looking for a ws6 under 13 grand, how much did you pay?
#25
On The Tree
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: From Indy now San Diego
Posts: 176
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Paid 22,000 for my 02 in May with 34k miles. I knew it was high but I put 10k down and I had to have a SOM WS6 for the summer. Looking back I made a financial mistake of blowing most of my savings on a down payment, but I do love the car!
![Nod](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_nod.gif)
#28
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Mars
Posts: 342
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
you could always just get a trans am. when you get the ws6, the only thing diff is the hood. you pay like 4-5k more just to have ws6 badges and that hood.
if you want a LS1 with real low miles for cheap though, get a z28.
if you want a LS1 with real low miles for cheap though, get a z28.
#31
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Alberta,Canada
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ya i always could just get T/A...but the WS6 just looks sooo goood...z28's are a lil to plain for me...if i got a camaro it would definatley be a SS....is buyin a LS1 with 100k on it a big deal? or should i stay away from high miles
#32
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Im in the same boat as pontiac. I bought my 02 wrecked for 4500 and have 9-10 in it. Helps when you work at a body shop. And same thing with mine. You would never know it unless you told people that it was wrecked. I used all original GM parts so that helped. I little more expensive but i think definately worth it.
#33
11 Second Club
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Crosslanes WV
Posts: 287
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Bought my 98 T/A with 103,000 on it for 7,500.. It now has 117,000 on it.. As far as buying an LS1 with higher miles, dont be afraid, you can generaly look and drive a car and tell if its been beat.. Mine was as solid as can be, no rattles, super super clean in and out.. Everyday I beat the **** outta my car, and I mean BEAT.. I think LS1's are into S&M or something cause mine just keeps asking for more
![Headbang](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/headbang.gif)
#38
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You should definitely be able to find a good (not probably not excellent) 99-00' in the 13k range with decent mileage (~50-70k) pretty easily. If you get lucky then maybe a '01.
The trade off will most likely be that you will have to travel to find the right car. The used values of these cars varies ALOT with geography. Clean ones are few and far between in the salt belt... they seem to be a dime a dozen down south... and some really cheap ones show up out west too.
This "fit" is important, depending upon what you intend to do with the car. For example if you're going into knowing you are looking for wheels and tires... a 40k mile car that has shot tires and rashed rims should be all the better for your deal. Maybe it's going to be a daily highway driver so the paint doesn't need to be perfect. Maybe you're a motorhead and can deal with bum A/C or a howling rear end. So think about where you want the car to be when all is said and done, as well.
My best advice would be to start looking at least a few months before you are really wanting to have the car to drive, so you don't get rushed and suckered.
The trade off will most likely be that you will have to travel to find the right car. The used values of these cars varies ALOT with geography. Clean ones are few and far between in the salt belt... they seem to be a dime a dozen down south... and some really cheap ones show up out west too.
This "fit" is important, depending upon what you intend to do with the car. For example if you're going into knowing you are looking for wheels and tires... a 40k mile car that has shot tires and rashed rims should be all the better for your deal. Maybe it's going to be a daily highway driver so the paint doesn't need to be perfect. Maybe you're a motorhead and can deal with bum A/C or a howling rear end. So think about where you want the car to be when all is said and done, as well.
My best advice would be to start looking at least a few months before you are really wanting to have the car to drive, so you don't get rushed and suckered.
#40
Banned
iTrader: (115)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...60#post3668460
Great freaking deal here w/forged 347! I'd buy it myself swap bottom ends and sell the car for the exact same, but the wife would stimy!
Great freaking deal here w/forged 347! I'd buy it myself swap bottom ends and sell the car for the exact same, but the wife would stimy!