skywarped

What are the things to watch out for? What are the major problems between the years? Is there a certain year to avoid? Also prices vary greatly among dealers even for simular equiped cars. Is this because there is some hidden problems? Or is it that the cars don't sell well. Any advice from real owners would be a plus.

I test drove a 2000 Z28 with 36,000 miles, it had the GU2 gears and was fully loaded. I floored the car from 55 and it downshifted to 2nd and shifted out above 90 mph into 3rd. There was some spark knock from the motor but it accelerated like hell. Is it normal for LS1 to spark knock? What's the best way to tell if a car has piston slap?

Any reason to avoid the early LS1 cars? Are there any buyers guides out for 4th gen F-Bodies? This one dealership has a Silver T/A (not WS6) A4/ and chrome 16" wheels with 55,600 miles. What's a good price for this car?

Will be paying cash, would like to spend less than $15,000 and stay under 50,000 miles. There are two Z28s at local new car dealerships for what seems like really good prices: One is a pewter 2001 Z28 A4 with 47,000 miles for $12,495 , and the other is a 2000 Black Z28 51,000 miles A4, with all options including black leather for $10,999.



Thanks

popocamaro2

iTrader: (14)

Im no doubt not an LS1 tech of any kind but I have always heard the 99`s were for some reason a little worse then the rest i know my friend has a 99 SS A4 and when i bought my 98 SS recently id guess from then till now he has never been able to beat me and driver skill for us is about the same. The best numbers he ever put up was 13.6. $15000 or less i would give them i got my SS for 15k last nov and it had 20k miles on it and its loaded with everthing but leather and chrome rims and was in gorgeous condition. If its a 01 or 02 for that mileage youd see it go around here for about 17k-18k. I know our chevy dealership here which usually has more outrageous prices then everywhere else was asking 18,900 recently for a 02 SS blk every option with 19k miles on it with a 6 spd i thought that was great. The 01 Z sounds like a good deal but its all about how you feel about mileage etc theres always people on here getting rid of one toy to get another and you see some mighty fine cars already tweaked out how you might want it for a good price and true they probably got on it but whos to say joe blow who use to own the ones at the deakership yor looking at didnt use it to tow a boat.

99-LS1-SS

As far as I know there aren't any major problems with any of the f-bodies. I have a 99 and I haven't had any problems out of it (knocking on wood). I love it. I think you will be happy with any of the LS1 cars. LS1's respond very well to mods.

unit213

My suggestion would be to buy an 01 or an 02 LS1 whether it be a Firebird or a Camaro. They both come with the LS6 manifold from the factory and they seem to run a bit harder. You'll know right from the jump if it has piston slap. It'll sound like a deisel until it warms up. I wouldn't worry about it even if it did slap a little. My LS1 was fine for 50K miles and it slapped pretty badly. I sprayed a 150 shot on it for a long time too...no problems.

Used LS1 fbodies are very affordable. The price variance basically is soley dependent on the dealer or person you buy it from. Mileage plays a big role as well.

Spark knock is not normal. Someone probably had 87 octane in it and it was hot outside causing it to detonate. Run some premium gas through it and I bet it would be fine. If not, strap it on the dyno and check the A/F ratio.

skywarped

Well I found a nice Navy Blue Metallic 2000 Z28 with 41,000 miles fully loaded with leather and T-tops but they are asking $16,999. I think that's rediculous. A Saturn dealer has a 2002 Black on Black leather T-Tops Z28 with 39,000 miles and they are only asking $16,999.

What would you guys pay for the Blue 2000 Z28?

Thanks

juiced92

i have a 92 camaro RS but iam putting in a LS1 crate motor is there anything i will have to change to the car/motor or what are the things to look out for? thanks for the help!!!!!!!!

skywarped

You guys are really helping me out. I love the internet, it's like talking to hunderds of people who own the car you have or want. Who would know these cars better.

How much stiffer is the SS/WS6 suspension over the Z28 or T/A? The Z28 I drove rode really well and suprised me with how well it soaked up some rough roads. The chassis seems very stiff for a hatchback. The pass side t-top had a a slight rattle in the area where the latch was. I don't know if that's normally a problem or not. Everybody is always concerned about leaks, do these things rattle?

popocamaro2

iTrader: (14)

to me they both handle the same cant feel much if any difference , the Z though does make more squeaks . As far as leaks go every t-top car ive owned leaks some even when i bought the Z new it was nt long before it leaked a little its usually not but a drop or two just take care of your weather stripping either way to most people the few drops means nothing when they can take off the tops and cruise

distortion_69

iTrader: (20)

Skywarped: Yes, they rattle with some milage from the factory. However, the addition of a set of subframe connectors welded to connect the rear to the front of the car adds alot of strength to the chassis. There are no negatives to running these. The car will do everything from straight line to cornering better. Less rattles, etc.

Few things to look for..

1. Watch out for dimples in the top of the 1/4 panel, close to where it meets the hatch.. thats a good sign of abuse.
2. Be sure to get the a4 nice and hot and make sure it ain't going to do no slipping.
3. Look for excessive gaps in the hood, front bumper cover, etc. These are also signs of a wrecked car.
4. The fenders will often be misaligned from improper jacking. This is a good bargaining point.
5. Make sure all the little stuff works, as it adds up.. Cruise Control, A/C, Heater, headlights, taillights, stereo, etc.

Theres tons more.. but those are just a few.

A 2001-2002 model would be the preferred choice.. as they came with better rod bolts, intake, heads, and on occasion blocks

Good Luck,
Josh

Gloveperson

iTrader: (9)

Before you buy the Navy Blue, look at it in the bright sun light with the sun shining on it. There is a purple metalic coat on top of it so it turns a tad bit violet. I didn't know it when I first bought my car and I happen to love it, but I would be pissed if I hated it. And btw, that 02 Z28 is a really good deal. The 2000 should be about 14,999. I would try to get that or a little lower by playing the "its going to be winter soon" card.

-Todd

skywarped

Yeah I need to go look at the Blue one during the day. That particular dealer always seems to price their cars high. I am thinking around $12,000 would be about right for the Blue 2000 Z28. I know that if I would have offered $12,000 for the white 2000 Z28 it would probably be mine. they seemed eager to deal and they were asking $13,999. If I went and offered $16,000 for that Black 2002 Z28 it would be mine I beleive. When you factor in the used car loan % and high insurance rates of these cars, it makes them hard to move off the lots. I checked with my insurance and a 2000 SS costs the same rate as a 2004 Mustang GT. I find that hard to beleive, but that's what they told me. I was looking at a 2004 GT with 12,000 miles on it for $18,700, that's why I checked.

TRAGIC

Don't tell me you were looking at a mustang, especially a GT.

skywarped

Look is the correct term. It's always a good idea to check out the competition.

I might just have to wait a month for the right deal on a F-body. Maybe the combination of 05 cars on the lot and colder weather will wake the salesman up.