Which order of bolt-ons should i go?
06-06-2005, 11:19 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by WS6FirebirdTA00
yeah listen to lss1power, if you want the most power with bolt ons go with the supercharger first...
haha, maybe one day ill get that far in the mods and move up in the world lol
haha, maybe one day ill get that far in the mods and move up in the world lol
I hope this explains it better
06-06-2005, 11:47 PM
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If you can get some KDW 2's in the right sizes, do those. Nice, aggressive looking tread pattern, GREAT traction (almost as good as Goodyear GS-D3's), and they last decently long. Otherwise, go Nitto.
06-07-2005, 04:56 AM
#23
Originally Posted by LSs1Power
U misunderstood my post. I meant start from the top and go down. If u just get the SC from the start u will see around 120-140rwhp gain, but it will cost u more for HP/$. I mean LID/ Headers/ Catback/ Cam will cost u between $1200-1600 and will show gains between 70-110rwhp depends on the cam size while a SC will cost u close to 5K with the fuel system and show u gains between 120-140rwhp. So if u do HP/$ comparison u will find out that going with the bolt ons and a right cam for your future goals makes a better sense.
I hope this explains it better
I hope this explains it better
06-07-2005, 06:22 AM
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with 2" drop, if you want to keep it...you might want to consider something along the lines of MAC midlinks...otherwise you are gonna grow to hate speed bumps.. 
I had FLP's which tucked quite nicely and a 1" drop and sometimes it would still be close
but then again, if you are gonna go FI someday, long tubes are for you
EDIT: very sharp lookin car!!
I had FLP's which tucked quite nicely and a 1" drop and sometimes it would still be closebut then again, if you are gonna go FI someday, long tubes are for you
EDIT: very sharp lookin car!!
06-07-2005, 01:49 PM
#27
Hello, well thats some good info. I will go pacesetters more than likely so its good to hear that they tuck up pretty good. What do you guys think about a daily driver stall for me. I am alomsot set on a Fuddle 3800 with 2.5 str. Let me know what u think. Also trans go kit and supercooler.
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06-07-2005, 02:05 PM
#28
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Originally Posted by Superman09
Hello, well thats some good info. I will go pacesetters more than likely so its good to hear that they tuck up pretty good. What do you guys think about a daily driver stall for me. I am alomsot set on a Fuddle 3800 with 2.5 str. Let me know what u think. Also trans go kit and supercooler.
Look at the sig for other mods (pretty much what you are planning on doing)
06-07-2005, 03:01 PM
#29
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Don't let anyone try and talk you out of that stall. I had "car guys" coming out the ying yang trying to tell me I'm crazy for the 3600 stall I got. Listen to MOST of the info on this board. It comes from a lot of experience.
06-07-2005, 03:34 PM
#30
oh yea, def going 3800. Firechicken... u have any dyno or track numbers?
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06-07-2005, 03:39 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by Superman09
oh yea, def going 3800. Firechicken... u have any dyno or track numbers?
But don't get too hung up on dyno numbers. Especially after the converter install, they'll read way low.
What I can tell you though, is that at 4,000 rpms my car feels stronger than stock at WOT. and thats on stock tuning, and being lean (14.1:1)...
06-08-2005, 07:56 AM
#33
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Ditch the maf, go with a stock unit.
Don't wimp out on the stall speed, go high! I started with 3500 and just got hte car back a couple days ago with the new 4000 stall speed. For me it's PERFECTLY drivable everyday. Cam effects daily driving more than a converter.
Get some SFC's on there, as well as a lid.
For rear tires, my $.02 is nittos all the way. They don't last a long time (I got 10k out of last pair, virtually none on the highway) but they are GREAT on the street. Just watch out for water when they get worn out.
For front tires the best I've had were BFG g-force TA KDW's, but my new kumho's are a lot cheaper and seem to work nearly as well.
Don't wimp out on the stall speed, go high! I started with 3500 and just got hte car back a couple days ago with the new 4000 stall speed. For me it's PERFECTLY drivable everyday. Cam effects daily driving more than a converter.
Get some SFC's on there, as well as a lid.
For rear tires, my $.02 is nittos all the way. They don't last a long time (I got 10k out of last pair, virtually none on the highway) but they are GREAT on the street. Just watch out for water when they get worn out.
For front tires the best I've had were BFG g-force TA KDW's, but my new kumho's are a lot cheaper and seem to work nearly as well.
06-08-2005, 02:23 PM
#34
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I would recommend all the small cheap hp adders that don't require a tune. Once you have enough saved, get a heads and cam package and then a tune. No need to get multiple tunes if you don't have to. They are expensive.
06-08-2005, 02:50 PM
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Well, I can't recommend anything, cause I'm new to all of this, but I jumped in head first and put a cam in. Now, I'm having to back up and punt and change the gear, port the tb, etc. I have the STB, but not the SFC yet. Have lady redhawk's old exhaust sytem w/ported & polished manifold, gutted cats, and cut out. Haven't been to the track since the new mods. Will let you know.
06-11-2005, 04:01 AM
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Originally Posted by SilverC5Vert
Livernois has done all of the work on my current car and my last three Mustangs and I've been very happy with the service I received.
With an auto car, I'd definitely do a stall!
-Rick
With an auto car, I'd definitely do a stall!
-Rick
06-11-2005, 04:15 AM
#38
Originally Posted by Superman09
Hello all. I have a 99 TA with a few mods. Borla Cat back, granatelli MAF, underdrive pullys, Suncoast Ram Air with WS6 hood, Hotchkis strut tower brace and SFC's, and Eibach kit lowered 2 inches. I want to get LT's (probably pacesetters due to their price but may get some stainless if money comes around) and an ORY (Not sure of brand for that) I also want a to get a stall. Im pretty set on getting a fuddle 3800 with 2.5 STR. I dont think 3600 is enough and 4000 may be too much for street use everyday. I also was looking at LS6 intake and ported TB. This car will be everyday daily driver but my goal is to try and get low 12s or high 11s if possible before cam and nitrous. Money is an issue right now so i iwll do stuff part by part. What do you think i should get first and than what after, etc. Thanks
i decided to do all the bolt ons before a stall. now about 3/4 of the way through i realize that i should have got the stall first!! dont make the same mistake!
get one now!
06-11-2005, 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by JustAnIlluzion
is LM on this forum? how much would they charge for a stall install? besides the new TC and fluid, what else is needed in terms of parts.. this is my first automatic car