Installing Headers
Installing Headers I'm putting some Pacesetter headers and TSP x-pipe on Sunday night. I have bought some block off plates for the AIR and EGR but I only have the AIR plates right now. It looks like the AIR tubes are connected to the stock manifolds, won't they not be there anymore after we remove the stock exhaust? Also, the EGR looks like it'll need two block off plates, I was under the impression it only needs one. These are off road headers and off road x-pipe.
Am I going to need these plates after I remove the stock manifolds? Do I only block off one part of the EGR? I'm guessing the intake part?
Thanks guys.
Am I going to need these plates after I remove the stock manifolds? Do I only block off one part of the EGR? I'm guessing the intake part?
Thanks guys.
if you bought "race ready" headers, you won't need the block off plates anymore for the AIR anymore. If you've already taken off the EGR, you won't need a block off plate for the EGR either, IIRC race headers dont have either EGR or AIR bungs welded on.....The EGR only needs to be blocked off at the intake if you are still using the LS1 intake. Your headers SHOULD have no provisions if you bought "race ready" headers......
If you bought regular headers however, there will be two AIR bungs(one on either side) for the AIR. There will also be a bung on the passenger side for the EGR to bolt up. so in total, if you bought a normal set of pacesetters, they will have 3 holes needed to be blocked off....plus a plate needed to block off the intake EGR hole........
Get all that?
If you bought regular headers however, there will be two AIR bungs(one on either side) for the AIR. There will also be a bung on the passenger side for the EGR to bolt up. so in total, if you bought a normal set of pacesetters, they will have 3 holes needed to be blocked off....plus a plate needed to block off the intake EGR hole........
Get all that?
HAHA! I've waited nearly a month on these block off plates and I don't even need them....damn it! And the worse thing is, the guy sent me the 2 AIR plates and not the EGR plate, which seems to be the only one I need. I got to looking at them two nights ago and started pondering why the hell I needed them if I was removing everything.
So all I need is the EGR block off plate to go on the intake? Could I install the race ready headers and leave the EGR on until I get the plate and then take it off? Or will I need to wait on the block off plate?
Thanks man.
So all I need is the EGR block off plate to go on the intake? Could I install the race ready headers and leave the EGR on until I get the plate and then take it off? Or will I need to wait on the block off plate?
Thanks man.
Originally Posted by john3daly
HAHA! I've waited nearly a month on these block off plates and I don't even need them....damn it! And the worse thing is, the guy sent me the 2 AIR plates and not the EGR plate, which seems to be the only one I need. I got to looking at them two nights ago and started pondering why the hell I needed them if I was removing everything.
So all I need is the EGR block off plate to go on the intake? Could I install the race ready headers and leave the EGR on until I get the plate and then take it off? Or will I need to wait on the block off plate?
Thanks man.
So all I need is the EGR block off plate to go on the intake? Could I install the race ready headers and leave the EGR on until I get the plate and then take it off? Or will I need to wait on the block off plate?
Thanks man.
You need a 3/8" freeze plug for the intake.
Originally Posted by john3daly
Ok...so I don't need a block off plate at all, not for anything? I can just go buy a plug and plug the intake with it?
Yep..
All you need is the plug since you bought race ready headers..
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If the price is right I'll buy your block off plates. I have some stainless steel in my garage that I was getting ready to cut and drill. I'd love to save the time. How much do you want for the plates? How many do you have?
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Verdad Gallardo Alrighty...so I got the headers and x-pipe on, also did the plugs and all. Car runs great and everytime I hear it I fall in love. Questions though. For one, we had a problem with the drivers side header, it fit into place and all without much problems, but the o2 sensor was hitting the shifter on the auto. So we had to grind down some of the bung on the header to fit the o2 in there. Finally got all that done then went to install the x-pipe. Well, TSP didn't send me anything to connect the hangers with, not a big problem though. The problem is this:
Needless to say, I'm not very happy with Pacesetter or TSP at the moment. The install looks great and went great except for the clearance of the o2 sensor and what you see in the pic. I can lay a 12 oz. can sideways and fit it under the tail pipe...barely. If the exhaust goes any higher, which would be maybe an inch at best, it'll be resting on the frame of the car. We also had to attach the hangers by drilling 4 holes through the floorpan.
