Im new to this site and the LS1.
10-30-2006, 01:15 AM
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Im new to this site and the LS1. Im am highly considering replacing my 99 mustang with an LS1 Fbody. Most of my knowledge is in the 4.6 2v. I had noticed that the engine compartment in the ls1 is very crammed, how do you guys work on these machines with out removing anything.
I was also very instrested in modding the ls1 into a street/strip machine.
I had noticed that most of you guys are running a big cam and making increddibale power. What types of gains can i expect to see from the basic boltons and full exhaust (LT's O/R Midpipe, catback)?
I would also like to run some low gears out back eventually. (411's or lower)
Im am pretty stuck in my modular ways and was just looking for some opions.
I was also very instrested in modding the ls1 into a street/strip machine.
I had noticed that most of you guys are running a big cam and making increddibale power. What types of gains can i expect to see from the basic boltons and full exhaust (LT's O/R Midpipe, catback)?
I would also like to run some low gears out back eventually. (411's or lower)
Im am pretty stuck in my modular ways and was just looking for some opions.
10-30-2006, 03:23 AM
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I was really looking at the earler Ls1's manily due to price, But i havent completly given up on the late model ones, I found a Beauty about 15 miles away at a dealership its an 02 Z28 M6 with 36k and they want 13,750. The main reason i am switching to the darkside (no offense) is im tired of no goin anywhere with the 4.62v. She needs 4v heads and the swap is too pricey and ineffiecent as far as performance per dollar goes.
This LS1 would mainly be a DD for a few months and then she would be retired to weekend status only, I have read a few posts about adding an aggressive cam, what kind of gains might i see with a modderate street/strip cam with out going forged internals.
Also what does a bone stock LS1 Dyno through the M6?? I believe they are rated at 350 FWhp from the factory so im guessing 290's maybe 300 at best?? Just curious.
This LS1 would mainly be a DD for a few months and then she would be retired to weekend status only, I have read a few posts about adding an aggressive cam, what kind of gains might i see with a modderate street/strip cam with out going forged internals.
Also what does a bone stock LS1 Dyno through the M6?? I believe they are rated at 350 FWhp from the factory so im guessing 290's maybe 300 at best?? Just curious.
10-30-2006, 05:41 AM
#4
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Originally Posted by straitwangin
Also what does a bone stock LS1 Dyno through the M6?? I believe they are rated at 350 FWhp from the factory so im guessing 290's maybe 300 at best?? Just curious.
10-30-2006, 05:47 AM
#5
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As you know dyno #s will vary but on average ahealthy LS1 F-Body should dyno between 290>310 rwhp. yes we do get "freaks".
A cam only + full bolt ons car can reach in excess of 420rwhp (depending on the monster cam, tuning). But for a good street/strip DD 380>400 is obtainable (with a good 230 duration range cam)
we can shove up to 242/248 range in our babies without flycutting (T-Rex cam). but that is usualy drag setup (there are poeple DDing that setup though)
In NA version, the LS1/LS2/LS6 motor is hard to beat for the price.
Be advised that on M6s once you reach higher HP potential a 12 bolt or Ford 9 inch differential is in order. The 10 bolt will grenade itself. This is less true for A4s (I still run mine but upgraded).
A cam only + full bolt ons car can reach in excess of 420rwhp (depending on the monster cam, tuning). But for a good street/strip DD 380>400 is obtainable (with a good 230 duration range cam)
we can shove up to 242/248 range in our babies without flycutting (T-Rex cam). but that is usualy drag setup (there are poeple DDing that setup though)
In NA version, the LS1/LS2/LS6 motor is hard to beat for the price.
Be advised that on M6s once you reach higher HP potential a 12 bolt or Ford 9 inch differential is in order. The 10 bolt will grenade itself. This is less true for A4s (I still run mine but upgraded).
10-30-2006, 06:42 AM
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The engine bay really isn't as tight as it looks. It is somewhat deceiving with the coil packs on the valve covers, air intake box, and all of the emissions equipment. If you take 10-15 minutes to remove those items, it really opens up the engine bay and you can do most maintenance items pretty easily.
It is difficult to get to the #6,8 spark plugs, but having the proper socket extension makes it a whole lot easier. Most guys here can change spark plugs in about an hour. Compared to the LT1 f-body, the LS1 engine bay is a piece of cake.
I've seen pure bolt on cars in the 360-370 rwhp range. Most people shoot for around 400 rwhp with a cam swap, but many people have gotten into the 420 rwhp range with more radical cams.
If you want to run 4.11 gears, you will need at least a 12-bolt rear-end...the stock 10-bolt is barely adeqaute and in some case inadequate for stock hp cars. There is a strong possibility that you will frag the 10-bolt if you step up the gear ratio.
It is difficult to get to the #6,8 spark plugs, but having the proper socket extension makes it a whole lot easier. Most guys here can change spark plugs in about an hour. Compared to the LT1 f-body, the LS1 engine bay is a piece of cake.
I've seen pure bolt on cars in the 360-370 rwhp range. Most people shoot for around 400 rwhp with a cam swap, but many people have gotten into the 420 rwhp range with more radical cams.
If you want to run 4.11 gears, you will need at least a 12-bolt rear-end...the stock 10-bolt is barely adeqaute and in some case inadequate for stock hp cars. There is a strong possibility that you will frag the 10-bolt if you step up the gear ratio.
