kozak

iTrader: (2)

Whats up guys so i am now an official ls1 owner just got a 1999 z28 m6, 23000 miles. i am not going to be real busy the first part of the summer so i was thinking of doing some bolt ons. it already has a flowmaster cat back, and some sort of trans am style ramair hood and ram air box ( haven't actually seen it yet, btw the ram air hood and box will be replaced by the stock hood and hopefully a lid when i get home, the ram air stuff will be for sale once i get it off if any one is interested). i was thinking of getting pacesetter long tubes and y pipe and a QTP e-cutout to finish exaust and a lid for intake. i was wonering if people have had any problems with the fitment of the headers because i've heard on lt-1's that pace setters needed some "coaxing" and chopping of the k member. is this true on the ls-1? does anyone have a e-cutout do you like it? and what do people suggest for a lid i know they are almost all the same but who has had the best results or least problems. i will prob think of more questions between now and the time you read this so be patient. thanks.

SailorZ28

That's really low mileage! What did you pay for it? I noticed your sig said you were looking at less than 9k. If you got it for that, you got yourself a good deal.

stevespewterZ

Congrats What color? We need pics!

Can't speak about mods, 'cause I have none.

2K2WS6TA

iTrader: (2)

Lid......I like the SLP lid ($80 off e bay) fits fine works good not alot of $$$$
catback.........meh Flowmaster isn't that great for flow (I'd get a different one myself)
cutout...... good idea quiet when you need it, loud when you want it
headers.....pacesetters, good low buck headers, fit well, at least on the LS1, you might have to grind the block tab to get them to fit, but usually they go in with little if any coaxing (that was the old design pacsetters that had the k member interference, they redesigned them to eliminate that)
Add in a set of bosch 13111 o2 sensors, and either some o2 sims or a tune to keep the SES light from coming on, and maybe some plugs, just in case you damage one when installing or removing the manifolds/headers
BTW we need pics of the new ride

blkZ28spt

Help us help you. Use proper punctuation, paragraphs, etc, the harder posts are to read the fewer people will do it, and the less feedback you will get.

Ditch the flowcrapper catback. I would sell it and pick something up that will not restrict your power. If you go with the plan to install a cutout I recommend a Magnaflow, SLP dual/dual or Hooker cat-back. Quiet (relatively speaking) and high flow.

A lid is a lid is a lid.

Pacesetters should be fine, they are the LS1tech favorite "bang for the buck" headers.

kozak

iTrader: (2)

yeah it will be about a week before i can get pics up, i actually haven't seen the car in person yet but my dad picked it up from the seller and he said it looks very nice and pulls great (it is bark blue i think it is NBM). 2K2WS6TA are you talking about the front bolt hole for the headers, i've seen/heard that it is easier to install the headers with half the hole ground away so you can start the front bolt then hang the hearers from it while you start the back bolt. as for the flow master as long as it sounds good/decent i will keep it. if i really feel the need for max flow and power that is what the cutout is for. plugs are a good idea any suggestions on which to buy if it really matters? and what about o2 sims and sensors? why would i run sims and sensors aren't the sims supposed to take the place of sensors? i though you ran them when you had race headers with no o2 bungs just to keep the ecu happy.
oh yeah and another reason i am keeping the flow crap is because i am on a budget i figure around 6-$700 for headers, lid, y pipe, and cutout. and whatever else i can't think of.

sailor - i didn't pay 9,000 it was more but lese than $15,000 thats all i'll say for now.

bad punctuation, grammer = lazy + at work + type fast + different keyboard

2K2WS6TA

iTrader: (2)

No I was talking about the square casting tab on the side of the block by the oil filter, as for cutting half a hole in the header flange, i used some cut off bolts, and an old jack stand under the primary to hold the header up, but you can cut the hole if you want (that'll work too)
Plugs, the NGK TR55s are the usual choice, tho the delco iridiums are getting popular, it really makes no difference, it's a prefereance based on budget and availability
The sims and sensors, the sims are for the rear o2s, those are eliminated if running an off road Y pipe, so you need to plug in some sims into the rear o2 harness to keep the SES light from going off.
The boschs are for the front, they have a stronger heater that can help get rid of the slow switching code that the stock ones sometimes throw. You can get the sims and sensors thru many of the sponsors listed on the right side of the page
BTW You absolutely need the front o2s for the car to run right
Figure $500 for the headers and y, then add $125 for the o2s (you can try the stock o2s, but you'll need extensions, aka longer wires) then the sims for $73, a lid is ~$80, cut out is ~$200 for a QTP electric

kozak

iTrader: (2)

ok so the secondary o2's go into or near the cat. i just redid the exaust and turbo/intercooler tubing for my friends car and he had a bung in his cat for an o2. anyone interested in the hood and ram air lid? hu, hu it's really nice.

sgt0704

iTrader: (3)

why does flowmaster suck so bad? is it the type of motor? i had no issues with my 40 series on my third gen 305.

blkZ28spt

Not all flowmaster mufflers are created equal, apparently. The F-body flowmaster cat-back is notorious for restrictive flow. Search around here on tech, you will see. Sounds good, but doesn't flow nearly as well as other aftermarket cat-backs.