Is this the way it was supposed to be done or did TSP not send me what I needed?
Thanks.
EDIT: the headers tucked up very nicely.
Needless to say, I'm not very happy with Pacesetter or TSP at the moment. The install looks great and went great except for the clearance of the o2 sensor and what you see in the pic. I can lay a 12 oz. can sideways and fit it under the tail pipe...barely. If the exhaust goes any higher, which would be maybe an inch at best, it'll be resting on the frame of the car. We also had to attach the hangers by drilling 4 holes through the floorpan.
Is this the way it was supposed to be done or did TSP not send me what I needed?
Thanks.
EDIT: the headers tucked up very nicely.
Looks like you didn't tuck up the mufflers well enough. You can also turn the tips to the side instead of pointing them straight down....like you have right now....
I asked TSP about clearance...they said with the muffler, to bang the floorpan in to get added clearance, and have the tips pointing at a 45* angle to gain additional clearance....
Tried that yet?
I asked TSP about clearance...they said with the muffler, to bang the floorpan in to get added clearance, and have the tips pointing at a 45* angle to gain additional clearance....
Tried that yet?
wow that looks sick..how long did it take you...to do your header install ???Hours???
also...was it really that hard..did you need a lift etc etc..im really thinken about getting some shitty headers for my car for now..what i mean by shitty is not powder coated or ceramic coated just cheap ones for now.
also...was it really that hard..did you need a lift etc etc..im really thinken about getting some shitty headers for my car for now..what i mean by shitty is not powder coated or ceramic coated just cheap ones for now.
Originally Posted by tim99ws6
Looks like you didn't tuck up the mufflers well enough. You can also turn the tips to the side instead of pointing them straight down....like you have right now....
I asked TSP about clearance...they said with the muffler, to bang the floorpan in to get added clearance, and have the tips pointing at a 45* angle to gain additional clearance....
Tried that yet?
I asked TSP about clearance...they said with the muffler, to bang the floorpan in to get added clearance, and have the tips pointing at a 45* angle to gain additional clearance....
Tried that yet?
I thought about changing the position of the turn downs but I was wondering what kind of sound change it would make? I didn't think about banging in the floor pan itself....although we did do that to make the drivers side header fit.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Originally Posted by msbz_ls1
wow that looks sick..how long did it take you...to do your header install ???Hours???
also...was it really that hard..did you need a lift etc etc..im really thinken about getting some shitty headers for my car for now..what i mean by shitty is not powder coated or ceramic coated just cheap ones for now.
also...was it really that hard..did you need a lift etc etc..im really thinken about getting some shitty headers for my car for now..what i mean by shitty is not powder coated or ceramic coated just cheap ones for now.
We did it in the carport. Four jack stands and a jack.
I don't recommend you do this yourself unless you're pretty handy with cars, or has a buddy, like I did, that is.
..that sux
Originally Posted by tim99ws6
Another thing i've heard to try is bend the pipe after the x a little to make the mufflers/exhaust hang up inside the DS tunnel a little better...
you'll find that that is most likely the case with anything...however in regards to their product, i haven't heard any real complaints...mainly just a little bit about clearance...but what do you expect when you get 3"duals
You're right, but I'm saying from what I had read on here, it wouldn't have been nearly as bad. I guess I'm going to beat the floor pan a bit and maybe bend the mufflers upwards.
It sounds truly amazing though. I love it.
It sounds truly amazing though. I love it.
Hey, you sure you have the X-pipe put on the right way? I know it has a weird bend in it, and it should be in there so that the mufflers and piping after the X point upwards....i was just thinking of that after i looked at your pics again....can you snap a pic of the x itself where it connects to the rear piping???
Well, as low as the car is, it'd be hard to get a pic of it. But now that you say something, when we were putting it on my step dad kept saying how the x-pipe looked funny where it was welded, like it wasn't even. You're thinking that I should flip the x pipe to the other side? I didn't think there would be any difference?
Like taking the x itself and just flipping it to the other side?
Like taking the x itself and just flipping it to the other side?