotten 450.

 

So would you guess that with cam and head work it would trap about 115 or better? I know that number seems arbitrary, but I guess it’s a bench mark for me and my own perceptions about what is a quick street car.
Would you recommend boring it to 3.898? And/or making a 383 out of it? The added stroke, especially, starts the costs creeping up. The project needs everything, drive train wise, and I’m trying to keep an open mind on options. Thanks for the reply!

 

L33s are boost engines. In my mind, stroking one is absurd considering a turbo setup is the same cost as a stroker kit and will make 2x the power.
I wouldn't bore one either unless it was necessary.

A decent cam and intake will trap 115 easy. No head work required.

 

Point taken with respect to stroking it not worth the money. And a turbo is a thought that does come and go for me. This may sound dumb, the two things holding me back are more power than I can use and sound.
By more power than I can use, I mean with the suspension and tire I’m willing to do, a boosted 5.3 could very quickly become undrivable with a manual trans. I suppose if I’m disciplined in the build I could make something moderate with great response as opposed to outright power.
The sound part is subjective, I know, and must sound absurd to anyone with a more “power first” build, but it does factor.
wheels turning with thoughts of a turbo build here now..

 

An L33 can take pretty much anything that a street turbo setup can throw at it in 100% stock form.

You can still reach your goals with just a cam and intake.
I would say you could do it without the intake easily, but it sounds you have to change it anyway for either looks/fitment so you might as well go for an upgrade.

 

You mention 3600#'s, manual trans, 115 mph trap speed...What car/chassis are you talking about specifically? There are a ton of different variables between chassis's .

I'm with Joe, that 5.3 will get you where you want to be, Just need a little more info..

 

I recently saw the best set of tail lights I've ever seen on Jason firebird WS6. Those tail lights are stupid sick. Does anyone know where I can get a set?

 

It’s a 57 Chevy 150. Always some variables, but 3600 lbs with me in it is a fair guess. 3400 or so w/o driver...a bit less if I have an aluminum block.
The chassis will not be maximized for drag racing, though I may put drag radials on it at some point for giggles. I used trap speed as my power goal because I think Dyno numbers, while useful, are too often used to compare car A vs car B, rather than for comparing and quantifying the tuning process of a single car.

 

...also, especially since I’m looking at a small bore motor, I’m not afraid of gear. It will have at least a .68 OD, so with a 27” tire that would put out about 2600 rpm at 75 mph. I have a good idea what my plans are for suspension, but at this point, the only firm decision I have on the drive train is manual trans.

 

Joenova knows his stuff about his turbos and boost but if you like me.... Im kinda slow like simplicity and all motor builds. Your 5.3 can reach 500 horse with the right parts selection. Hope this pic helps.

 

Solid formula.
I think that having the stock 243/799 heads CNC ported would yield similar results. CNC stockers will flow ~15 CFM more but aren't as good of a head. A little bump in cam size should fix that.
Since the L33 already has flat tops, should be a simple H/C/I setup.

 

NICE! That little sucker is buzzing along pretty good! The traditionalist in my likes the idea of a 327 (ish) CI motor in a tri five

 

It is easily obtainable, cam selection will be key and advancing the camshaft 4° will bring the torque in roughly 400rpm sooner.

As for bore, you will have 9/10 guys say the same thing. Boring an engine will only net you maybe 5hp so its not worth it, save the block in case you need to bore later. In my experience I bore all of my iron block 5.3l out .130 thou. Seeing you have your eyes set on a Aluminum block you can only go .010 over before needing a re-sleeve. With the iron blocks punched out to 3.93 bore with same mod for mod with a factory bore it's incomparable. The SOTP power with a big bore 5.3l (iron block) is far superior to factory bore.

If you need any tech data or advice on how to get to your desired end goal, PM me. I rather not have a hand full of "forum techs" contest everything posted.

 

Agreed that .10, it’s not worth it. That’s less than 5ci. My intent was to have the block sonic checked. If all is good, it’s my understanding that the l33 has the same outside circumference as an LS1, and that a .118 over bite would be possible. This changes the equation some what.