help new guy
12-05-2004, 01:13 PM
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help new guy just bought a 99 trans am auto ls1 it had 273 gears and i changed them to 342 and put a whisper lid i have 1000 dollars to spend on it this week what is the best thing to do without nitros
12-05-2004, 01:18 PM
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read JRP's guide to modding. once you've done that, you'll have a better idea. my vote is headers and catback if you don't mind buying pacesetter headers. if you plan on SS headers, go Kooks/QTP and a LS6 intake. then try to pick up a ported tb as well.
also, you might try posting this in the correct forum, like Enthusiasts. that will be better for responses.
also, you might try posting this in the correct forum, like Enthusiasts. that will be better for responses.
12-05-2004, 02:51 PM
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help new guy just bought a 99 trans am auto it had 273 gears and i put 342 and a whisper lid i have 1000 dollars to spend on it what can i do to get more power out of it besides nitros
12-05-2004, 03:27 PM
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where are you located...lid, intake, headers and a cutout will defintely be the correct steps but you need to be careful with emissions. Dont forget the tires!!!
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12-05-2004, 05:05 PM
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i am located in lewisville texas i just want my car to run low 8 in 1/8 mile i dont drive it everyday but i like to drive it to the track and i want it to run good and hard
12-05-2004, 05:59 PM
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What I listed SHOULD get you there. Check my sig for what I ran with mods. With A tune I believe I would have 8 flats. Every car is different tho, yours may be stronger. A stall would definetly get you there.
Nitrous will get you there pretty easy as well but its not for everyone.
BTW check the for sale section for really good prices. You get much more for your money that way.
Check out www.installuniversity.com for some good free mods and how-to's
Nitrous will get you there pretty easy as well but its not for everyone.
BTW check the for sale section for really good prices. You get much more for your money that way.
Check out www.installuniversity.com for some good free mods and how-to's
12-06-2004, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Richiec77
If you are looking for pure track performance a stall and tires will get you there. Vig 3200 is what I run and it knocked 6/10th off my quarter. Long tubes will add more power the stall will make it more TRACK effecient.
12-06-2004, 03:39 PM
#12
Get some longtubes and a good offroad exhaust. A true dual system will make the most power.
With longtubes, duals, and a lid my car run an 8.24 @ 88mph yesterday. With yours having 3.73 gears and being an auto it should run 7's all day long because my 8.24 was on a 1.92 60' which you will be able to beat as long as you can hook.
Actually I run an 8.27 on a 2.09 60' time so Im confident you can beat my times.
With longtubes, duals, and a lid my car run an 8.24 @ 88mph yesterday. With yours having 3.73 gears and being an auto it should run 7's all day long because my 8.24 was on a 1.92 60' which you will be able to beat as long as you can hook.
Actually I run an 8.27 on a 2.09 60' time so Im confident you can beat my times.
12-07-2004, 04:19 PM
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One of two things......
Headers/duals (or your choice of Y-pipe and cat-back or cutout)
or Converter/drag radials.
The converter/drag radial route will be more $$, and would go over $1k if you had to pay a shop for installation. However, it would be a much better performance mod. Immediate 0.5++ reduction in 1/4. Doing headers first you can install them yourself for sure with basic tools and it will sound better also.
I did exhaust before converter and am still unsure which I would do first if I had to do it again. They both have their advantages.
TSP makes a good dual system. I got mine from Speed Inc, $550 installed, a couple years ago because I am relatively close.
Headers/duals (or your choice of Y-pipe and cat-back or cutout)
or Converter/drag radials.
The converter/drag radial route will be more $$, and would go over $1k if you had to pay a shop for installation. However, it would be a much better performance mod. Immediate 0.5++ reduction in 1/4. Doing headers first you can install them yourself for sure with basic tools and it will sound better also.
I did exhaust before converter and am still unsure which I would do first if I had to do it again. They both have their advantages.
TSP makes a good dual system. I got mine from Speed Inc, $550 installed, a couple years ago because I am relatively close.
12-07-2004, 05:06 PM
#16
Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
One of two things......
Headers/duals (or your choice of Y-pipe and cat-back or cutout)
or Converter/drag radials.
The converter/drag radial route will be more $$, and would go over $1k if you had to pay a shop for installation. However, it would be a much better performance mod. Immediate 0.5++ reduction in 1/4. Doing headers first you can install them yourself for sure with basic tools and it will sound better also.
I did exhaust before converter and am still unsure which I would do first if I had to do it again. They both have their advantages.
TSP makes a good dual system. I got mine from Speed Inc, $550 installed, a couple years ago because I am relatively close.
Headers/duals (or your choice of Y-pipe and cat-back or cutout)
or Converter/drag radials.
The converter/drag radial route will be more $$, and would go over $1k if you had to pay a shop for installation. However, it would be a much better performance mod. Immediate 0.5++ reduction in 1/4. Doing headers first you can install them yourself for sure with basic tools and it will sound better also.
I did exhaust before converter and am still unsure which I would do first if I had to do it again. They both have their advantages.
TSP makes a good dual system. I got mine from Speed Inc, $550 installed, a couple years ago because I am relatively close.
Right on the money with this. So you can probably figure on $500-$900 Stall, $200-400 install, Tires ? New $400+ with rims. Or if you're mechanically inclined you could make it for under a $1000.
12-07-2004, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
One of two things......
Headers/duals (or your choice of Y-pipe and cat-back or cutout)
or Converter/drag radials.
The converter/drag radial route will be more $$, and would go over $1k if you had to pay a shop for installation. However, it would be a much better performance mod. Immediate 0.5++ reduction in 1/4. Doing headers first you can install them yourself for sure with basic tools and it will sound better also.
I did exhaust before converter and am still unsure which I would do first if I had to do it again. They both have their advantages.
TSP makes a good dual system. I got mine from Speed Inc, $550 installed, a couple years ago because I am relatively close.
Headers/duals (or your choice of Y-pipe and cat-back or cutout)
or Converter/drag radials.
The converter/drag radial route will be more $$, and would go over $1k if you had to pay a shop for installation. However, it would be a much better performance mod. Immediate 0.5++ reduction in 1/4. Doing headers first you can install them yourself for sure with basic tools and it will sound better also.
I did exhaust before converter and am still unsure which I would do first if I had to do it again. They both have their advantages.
TSP makes a good dual system. I got mine from Speed Inc, $550 installed, a couple years ago because I am relatively close.
Rick
12-07-2004, 05:20 PM
#18
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Originally Posted by ricker6869
FYI: My TCI SSF 3500 ran me $505 shipped to my door + $200 install at a very reputable shop here in Houston. I picked up a set of new Nitto DR's for $310 including tax..All that equals $1015.00. At the track it equaled 6tenths off my 1/4 time.
Rick
Rick
-$200 is a very competetive rate for TC install
-You need a trans cooler as well, for another ~$55
-You really should get a shift kit, like a transgo, which is ~$110
-If you want to know what's going on, a trans temp gauge will add even more.
All told it will be at least a little bit over. The problem with quoting prices is that it can be quite a bit diff based on little things. Mine was even more...~$300 in labor, the converter, shift, cooler, transmission temp gauge, and I also got a new, larger, finned, aluminum transmission pan ($110).
My upcoming cam swap (with dual springs) will cost me less than my converter swap by several hundred dollars. BUT it would be at least as much if I got a new timing chain and ported oil pump, etc.
See what I mean?? Always end up wtih extras that aren't always realized at first
