Have about 300-400 bucks to spend on a mod.
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Have about 300-400 bucks to spend on a mod.
Any suggestions?? Cam or gears or ET Streets or Torque Arm or Pacesetter LTs? If I get gears I know I'd have to recalibrate the Speedo, but would I be hitting the rev limiter if I go WOT without the tune? With a cam, can I go without a tune?
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i personally would tune a cam esp. in an a4 car. you could get away with it in a m6 car.the et streets id say no cuz if u hook on them really well then u will be looking for a new rear end. if u go with tires id say the nitto's. as far as lt's go save ur money for some better ones like kooks! maybe go with a ported throttle body or a lid and a 85 mm maf? just thought id throw my .02 in.
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Coated Pacesetters w/y-pipe is the way to go, but 2_wacko brought up a good point. Where's the lid? LOL. You won't break the rear as quick on an A4 as you would with the M6, its a softer launch. Still don't need ET Streets tho I wouldn't think.
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You can get gears which would be good with that converter. Gears alone will cost you around $300 for the gears and bearings you can find complete kits. I got my 4.10's done in my 10 bolt when I had it for like $100 by a buddy at my Dealer and he replaced my posi too. The going rate around here for a gear install is about $150
You can also get a cam, I have one that required little to no tuning seeing it's small and it's pretty much idle perfect in an A4, mine's an M6 and you don't hear it at all, and my idle is perfect. We did some tuning w/ LS1 edit because I have capability to do so. My specs are in my sig, but the cam is an Xtreme cam by Comp with a high lift and 114 LSA but it gave me good ET and MPH over gears and exhaust!
As for other mods for that much money, the more you mod the more they begin to cost! The dealer can recalibrate your gears for you as well with their Tech II tool. I used a predator to do mine, but now we never use it because we have edit at home.
Gears would be good for you, a small cam will cost over $400 unless you find a used one and someone has to install it unless you can do it? And then you need springs, pushrods, making the cam cost over $650 before install.
You will see the benefit from gears without a doubt. MT drag radials can fall under $400 mounted but I will say this they are not a daily tire and they were the rave here in FL at the World Fastest Streetcar event, some guys cut 1.3 60' on them.
BTW, I wouldn't do a cam before headers that's a big waste, get headers first, then do gears then add a cam. That's the route I went but I did add a 12 bolt rear before my cam because I travel to tracks within FL.
Hope this helps
Claire
You can also get a cam, I have one that required little to no tuning seeing it's small and it's pretty much idle perfect in an A4, mine's an M6 and you don't hear it at all, and my idle is perfect. We did some tuning w/ LS1 edit because I have capability to do so. My specs are in my sig, but the cam is an Xtreme cam by Comp with a high lift and 114 LSA but it gave me good ET and MPH over gears and exhaust!
As for other mods for that much money, the more you mod the more they begin to cost! The dealer can recalibrate your gears for you as well with their Tech II tool. I used a predator to do mine, but now we never use it because we have edit at home.
Gears would be good for you, a small cam will cost over $400 unless you find a used one and someone has to install it unless you can do it? And then you need springs, pushrods, making the cam cost over $650 before install.
You will see the benefit from gears without a doubt. MT drag radials can fall under $400 mounted but I will say this they are not a daily tire and they were the rave here in FL at the World Fastest Streetcar event, some guys cut 1.3 60' on them.
BTW, I wouldn't do a cam before headers that's a big waste, get headers first, then do gears then add a cam. That's the route I went but I did add a 12 bolt rear before my cam because I travel to tracks within FL.
Hope this helps
Claire
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Cam no you would need a tune
Gears you dont need because you have the stall(unless you have 2.73.)
Lt's would pick you up a good pit.
Prabably wont break the rear with m/t's, If you are spinning bad these are a must. (these did wonders for me especially after the lt's.)
torque arm wont help you like some of these others will.
Nitrous is definetly the best bang for the buck. Just be safe.
Do you have any times right now? Do you spin a lot?
