firechicken2k

hey.

so, i'm about to start moding my 2k trans am. however, keeping in mind that i want everything to be done and not sacrifice a yota of reliability from the car. here's my take on the moding.. please inform me of any mistakes in my plan.

stage 1
chassis:
BMR subframe connectors (tubular. i think they are strong enough, and will not reduce ground clearance, like the boxed style does)
BMR shock tower brace
suspension:
Koni front Bilstein back
BMR panhard rod (non adjustable)
BMR sway bars (mmm.. increase cornering abilities..)
BMR torque arm (non adjustable. supposedly good enough for 11.0 runs, and thats good enough for me)
stage 2
rearend
ford 9" with 3.50 gears (dont want to sacrifice topend for lowend...3.50 should be fine imo)
Moser 3" x 0.83" driveshaft
exhaust:
hooker catback
headers:
kooks
cam:
??? undecided and open to suggestions. something that will yield decent gains but won't lope as hell at idle, and isn't going to make the car drink gas.
stage 3:
i'll worry about that when i get there.. nos, supercharger, turbo, whatever.. waaay to early to think about that.

so. comments? suggestions?

Silvrshark

All of what you mentioned sounds good. I went with the MTI air lid first, then FRA(free ram air) so it could breath better, then catback exhaust, then BMR boxed subframe connectors, and driveshaft loop. Have more mods on the way. Did the exhaust before the SFC's do to shipping. The subframe connectors really put the power to the rear wheels. Going to the strip tommorrow to see what it will do. Problem is Hookin' up, street tires. Sounds like you have $$$ to spend so go for it!!

firechicken2k

what does the driveshaft loop do, exactly?

as for $$$ .. ehhh.. it helps having a wife thats also interested in cars hopefully ill be able to complete my 'stage 1' before new years

2000TransAm24

iTrader: (2)

Drive shaft safety loop holds the driveshaft in place incase it ever breaks so it doesn't tear the under side of your car to shreds. The BMR boxed SFC's don't reduce the ground clearance by any significant amount.

exstanger

iTrader: (4)

They also keep the car from catapaulting if should come loose at high speeds. Mods sound good by the way. Good luck.

WS-Sick

Just curious. Why did you decide to go with 3.50 gears? If you have a M6, I don't think you would notice any difference. If you go with 3.73's then you should feel the difference without sacraficing your top end. Looks like you have a good future in store for your car though.

firechicken2k

i've an a4, 2.73
i'd actually choose to stay with 2.73 if it was available on ford 9" ...
the reason i stated above i don't want to sacrifice my topend acceleration for lowend acceleration
may be i'm sick and twisted.. but i don't like to 'trade'. i try to only modify in a way that *adds* something, without decreasing something else

5POINT7

Your list sounds good. You must have some serious will power to hold out on any performance mods for so long. You won't actually add horsepower until late in Stage II. Good luck doing that. I think once you realize that stock LS1's aren't fast you will do the headers and cam sooner.

firechicken2k

i realize they aren't fast. they are just quick. and it won't be a problem for me to hold out on any performance mods until i have, what i think, a solid 'base'.

Mooobunnny

iTrader: (1)

3.50 gears would be very nice, that it what I would go with (instead of my 3.73's) If I had a 9 inch.


Chris