i've just been planning on heads/cam, although i dont even know if i can make that much power with a h/c package anyway? i dont want a huge cam.
but seems you may be replacing 02's and sparkplugs much more often with h/c?
i want reliability and dont wanna have to be changing out stupid little bullshit all the time.
what are some good options?

 

supercharger...lol, or a monster of bolt ons would be my guess.

 

i used to REALLY want a s/c..well, i still do but yeah.
i'd like to have a forged motor if i went that route...that **** gets expensive real quick
i'm making 368rwhp with full boltons as it is. i think i'm pretty much topped out as far as that goes

 

If you have the money a supercharger will safely make 450rwhp without the need for a forged shortblock. 450rwhp heads/cam is going to be fairly radical and will definatly not drive like stock. Unless you just get a good combo. I know someone driving around on prted 6.0L heads and a 224/228 that made 456rwhp 411rwtq.

My suggestion if you have the money is get the at d1-sc tuner kit. Get some injectors, 255lph fuel pump, and ls6 cam, and a good tune. Definatly will make 450rwhp. And drive like stock, and be reliable.

 

Can I start by asking you a few questions.

1. Why do you want 450rwhp, is it for bragging rights or dyno stats?

Surly if you want a fast car, then setting a target ET and building a car to achieve it would be a better bet.

2. You seem at odds, 450rwhp, well a real 450rwhp (meaning not produced on a non load bearing dyno) is actually a lot to ask and still be reliable. Think about it there are very few production cars that make that kind of power, and the ones that do are very expensive and usually exotic supercars that are not designed to be driven daily.

NOTE: 450rwhp on a Dynojet dyno would be like dynoing 410-430rwhp or less on a Mustang Dyno. The power is of course the same, but the numbers will vary.

If you are after that kind of power then, no a H/C full bolt on appraoch would not be best. Sure it will make the power (just) but it's street manors will be pretty compromised. It would probably be reliable, but durability will suffer resulting in much higher and more frequent maintance. So therefore I see 3 options. None particulary cheap.

1. Full bolt on's with a mild cam. This should get you to a genuine 370+rwhp. And then have a shot of nitrous so you can up the anti when needed. This is the cheapest option, but to do it properly will require you to upgrade the chassis/suspension and other components.

From stock budget on ~$7000 in parts (no labour) and that's provided nothing breaks. However, you will eventually break your rear end so add another $2000-2500 on top to cover that.

2. Same as above, but get either a 402 or 408ci block. This way you probably can ditch the nitrous and still make some good power. But it's going to be more expensive.

3. Supercharger, you might not need as many bolt ons, but a few won't go a miss. This will probably cost similar to getting a bigger ci motor. And should easily make 440rwhp (Mustang Dyno). But it will cost and although 7-8psi of boost is considered safe, you may still blow the engine up (it can and does happen). So a forged engine is a safer bet, but it's even more $$$.

As I said, instead of aiming at a particular HP level, why not just build the car up to meet a particular goal.

Personally I'd rather dyno less power and run faster, than make massive dyno stats but be unable to use any of it.

Here's my build sheet for my mods. There's still plenty of variation, but I have researched each component type and manufacture. And I am happy that it will deliver the performance I am requiring. I would also port my own TB and would carry provisions for replacing the rear end when it breaks.

Full Service:
All fluids, plugs, leads, belts, etc.

Induction:
TSP Lid Texas Speed & Performance $95.00
Paper filter

Exhaust:
PaceSetter Exhaust Ceramic-Coated Long Tube Headers, 1998-1999 LS1 F-Body with Emissions Fittings, With TSP 3" Y-Pipe with Hi-Flow Catalytic Converters Texas Speed & Performance $700.00
SLP Loud Mouth single 3.5" slash tip on each side Texas Speed & Performance $405.99

Transmission:
Pro Yank 3400 stall Yank $995.00
Perma Cool 20-22000 GVW Transmission Cooler Texas Speed & Performance $49.99

