03 LS6 heads&cam
11-29-2006, 12:06 AM
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03 LS6 heads&cam Hi, I was wondering how much rear wheel hp can I get if I put a stock 03 LS6 heads & cam in my 98 ls1 M6? What kind of tuning do I need? Can my stock fuel system work with this setup? Once I install this setup can I use a maft translator? And what setting should I set the maft translator at if I get one? Also, What should I do with my stock oil pump? Do i need to upgrade? Any info will be highly appreciated and THANKS everyone
11-29-2006, 06:04 AM
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with those heads and cam and a ls6 manifold....you might be around 380 give or take some, its a very small cam and youd be better off going with a 224/224 cam with those heads....a stock tune on those stock parts would be fine, and youd need a new oil pump def......a maf translator is something used for a v6 car, and you dont need one....i think that covers all your ?s
11-29-2006, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by staringback05
with those heads and cam and a ls6 manifold....you might be around 380 give or take some, its a very small cam and youd be better off going with a 224/224 cam with those heads....a stock tune on those stock parts would be fine, and youd need a new oil pump def......a maf translator is something used for a v6 car, and you dont need one....i think that covers all your ?s
They're are definately better cams than the LS6. If you're going to go through the trouble of a cam swap, might as well go bigger. The LS6 heads are good. Get the car professionally tuned afterward. It's not a have to, but I'd even recommend stock cars to get retuned.
11-29-2006, 01:05 PM
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MAFT works for the big end but it's the low end
that the cam is going to whack and there the MAF
only plays a bit part, so does "translating" it. A
good street tune is going to be pretty desirable
for any cam where Duration/2 is greater than LSA
(rule of thumb). This is not true of the LS6, any
baby or "stealth" or "old man" cam; these need
little if any tuning. When Dur/2=LSA you are kind
of on the edge of it. A 224@110 is a lumpy-*** and
torquey one, a 224@112 is still lumpy and needs a
tune for low end / idle drivability, a 224@114 some
people are content with untuned and a 224@116 is
going to be near undetectable (but nowhere near
as torquey at lower RPM).
About the only virtue of LS6 cams is the price (and
use of stock valvesprings etc., which adds to price
on more aggressive builds).
that the cam is going to whack and there the MAF
only plays a bit part, so does "translating" it. A
good street tune is going to be pretty desirable
for any cam where Duration/2 is greater than LSA
(rule of thumb). This is not true of the LS6, any
baby or "stealth" or "old man" cam; these need
little if any tuning. When Dur/2=LSA you are kind
of on the edge of it. A 224@110 is a lumpy-*** and
torquey one, a 224@112 is still lumpy and needs a
tune for low end / idle drivability, a 224@114 some
people are content with untuned and a 224@116 is
going to be near undetectable (but nowhere near
as torquey at lower RPM).
About the only virtue of LS6 cams is the price (and
use of stock valvesprings etc., which adds to price
on more aggressive builds).
12-05-2006, 12:27 PM
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id have to say if your gonna do heads and a ls6 or an old man cam....i personally have ls6 heads with and old man cam ..cartek M..and the ls6 intake....go for the tuning session on the dyno..squeeze out ever bit of hp you can...while there you gonna smooth out the idle disable CAGS..kill an annoying SES lights..happens when u add the long tubes....i personally prefer to do things as a package...engine package..suspension package....you get the idea...