Ttops and Subs?
04-07-2005, 11:39 AM
#22
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i just throw my ttops in the back seat, fits good there with no problems. i thought i would have a issue not having the ttop holders but its fine in the back seat.
04-10-2005, 03:15 AM
#25
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just to throw my two cents in...i would ditch the kickers and get a high quality sq sub with a sealed enclosure and run a zapco amp to it. probably a zapco 500m which is good to two ohms and will throw anywhere from 500 to 700 good clean watts to your sub all the time. it all depends on how much your alternator is puuting out and how many volts i coming from your deck. if you're going for high performance then i would work around that setup becuz the amps are a drag on your engine, another load for your alternator to carry. so make sure to get a monoblock class d amp that will deliver big power with little voltage input. i had a zapco 500m on two alpine r twelves and i hit 138.6db with a 500 watt amp. and all that was done in a little tiny lancer with two amps running from a stock alternator, and the camamros is stronger so if done right then you'll have big results. for a sub maybe image dyanmics ,resosnant engineering, or maybe treo engineering. all depends on your goal but best of luck deciding what you're going to do...if you want a high performing car then let that be your driving force but if you want a high performance stereo then let that decide what you're gointo do about your t-tops. thats what i would do
04-10-2005, 04:36 AM
#26
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Originally Posted by treydies
just to throw my two cents in...i would ditch the kickers and get a high quality sq sub with a sealed enclosure and run a zapco amp to it. probably a zapco 500m which is good to two ohms and will throw anywhere from 500 to 700 good clean watts to your sub all the time. it all depends on how much your alternator is puuting out and how many volts i coming from your deck. if you're going for high performance then i would work around that setup becuz the amps are a drag on your engine, another load for your alternator to carry. so make sure to get a monoblock class d amp that will deliver big power with little voltage input. i had a zapco 500m on two alpine r twelves and i hit 138.6db with a 500 watt amp. and all that was done in a little tiny lancer with two amps running from a stock alternator, and the camamros is stronger so if done right then you'll have big results. for a sub maybe image dyanmics ,resosnant engineering, or maybe treo engineering. all depends on your goal but best of luck deciding what you're going to do...if you want a high performing car then let that be your driving force but if you want a high performance stereo then let that decide what you're gointo do about your t-tops. thats what i would do
First you talk about buying SQ (sound quality) stuff and then you tell him to buy a class D amplifier. Because D is the worst class in terms of less filtering (which dramatically affects sound quality) this would not be ideal for SQ applications. Most head units put out sufficient volts from the preamp, this is the reason amplifiers have gains. Amperage draw does not 'drag' your engine but it does strain the electrical system. For his application a 1 farad capacitor with a optima yellow top should be sufficient.
You have quite a few options
T-top Box - http://www.subthump.com/acamarottop.htm
Mil House - http://www.subthump.com/acamaromilhouse.htm
Stealth - http://www.subthump.com/acamarostealth.htm
JL Stealth box - http://www.jlaudio.com/stealthbox/camaro.html
Last edited by 2MuchRiceMakesMeSick; 04-10-2005 at 04:47 AM.
04-10-2005, 05:24 AM
#27
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Originally Posted by 2MuchRiceMakesMeSick
Kicker makes a great sub.
First you talk about buying SQ (sound quality) stuff and then you tell him to buy a class D amplifier. Because D is the worst class in terms of less filtering (which dramatically affects sound quality) this would not be ideal for SQ applications. Most head units put out sufficient volts from the preamp, this is the reason amplifiers have gains. Amperage draw does not 'drag' your engine but it does strain the electrical system. For his application a 1 farad capacitor with a optima yellow top should be sufficient.
You have quite a few options
T-top Box - http://www.subthump.com/acamarottop.htm
Mil House - http://www.subthump.com/acamaromilhouse.htm
Stealth - http://www.subthump.com/acamarostealth.htm
JL Stealth box - http://www.jlaudio.com/stealthbox/camaro.html
First you talk about buying SQ (sound quality) stuff and then you tell him to buy a class D amplifier. Because D is the worst class in terms of less filtering (which dramatically affects sound quality) this would not be ideal for SQ applications. Most head units put out sufficient volts from the preamp, this is the reason amplifiers have gains. Amperage draw does not 'drag' your engine but it does strain the electrical system. For his application a 1 farad capacitor with a optima yellow top should be sufficient.
You have quite a few options
T-top Box - http://www.subthump.com/acamarottop.htm
Mil House - http://www.subthump.com/acamaromilhouse.htm
Stealth - http://www.subthump.com/acamarostealth.htm
JL Stealth box - http://www.jlaudio.com/stealthbox/camaro.html
04-10-2005, 04:34 PM
#28
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Originally Posted by Z28LS1camaroguy
just get a stealth enclosure i have one and one 10" sub hits hard as hell, especially since it is a hatchback u got to realize there is no restriction of the sound. u should go with the stealth box.
