ibanez7

iTrader: (7)

thanks guys, all your thoughts have been helpful....

radio626active

Id go to ebay and buy that electric 2psi blower (hair dryer), and have money left over! IM KIDDING! IM KIDDING!

ibanez7

iTrader: (7)

lol

buy that along with the 1.2k resistor for $20.00..

figure the new boost and advance timeing, my ls1 should pick up about 120hp, and beat the local ricers and their 50hp racing stripe mods. lol

jaberwaki

dont forget the tornado and velocity stack!!!

jaberwaki

sigh.... newbies.... hand held tuners are CRAP!!!!

REAL tuning software is what you want....

blkZ28spt

No, it's NOT. Not by a longshot. Sorry. If I had a STOCK car and $400 I'd do a small amount of stretching (like I always have to do with any purchase....) and get a hooker cat-back and a lid.

He obviously spent a bit more than $400 though.

200kTA

400$ could get u probebly a used dry kit on your car...

jaberwaki

ok so your logic is... yes they suck... you know that, but you think since he only has 400 bucks that he should buy something that sucks....

so if you have 50 bucks i could **** in a box and send it to you... it would be the same thing....

look if it sucks then it sucks..... there are alot of things he can do with 400 bucks that WONT be a waist of time.... he has obviousely been paying attention, and has made some solid choices... he should do exactly what he stated in his first post...

jaberwaki

wow this is gonna be a long day.......

NITROUSE IS NOT SOMETHING YOU GO CHEAP ON!!!!!!!

blkZ28spt

Figure I'll put this up again. This is the second time it has been suggested, and the second time it has been said that nitrous is not cheap to do right and should NOT be done cheap!

Too many people recommend nitrous with a $400-$500 budget.

jaberwaki

and if you did a search before you posted you would find that dyno tests have shown time and again that flowmaster 80 series catbacks are MORE restrictive then stock catback, several people have LOST 2hp making the flowmaster mistake...
a cutout will net him 10-15 hp over the flowmaster....

If he BUYS REAL tuning software (for instance i bought hp tuners) then he can do any of that, he can also TRUELY tune his car, scale fuel mapping for injectors size changes, switch to speed dencity instead of MAF, and a million other things he CANT do with some cheaply put together over priced hand held....

jaberwaki

My 02 ran 13.00 @ 108 mph bone stock paper filter and street tires..... whats your point?

jaberwaki

true...



I love this....."blah blah blah my feeling are hurt because you made perfectly logical points that were better then mine, so i am going to go lick the wounds on my hurt ego, but i am going to leave with this witty comeback...I HAVE A LIFE SO THERE .... there that will get him good...."





you newbies crack me up.....

lemme hand you a cookie and give you a clue... i am here....playing on the internet.... at work... getting paid $45 an hour.... this is what i do when i have nothing important going on here.... so ....OOOOOOOOOOO you have a LIFE..

wow captain.. thats great .. good luck with that

blkZ28spt

And people who spend time online researching their hobby and helping others with it don't have a life.

200kTA

thats why i said USED kit. i know new would cost u 700-800 bucks but u can find complete kits for 400 all day long.

jaberwaki

what do you consider complete? i have not seen any complete kits for this price....

the cheapest complete kits i have seen used go for 700-800 bucks...
new a truely COMPLETE kit should be 1500ish...

ibanez7

iTrader: (7)

once again, THANK YOU to everyone who has posted, even if your thoughts sucked or where good. All thoughts are appreciated.

first off yes I am a newbie to LS1tech but I have about 3yrs and 2000posts on ls1.com. I have found out that ls1.com was knowledgable but ls1tech is definitely full of more knowledge and alittle more serious. Throughtout of my 12 years of driving and owning cars, 4 of them have been f-bodies, 84 firebird, 87 Trans am GTA, 94 z28 a4 and my current love, a 2001 z28 m6.

Here is the reason for my intial question: I feel that to properly build up a car, you have to build it with the right plan and the right order. Dont just build up your engine and expect to grip, or expect the drivetrain to handle it, or beable to stop on a dime at 130+mph. Its not a perfect world.

here is more order of mods I did first to last, to back up my above statement:
(car bought used with 20,000 miles and LS6 heads installed)

EBC dimpled/slotted rotors, all the way around with hawk pads. (whats the point of going fast if you cant stop fast)

17" wheels to hold 275 width tires. (need traction)

k/n filter- (still not convinced that oil filters out perform paper)

Strut tower stabilizer bar (tighten up the front)

SLP LID- (engine needs to breath)

SLP 85mm MAF- (i know it sucks for others but works fine for me)

Fernco rubber pipe ($3 at menards, cheaper and flows better then SLPs bellow)

Cut Open radiator shroud- (more air to intake)

Ported TB, and did bump stop mod, myself (engine needs to breath, higher voltage at WOT is nice)

Spec stage 3 clutch, drill mod and new slave since I destroyed the throwout bearing.
Poly-trans mount (need proper trans angle)

Flowmaster exhuast (my mistake, I knew the name was good and the sound was good,. but have learned flowmaster is not good for f-bodys)

Now since I am installing headers, ORY pipe, and a 231/237 cam this winter(fun winter project), I wanted to spend a budget amount this summer and not take away from my savings for the cam\headers project.
I want to get the most out of my parts while setting the stage for the major parts, while having a little more performance for the rest of the summer.

My camaro is going to be 100% Natural aspirated, and no bottles (thanks for the NOS thoughts), also I cant see buying a tuner when I am tuning my car this winter after the heads/cam install (thank for the tuning thoughts). At time of cam/head install, I will also install a 3.73 gear, once again tuning is helpfull then..

So right now that leaves me with $400.00 to do any combination of the following or whatever combo or parts you guys have suggested or can still suggest.

LCA (definitely needed, bushing rot)(bmr)
CAI (whisper)
magnaflow muffler or cut-out???not sure which one
lower springs w/adjustable panhard bar(bmr)
Torque arm (bmr)
underdrive pulley(asp)
subframe connectors (kenny brown)
short throw shifter (pro 5.0)

So I figured out of that list, alittle mix of power and suspension, will continue to lay a good foundation for this winters build up.

Now I asked the question on here, because I know there are guys with faster/more built up cars that might have some better insight then my own thoughts.

Once again thanks to everyone...

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

dont waste your money on predator, for the price of a custom predator tune, you could have hp tuners

blkZ28spt

I know jaberwaki already covered this and thread start will be NA, but i will again add my $.02 as this is an all too common misconception I see being spread. YOU CAN NOT DO NITROUS RIGHT FOR $400. Or $500. EVEN USED. To do it RIGHT will cost you at least $1k. And that's assuming your bottom end, fuel pump and injectors can handle the shot you want. Given that, it's still much cheaper than going with FI or bigger cubes and is, IMO, an excellent choice for those people who don't think 400-475 NA rwhp is enough out of their 346. It's in my future.


ibanez7: Given everything you said, the parts you listed and the $400 I would get the magnaflow (or hooker) cat-back. Realistically that will use most of your money, but you can probably swing the magnaflow and the LCA's. I was going to suggest cutout but not with an off road y-pipe, due to both volume and tone of the exhaust note.

ibanez7

iTrader: (7)

I wont be buying the full catback magnaflow system, just the muffler to replace my flowmaster muffler. I already have the tips and catback pipe.