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Old Dec 10, 2005 | 12:00 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by HAUS1
Why tune an automatic before a converter? Why not save your money, buy a converter cause if you have an automatic, and know the difference between your *** and a hole in the ground, you would know the BIGGEST gain with an auto would be a verter before internals.. Tune the car when you are all done with mods. Tune it once and save money in the long run.
And if you are racing equal modded M6 cars and beating them that bad, those M6 guys might wanna spend some time learning how to drive a M6. A4 cars dont beat equally modded M6's without converters, especially off a dig!
reread my post if hes doin headers and an ORY then hell need either a tune or o2 sims the guy that tunes cars around here and ktk guy live down the street so hell be getin a tune from the same guy costs 200 bucks and you get free retunes so whats the big deal...yea i know that a verter is the best mod.. but the guy that started the thread said CHEAP 100 not 700+ for a verter and then labor.. his best friend has a car with more mods and a ss3600 and they are dead even on track times talk about the best mod?
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Old Dec 10, 2005 | 05:38 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by slimcracka
reread my post if hes doin headers and an ORY then hell need either a tune or o2 sims the guy that tunes cars around here and ktk guy live down the street so hell be getin a tune from the same guy costs 200 bucks and you get free retunes so whats the big deal...yea i know that a verter is the best mod.. but the guy that started the thread said CHEAP 100 not 700+ for a verter and then labor.. his best friend has a car with more mods and a ss3600 and they are dead even on track times talk about the best mod?
Maybe his friends car is a piece of ****. Maybe his shift points are messed up or the car is not set up properly. Don't really care. Why do you need a tune or o2 sims with an ORY? I didn't have either and my car ran fine.
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Old Dec 10, 2005 | 05:41 PM
  #23  
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Plus it sounds like he wants a ntoicable difference! You are telling me a tune with MINOR boltons will give him a NOTICABLE difference?!
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Old Dec 10, 2005 | 07:13 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by HAUS1
Plus it sounds like he wants a ntoicable difference! You are telling me a tune with MINOR boltons will give him a NOTICABLE difference?!
well aparently it does something cuz i raced a m6 car with the same mods except i had a tune and we went from a 10 roll and he jumped out and i realed him in and yes you need a tune or o2 sims unless you want a SEC light stairing you in the face and not knowing when something is really wrong but

to each his own i guess hell have to read this and make and educated guess on what to spend his money on... but ill stick with a tune
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Old Dec 10, 2005 | 09:14 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 300bhp/ton
I reckon there's a few suspension/chassis components worth buying:

BMR Shock Tower Brace Texas Speed & Performance $99.00
Sub frame connectors BMR Fabrication $169.95
Driveshaft safety loop BMR Fabrication $99.95
Tunnel Brace BMR Fabrication $89.95
Control Arms BMR Fabrication $119.95
Panhard Rod BMR Fabrication $99.95

Any of these would be worth while.
I think that he was wanting power over traction at this point.
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Old Dec 10, 2005 | 09:29 PM
  #26  
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There are a few free mods out there that you can do...

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/61241-porting-throttle-body.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...t=free+ram+air

Here's a thread of favorite mods...

https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-ls1-owners-newbie-tech/250633-whats-your-favorite-mod-your-car.html
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Old Dec 10, 2005 | 10:30 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by slimcracka
well aparently it does something cuz i raced a m6 car with the same mods except i had a tune and we went from a 10 roll and he jumped out and i realed him in and yes you need a tune or o2 sims unless you want a SEC light stairing you in the face and not knowing when something is really wrong but

to each his own i guess hell have to read this and make and educated guess on what to spend his money on... but ill stick with a tune
Street racing off of rolls is the worst way to distinguish who is faster! VERY unreliable and not very valid at all.
Get the tune when you are all said and DONE with your mods and save yourself money man.
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Old Dec 10, 2005 | 11:46 PM
  #28  
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Save for a TUNE?
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Old Dec 11, 2005 | 07:33 AM
  #29  
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don't waste ur money on a tune just yet, Had the car dynoed today w/the mods in sig,plus fans turned at175&1785, and my air fuel ratio was a dead flatline between 12.5 and 13.0, the shop even said that the only thing they could really do is throw a little bit more timing to it since I don't have cats. by the way, It made an SAE CORRECTED 335rwhp and 342 lbs/tq. nice for a mild bolt on Z, even dynoed more torque than 3 C6 vettes. wait on the tune , or dyno it to see if ur air fuelratios and timing really need that much changing. bythe way, it had 325 lb's of tq at 3000 rpm. talk about a badass flat power curve.
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Old Dec 11, 2005 | 05:33 PM
  #30  
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watch the for sale setion on here....you can pick up parts alot cheaper and get stuff that will really help

lid.....70
ram air....70
smooth bellow...35(more for appearance)
cutout...35-50
cags...15-20(if m6)
STB....40-70
port stock throttle body yourself or pay someone around 75 to do it
EGR!
AIR!
Short stick....20-30 (if m6)
driver mod
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Old Dec 11, 2005 | 06:36 PM
  #31  
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Port, epoxy the TB /bumpstop mod .....cost is low:
Buy a dremel or similar tool...
Buy epoxy, or devcon, or whatever....
Invest a coupla' hours of free labor...
One of the most satisfying "almost free" mods
I've done. Did mine several years ago.
Gives you a project you can be happy with when
you're done.

I like some of the other suggestions, all depends
on your skill levels.
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