AU98TA

I really hope that he has gotten some larger fuel injectors!! The 98-99's had larger fuel injectors than the 00-02's. 98-99's are safe up to 150hp shot, 00-02's not so safe up to a 150hp shot!

CRAGER

Not 98 & 99's.

98 = 28lb

99 = 26lb

00 = 26lb

01 = 28lb

02 = 28lb


Peace,
Craig.

Storms of War

I'm gonna go LS1. Can't match the looks, can't match the power. Most people I talk to say that they really do get close to 28MPG on the highway too. As someone pointed out to me on another forum, they handle better too due to a lighter front end. Thanks for the input guys!

CRAGER

What are you high or something? Read up about LS1's before you post up junk info.

Mike Pabone (Mike @ IconAutoSports
"Home of the World's First Stock Shortblock LS1) did 9.69@135.01 with a 300 shot on his poor little weak all aluminum LS1. Damn thing had like 80k miles on it too, hard miles.


Lets put it this way:

Can a bone stock LT1 goes 12's? Nope.

Do you like to change out a failed design part called optispark often. No.

Would you like more power out of the box and for every same bolt on you get more power then you would LT1? Yes!!!

LT1 guys are always going to say "get the LT1 get the LT1 get the LT1 yaaaaaaaaa!!!!!!" ......biased

I am not, if I had the choice to spend a little more and get a NEWER & FASTER & BETTER MOTOR car I would.


Peace,
Craig.

Rhoop24

I'd say it comes down to money. You can always keep dumping money into your F-Body. I'm definatly not gonna say "get the LT1 get the LT1 get the LT1 yaaaaaaaaa!!!!!!" If I had the money I would definatly get an LS1. But for the money there's nothing wrong with having an LT1. It's just a matter of wanting to put yourself in debt for the LS1, or getting the LT1 and start modding. Just my 2 Cents LS1=LT1

AU98TA

I thought I had it right, thanks for correcting me. Been drinking a little bit tonight too.

ProKill98

Had '95 z-28 auto with LT1 and 98 Formula auto, and 98 Formula w/ 6 speed, after owning 87 Firebird with auto and Mild aluminum headed 350 (13.20et) and 89 Iroc 350 w/ auto. It's a no brainer....LS1. Maintain it with synthetics, pay for the good gas, and race it for years so long as you don't do anything stupid. Sorry nay-sayers but you can't beat the looks of the last gen. Ram Airs (Period)

Cchris1109

iTrader: (11)

sorry i heard wrong, i guess the argument is that since the lt1 was made of cast iron it could take more abuse where as an LS1 engine couldnt i was wrong though, but thats good to know, although i would rather have an Iron block for abuse reasons

and sorry i dont know everything about LS1s, i had a car with aluminum block and it went to **** once it overheated, so i may just be bias since i had bad times with aluminum blocks

SCott5

iTrader: (40)

So the 98 is a better daily driver? That is what i need a mostly daily driver that i can get some power out of.

SgtB

iTrader: (3)

yes go with the 98..a few less miles..and they respond to mods better

Orange Terror

My 99 is an auto, I get 24-25 mpg on road trips keeping my foot out of it. Worst I've ever gotten is 18 and that's with mostly city driving and showing off keeping my foot into it a lot.

The 98 isn't necessarily a better DD. But you will be farther ahead with not only a newer car, but more stock power and a more technically advanced car due to the supporting hardware being better (no optispark on the 98). So unless you just don't like the look of the 98 as much, this should really be a no brianer.

300bhp/ton

The LS1 is fine, the truck variants use a cast iron block but these are very different from the cast iron Lt1 in your car.

You need to be seeing well over 1000bhp IMO to reap any benefit of cast iron block. And I do believe many of the top fuel and pro stock race engines are aluminium blocks.

What type of engine was it that overheated on you?

And if it warped the block then it was more than just a little overheating. Aluminium blocks are not new and hae been around for a long long time. If a car over heats it's more often than not the heads that warp, and I'm not certain but does the LT1 have aluminium heads?

