Yesterday I changed the PCV valve with no horror stories to report. I put a hose clamp on the boot and I replaced the hose going from the TB side to the nipple on the PCV valve and hose clamped em. I decided to run some Seafoam through the PCV hose for “good measure.” I think maybe it helps a little but that’ll prob the the one and only time. Today I decided to change the oil and Walmart didn’t have my brand & type of choice in 5w30 in the qt size for the .5 of a qt to make the 5.5, so I went with a 5 qt jug of 5w30 and half a quart of 10w40. Scandalous I know. At any rate it’s idling smooth and it’s shifting real well. I haven’t had the P0420 come back on yet knock on wood. When I was changing the oil I looked at the torque arm bushing and it was crap. What’s worse is I think the reason it went bad is because transmission fluid is leaking on it. It’s leaking at the seal where the driveshaft goes in. So, it looks like it’s leaking on both ends. The upside I guess is that I’m pretty sure that the TQ arm is what I hear knocking and not the differential making noises. However it still has bearing noise so that needs to be addressed. I’m waiting on the poor man’s yearly bonus for that one, aka tax returns. The transmission mount looked ok but I already ordered one so I’m still gonna have them change it out along with the TQ arm bushing when I take it in for the rear.

 

Good luck with that, lets us know how it goes

 

How big of a pain are the rear LCA’s to change on your back with a jack & jackstands? The final torque should be done with the wheels on the ground correct?

 

I've never done it that way personally, I've always used ramps.

 

You backed up on ramps? You didn’t have the rear suspension hanging free?

 

Saw this guy's vid first on how to do it. I haven't done mine yet:
Then greenlight who is also on this site somewhere but his car is lowered:

 

To answer your questions in order: Yes, and No. I've never had any issues doing it this way.

 

Cool deal. Thanks.

 

Well I’m taking ‘er in on Tuesday, I hope they don’t rip me a new one. I just ordered Ratech’s solid spacer & shim kit and I hope it makes it here in time. Surely so. I think I’m gonna tackle the rear shocks & LCA’s this weekend. I’m wondering if I should do both shocks first and then the arms (or vise versa) or to do say the left shock and left arm and then the other side. The part I dread most kinda is removing the trunk panels because they’re never quite the same again as factory fit.
As far as the shop goes I’m hoping to get out of there with only new seals/bearings and the trans mount & tq am bushing replaced. Surely/hopefully the axles, gears, etc are still ok.

 

For the shocks? I seem to remember there being factory cuts/provisions in the carpet, behind the rear seat backs, for this.

 

Silly question of the evening, but when one replaces the rear seal on the A4 does it lose the bulk of the fluid that’s in the pan?

 

I got both rear shocks on but only managed to get one rear control arm on. It came off easy and the chassis side was fairly easy to line up, but not the axle side. I was on ramps and I had to get a scissor jack to press the axle side into the saddle. Even then I had a hard time getting it lined up enough to get the bolt through. It was pretty terrible. Hope the other goes easier tomorrow. Prob not.

 

Got her in the rear end shop. Hope they don’t rip me a new one.

 

Always nerve racking taking them in when it's your car and wallet. What are you having done?

 

Yeah it is.. The pinion seal is leaking and I think I’m hearing some axle bearing noises. I hope I don’t end up with a new rear end and or a new seal and still a loud rear.

 

It's a nerve racking dice 🎲 roll. Hopefully, comes up boxcars instead of snake 🐍 👀 eye's.

My 91 RS had 380,000 miles on the stock 10 bolt rear end when the pinion seal started to leak. Shop replaced it, tighten the crush collar down by hand and no issues. Was reasonable like $150

Different shop did my 91 RS Convertible's pinion seal (108,000 miles) tighten the crush collar down by impact too far putting everything in a bind. Rear shredded about 10 miles after pinion seal was replaced. Sounded like a grinder. Cost $750 to fix mechanics incompetent. Had to have all rear end bearings replaced. Shop didn't stand behind their work etc had been customer for many years.

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If rear wheel bearings are required, they might (50/50) suggest new axles because the race on the axles is worn. Cheater axle bearings are available for GM 10- bolts. Moves bearing to different part of race. I've had cheaters bearings used three times and never had to replace axles on a 10-bolt. Cheater rear axle bearings are very inexpensive vs new axles. They also work perfectly well have ran 200,000+ miles on rear cheater bearings in the old 10 bolt.

 

Not too long ago I had the rear rebuilt in my Mustang by a guy that didn’t get the preload right, so another shop had to replace pretty much everything the one guy installed. It stunk. Hopefully we’ll get out of this one fairly painless.

 

Pinion seal leakage is so common on these (and can happen again for that matter) that I honestly wouldn't even risk opening the can of worms of replacing it unless the leak was really bad. A little weeping usually looks worse than it is; as long as fluid level stays right near the bottom of the fill plug (which is pretty easy to monitor on a car that isn't a daily driver) I wouldn't mess with it if nothing else is wrong...unless maybe I knew a really competent shop that was highly experienced with doing this job perfectly. But, with the noise issue also being present it probably makes sense to get the whole thing checked out in your case.

 

The transmission seal (tail shaft) is also leaking, I’m guessing maybe from sitting so long maybe. There was ATF on the torque arm bushing so I’m guessing that’s what ate it up.
I went at by at lunch and they hadn’t started on it yet but said they would today. However when I went by after work it was still sitting in the same spot so I didn’t stop. Thinking back I should’ve though and asked them if they could park it inside instead of having it sit out front on MLK street…

 

It set and set at the differential shop and it started getting weird so I brought it home.
The new rear control arms are on as well as a new tq arm bushing and trans mount. The control arms get an A+, no noticeable wheel hop. It’s also good to see that my differential appears to be working. I’m taking it to another drivetrain joint tomorrow. Hopefully it’ll go smoother.