Gears you dont need because you have the stall(unless you have 2.73.)
Lt's would pick you up a good pit.
Prabably wont break the rear with m/t's, If you are spinning bad these are a must. (these did wonders for me especially after the lt's.)
torque arm wont help you like some of these others will.
Nitrous is definetly the best bang for the buck. Just be safe.
Do you have any times right now? Do you spin a lot?
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If you already have the stall then get headers. One of the most expensive boltons. If u don't and later on u want to get them, but u don't have enough money u will be mad at yourself. all other bolt ons should be a little less expensive
#13
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Originally Posted by shaulinmathvader
If you already have the stall then get headers. One of the most expensive boltons. If u don't and later on u want to get them, but u don't have enough money u will be mad at yourself. all other bolt ons should be a little less expensive
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Before the stall, my best was 13.6@105 under A LOT of humidity and about 85 degree weather. With the stall my best was 13.5@104 under the same conditions spinning all through 1st. And yes I have 2.73s. My uncle gave me a set of 3.42s, but I was told I have to buy a spacer or even get the entire unit (which cost 200 bucks) because the spacer gets loose or something like that. I'm getting some slightly used M/T et streets for about 200 bucks. But I really want to put in those gears. I have about 1000 dollars saved but I don't want to blow all my wad. I'm not working so I need more than half of that money for my "just incase" ****. I'm going to wait on headers because I don't want to get Pacesetters. I'd rather do it right the 1st time and get some Kooks. And I don't want to go the nitrous way, I want to keep this car N/A. Keep'em coming guys, thanks a lot.
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you might think about getting some sub-frame connectors. With that higher stall your going to be transferring more twist to your chasis. Sub-frames are only 200 bucks, but you will need to get them welded in. These will not only improve your cars strength and rigidity, but you should get a little better handling as well.
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Yea for $300-400 right now I'd wait on the parts you listed. Gears are the only reasonable ones, but your stall negates that.
I'd say a used Nitrous kit or other suspension mods.
Get new LCA's and Sub-frames, and maybe a Pan-Hard rod. Look at UMI Performance. Really good Prices. They List LCA's for $95, Sub-Frames for $139, and
Panhard Rods for either $100-70.
I'd say a used Nitrous kit or other suspension mods.
Get new LCA's and Sub-frames, and maybe a Pan-Hard rod. Look at UMI Performance. Really good Prices. They List LCA's for $95, Sub-Frames for $139, and
Panhard Rods for either $100-70.
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i personally think you/everybody is WAY off! i have like the exact setup as you, w/ the nitto's and i just got hp tuners. i think you should do the same and get some type of tuning software (hp tuners is SICK, ls1 edit im guessing is just as good but harder to use yourself so i went the hp tuners route- also ls1edit has no scanner so you have to buy that extra...).
now if i want to get the headers/cam and valvetrain/ gears i can do so without worrying about having somebody re-calibrate my car for me- i can do it all myself! i also have 3.42's sitting in my garadge, which will go on my car soon.
im giving a vote for hptuners- wait a week (it is 500$ and you said you have 400$) and get hptuners. you are gonna need it anyway, or have somebody else tune your car for alot of $ and it may not even be a good tune.
now if i want to get the headers/cam and valvetrain/ gears i can do so without worrying about having somebody re-calibrate my car for me- i can do it all myself! i also have 3.42's sitting in my garadge, which will go on my car soon.
im giving a vote for hptuners- wait a week (it is 500$ and you said you have 400$) and get hptuners. you are gonna need it anyway, or have somebody else tune your car for alot of $ and it may not even be a good tune.
#20
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Originally Posted by sleeperstyle
i personally think you/everybody is WAY off! i have like the exact setup as you, w/ the nitto's and i just got hp tuners. i think you should do the same and get some type of tuning software (hp tuners is SICK, ls1 edit im guessing is just as good but harder to use yourself so i went the hp tuners route- also ls1edit has no scanner so you have to buy that extra...).