Take the Rover V8 (Buick 215ci) this is an aluminium block push rod V8, it was designed and first used back in the mid 1950's. Warped blocks where not an issue right up until their last year of production in 2004.

Orange Terror

Yeah, I'm pretty sure LT1 heads are aluminum with that reverse flow cooling system too. Also, Top Fuel and Funny car, Pro stock, all use aluminum blocks to my knowledge. And Top Fuel and Funny car run what 5,000, maybe 6,000 hp now? Aluminum block are fine properly maintained.

98zcar

I used to own a 94 m6 years ago, and it was fun , lotsa low end torque. But this ls1 makes all that torque off idle all the way to redline. wicked fun IMO. It doesnt peter out up top like Lt1. My votes for Ls1. 98 m6 lid, 85mm maf, TB, ls6 intake, tsp rumbler catback

calz28

i see where you are coming from and i've been there before, i had a 94 lt1 formula, and i used to swear up and down that an ls1 was cheap and wouldn't out perform my lt1, till my friend got his 99' z and we raced i was so pissed when he beat me, but even though i own an ls1 now, i am still a firm believer that an lt1 sounds meaner than an ls1, but sound doesn't help

LittleSneak1

The heads on the lt1 aren't as well flowing as the ls1 heads, and the lt1's early era at least I'm pretty sure make low end power, while ls1 is more top end, I like both however.

Tony Shepherd

iTrader: (4)

Either would be a good choice. If you get the LT1....the extra money you save can go a long way to spank that stock 98. If you get the 98....it will spank the stock LT1. I like them both. You cant go wrong with either choice.

Genesis_26317

iTrader: (2)

If you are buying a used Camaro don't plan on performance mods to quickly though. Just getting back up to snuff/stock will take a bit of cash and work.

The front struts (spring over shocks) usually rust together making it a pain in the *** just to switch out for shocks that aren't blown, let alone lower springs. The rear end is probably leaking fluid (gotta change though seals before it STOPS leaking err...).

Then you have to swap out for new brake pads and rotors (probably new brake lines while you are at it).

Spark Plugs $60
Pads $45
Rotors $375
Brake Lines $55
Brake Fluid $20
Power Steering Flush $75
Radiator Flush $55
Transmission Flush $75
Oil Change/Flush $75 (I am just guessing on the last 2)
New Window Motors $75 (install is a b$tch)
Alignment $135 for 3 years unlimited
Air Filter/cleaner $10
Front Shocks $160-$250 (plus rusted crap, not to mention other major mishaps)
Rear Shocks $100-$200
maybe the alternator (mine needed to be swapped out it drove me nuts)

Those are just some basics. Just think whatever you save on the LT1 if going to make sure this entire list needs to be done, the LS1 will probably have this entire list as well. Also this entire list is if you do it yourself, have fun with spark plug number 8 (if you have egr) and the strut change.

bubba24

yah I don't wanna be bias but yah i would choose a ls1 also just cause its newer and faster, but i did buy a 95 lt1 and yah if i spent twice as much i could have bought a ls1, but this one i found in good shape and no one here has anything like it. All friends just have either crap tiburons or sunflowers. So for me the lt1 was a big leap above them. And also now i won't give up the lt1 no more, cause when i bought the car I had a transmission that was starting to slip so of coarse took it back to the dearship tore a strip out of them either take it back or fix it, they actually took it next door to them to a transmission specalist which i know and he actually hopped the transmission to the nuts, but made it seem like in the bill to the dealship it was just a rebuild stock tranny where now i got a racing one, and we had every other aspect of the car checked out, and nothing else wrong otherwise they would have been fixing more or else we were going to shove the car back. So its one great car now lol.

If you can afford better why not spend the extra if not get what u can afford and it will still be great.

infinitebird

iTrader: (11)

If money isn't a factor then definitely the ls1. But for the price of an LS1, you can easily get an LT1 plus enough mods to easily beat the ls1 (not similarly modded of course).