BuickMike

Hi there,

I'm registering here because I'm toying with the idea of possibly trading my Grand National for a LS1 TA. Even though I love my GN, I don't have that much time for it anymore and am thinking about something that can be more of a daily driver. Not that a Turbo regal can't be reliable and go fast, but in order to insure this thing for what it's worth I need to have classic car insurance which doesn't allow me to do much. My GN also needs some work (paint, interior, motor is a little tired) and I don't have the time now that I have a son. He's much more important. On top of all this the aftermarket is shrinking quickly for us and I'm afraid that all the parts will be gone by the time I'm ready to dig into this thing. I have to say if I go through with this I'll miss the massive torque when the turbo spools (over 500RWTQ @3000RPMs) and the fact that I currently would have a good 11 second car if I could hook right (need better tires), but I'm willing to look at something else just to see if I want to go that route.

So I'm curious, what are 6spd 98-00 LS1's with under 100K selling for typically?
Also, what are the usuall quirks / annoyances about these cars?
Any years to stay away from?
Also, what kind of combos make a solid 11 second F Body?

I'll start lurking around for info, but just figured someone could fill me in on the basics.

jessedale98

iTrader: (16)

Dont go with the m6,is ur making any kinda power ur gonna have to upgrade to a 12bolt right out of the gate, not to mention clutches ect. no year to look out for all good, but 00'-02 come with the ls6 manifold. My combo shoots me deep into the 11's when ever i want. good luck

dealership round 15k, private who knows!

QuickSilver T/A

The 01's and 02's had the LS6 intake manifold, not 00's.

QuickSilver T/A

Check for cracks on the top of the door panels near the window.

On Trans Am's make sure to test the headlight motors by turning the headlights on and off. Listen for a grinding noise either when headlight comes up or goes down. If so, budget headlight motors into the purchase price.

Look underneath vehicle to check for damage to the undercarriage. Numerous fbodies have been damaged by shops and people who do not know the correct lifting points.

If you have power windows check the action of the window motors. Slow or stop and go windows means the motor is on its last legs most likely.

On 6 speed cars test drive all gears and make sure that it doesnt come out of gear or that you have to hold the shifter in gear. Probably has bad synchros if so.

Listen for noises from the rear end on your test drive. Abnormal noises could mean its time for a rear end. If so, grab your ankles and your wallet.

Get underneath and look for rubber in the rear wheel wells. This means that someone was burning out at some point. With the relatively newer year fbodies it should be easy to find one that is unmolested.

As far as price goes it varies from state to state. The trend in general is that the value of fbodies is going down. Check ebay, the autotrader, and the newspaper to get a feel for pricing in your area. Use this to gauge if what you are looking at is a good or bad deal. If you want to ask me any questions or need any advice I would be glad to help in any way. Email me at thunderinaz@aol.com.

99camarosupersport

iTrader: (6)

not sure why he said don't go m6, sooner or later your going to have to upgrade the rear anyways ( the stock 10 bolt is poo ), get what you want simple as that when choosing tranny. i personally have a manual and wouldn't trade it for an auto these cars sometimes have piston slap, it's just annoying of anything else and the power windows will definately suck and slow and eventually go out. there is a sticky thread around here somewhere that will tell the differences between all the years. good luck man.

TTU98SS

iTrader: (5)

Im sorry but this is just ****** lame.

M6 and A4 have the same rear end genius. How do you figure a 6 speed guy is gonna need it any sooner. Heres my opinion. Get whichever one you want to drive A4 or M6. But if you wanna argue about durability the T56 is way stronger than the 4l60e, sorry bud.

Ace$nyper

iTrader: (8)

Both of the Trannies share a 10 bolt *crud at that* they do have differnt gears stock so they arn't the same really. Not to be a jerk just clear up for a noob.

I can't explain it someone who knows better might be able to, but 6spds are known for breaking **** fast my buddy has over 100K miles and is 14 I just killed mine at 80K hes auto i'm 6spd he drives alot harder too lol.

Both the trannies are strong as hell 4l60e is a monster though. I would agree get what you want though because both are good and its just up to if you like shiftin yourself.

98 Raptor TA

iTrader: (9)

6 spds's are definitley stronger than autos. Yes they go through rear ends faster but a rear end is a lot cheaper than an auto tranny rebuild. I had a LT1 auto, and spent $1800 on a rebuild that only lasted a year and started slipping in 2nd. So in my opinion, i'd rather have to rebuild the rear end every year or so than an auto tranny. Just my .02

99camarosupersport

iTrader: (6)

no way would i rebuild the stock 10 bolt, it would be stupid not to get a 12 bolt or a ford 9" and opt to try to build up the 10 bolt

98 Raptor TA

iTrader: (9)

True, i was just making the point that a rear end is alot cheaper to fix than an auto tranny. But if it was me, the first time my rear went out, i'd do a 12 bolt.