Tuning:
VCM Suite Pro HP Tuners $499.00
Dyno Tune $400.00

Suspension & Chassis:
Tubular Sub-Frame Connectors - Mild Steel Spohn Performance $150.00
Tubular LS1 Solid Motor Mounts Spohn Performance $145.00
Tubular Shock Tower Brace Spohn Performance $85.00
Lower Control Arms - Boxed with Poly Bushings Spohn Performance $140.00
LCA Mounting Hardware Kit (F) Spohn Performance $10.95
Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets Spohn Performance $65.00
Panhard Bar - Adjustable with Poly Bushings Spohn Performance $125.00
Panhard Bar Mounting Hardware Kit Spohn Performance $10.95
Adj. Torque Arm - LS1 F-Body w/Long Tubes Spohn Performance $435.00
Torque Arm Rear Mounting Hardware Kit Spohn Performance $19.95
Spohn Sway Bars - Solid 4140 Chrome Moly Spohn Performance $295.00
Poly Bushing & Chassis Grease - 14 oz. Tube Spohn Performance $15.00
Polyurethane Transmission Mount - GM Spohn Performance $24.50

Additional Performance modifications:
SLP LS6 Intake Manifold with EGR Provision Texas Speed & Performance $498.99
Thunder Racing LS1 Cam Swap Package w/ Dual Valve Springsxincluding gasket set ($54.99) and complete with TR224/224-112 Camshaft Thunder Racing $854.98

Wheels:
American Racing Equipment Classic Torq-Thrust II Wheels Summit Racing, 17 x 9.5 all round with 275/40-17 tyres $1,371.96

The brakes would also need to be updated. And I'd probably go for a Strange 12 bolt rear with 3.73 gears.

All the above are what I would consider FULL BOLT ONS with a cam. There are still many parts such as MAF and pulley swaps and smooth bellows. However I do not deem them either worth the hassle, pointless or possible counter productive to change (for future modifications). Also the car should still remain comfortbale to drive and ride in, sound good without being too noisy. Retain all the creature comforts, handle well. And be FULL emissions legal. If it's still not enough I would add a Procharger also and run 7-8psi.

From here on you could go 125 shot of nitrous, or indeed add a Procharger D1 blower, although you may want to revise which cam to use if you go FI.

Hope this helps.

 

Trade current car for C6 Z06. That's reliable, and hassle free.

 

Full boltons and H/C Will get you around that point, if you're going with a steep'ish cam and some good heads.

Other options would be the P-1SC kit, or even an STS kit.

Depends on what you're goals are for the car, and what you consider drivable.

 

HMM, I thought there were some problems with the c6 z06.

 

right...i've got $50k+ under my mattress

 

what psi are people running with the P-1SC?
what psi is known to be safe to run on a stock ls1, and what is it that would cause problems with a s/c on a stock ls1, just running too much boost?
also, someone mentioned the ls6 cam, would running a little larger cam than that benefit the s/c and overall power without sacrificing 'drivability' and reliability?

 

With full bolt on's you can easily gain 100 hp with 7lbs of boost. Go with the D1SC1 over the P1SC1. Boost is addictive. You always want more. And whatever you budget double it. Been there, doing it! You shouldn't need to worry about a forged bottom end until you get over 500 hp.

 

hm, how much boost are you running? how much power do you make? what times have you run, if you've run it before...

 

oh, and by "100 hp" you mean rwhp, right?

 

Dude, just keep what you have and spray it.

 

not interested in n02 :shrug:
sure it works (and for relatively cheap), but it's just not the route i wanna take.

 

N2o does the same thing as a supercharger, just not all the time.

 

exactly

 

True enough.

 

450+rwhp is on the cusp of where it cost big money to get more power.(if n20 isn't an option)

 

I'm at 7lbs and making 436 RWHP 404 RWTQ. I haven't run it at the track, waiting until after Christmas to get some drag radials. I get absolutley NO traction now.