I'm thinking my car is a dud (262rwhp, 13.85 @ 100.1)
#22
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You ran in the heat and humidity, that will kill your et and mph. You dyno'd in the heat and humidity, that will hurt your numbers. Get a lid and a cutout if you don't already have them. Heat the nitto's a lot at the track. I only like to brake up to a little above idle on a stock stall car, so just a shade below 1000 rpm. That way when you start rolling into it you will have a few hundred rpm to flash the stock converter and help hit the tires a little harder. You can easily get into the 1.9x's on nitto's, the improvement in 60' alone would drop nearly a half second from your et's.
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13.8 is right at what a stock car should run , your numbers look on mark to me, the track isnt an easy thing to master, the more time you spend there the better you'll get, it just needs to be power tunned and you can get it to 13.1 on a cooler temp day , you're just over anaylizing this, not to be a dick , but you are probably the one who needs inprovement not the car (and i mean that in the nicest way possible). a4 dont come ready for the track , you need to set you shift points , transmisson firmnesss etc. does anyone come with you to the tack to point out your mistakes? it helps with someone there who knows a little bit about this, me and my husband and best friend go up to the track with walkie talkies so we can give the driver (it varies amongst us) points on how straight they lined up , where the water is , how much they spun tires, even helps with those little mess ups like leaving your lights on by accident. and my car which is a 1998 a4 formula , still spins tires in every gear so.... dont get discouraged 13.8 is hardly a "dud".
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Yea I wouldnt say your car is a dud. As everyone has said mustang dynos are much lower than dynojets so your numbers seem pretty good for a stock A4. Also the humidity will hurt your numbers and the stereo sure isnt helping. I had 3 10 inch mtx subs in a huge custom enclosure in my trunk, thing weighed a ton, and honestly my car felt slower after installing it. I sold it the enclosure and put the subs and amp in my navigator and I can def feel a difference without the extra weight in there. Before making a rash decision and selling off your car id say take the stereo out for your next track run and see what it will run in better weather conditions. If it still isnt running the time you want then I guess sell it and get an M6 LS1. Bolt ons, such a a torque converter, headers, catback, etc will help too so i wouldnt give up on the car yet. Good luck though with whatever you choose!
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na 262 mustand dyno actually sounds about right for a 2000 on a dyno jet you would prolly see 30hp more which would be 292 which is reasonable for a 2000 car on a bad day...BTW get a tune of your part throddle shift points and shift duration even a bolton t\a will have issues with a M6 if your not tuned
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Those numbers aren't off at all. 262 for an 00 A4 on a mustang dyno? Some A4s dyno in the 290 range on dynojets. And your track times shouldn't be scaring you, from your description it sounds like you only went once. My first time at the track I ran a 13.9 and 13.6 at 110 mph with a full exhaust and intake. Now I just ran a 12.9 at 109 in my brother's ws6 with a lid and catback. It just takes time and experience at the track. Get your 60' down to a 2.0 or less on a day that isn't really hot and you will see some good numbers
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Make sure your Throttle plate opens all the way when you floor it. You need to check this by someone sitting in the car and pressing the pedal down, not by manipulating the cable under the hood. Several of the earlier cars had issues in this area.
This would explain the low trap speed and lower 60 ft times with no wheelspin.
If it runs good, I wouldn't get rid of it. You may wind up with an oil-burning, piston slap sewing machine that runs fast but drives you nuts. AND, car swapping will cost some bucks. Put the bucks into your car instead.
Good luck
Mike
This would explain the low trap speed and lower 60 ft times with no wheelspin.
If it runs good, I wouldn't get rid of it. You may wind up with an oil-burning, piston slap sewing machine that runs fast but drives you nuts. AND, car swapping will cost some bucks. Put the bucks into your car instead.
Good luck
Mike
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I will agree that removable weight makes a difference, but 30 pounds won't change much given you did remove the speakers. My wife can make passes with me in the car and with out me in the car... I weigh 210 lbs. and the et drops a tenth when I get out. So how much will 30 lbs. by itself drop your et.
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I don't know the elevation at the track you were at, but a 2.2 on Nittos is pretty bad.
My 01 SS A4 ran a best ever of 13.0@107.59 bone stock and can hot lap 13.1@106.5+ with only a lid for mods running in the summer Wisconsin weather.
Sounds like you need to work on your driving for one thing.
On the stock tires when I ran the 13.0 and without even trying can get 2.05's on stock tires.
I would hope you'd get 1.95 or better with Nittos.
My 01 SS A4 ran a best ever of 13.0@107.59 bone stock and can hot lap 13.1@106.5+ with only a lid for mods running in the summer Wisconsin weather.
Sounds like you need to work on your driving for one thing.
On the stock tires when I ran the 13.0 and without even trying can get 2.05's on stock tires.
I would hope you'd get 1.95 or better with Nittos.