ported maf sensor???.......explain
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No I have a filter and I also had a delphi maf sensor laying around (from when someone took my slp on and left me the delphi) so i descreened it in put it in my new slp one.
okay, i have a question. Let's say you took your stock MAF and ported it but did not remove the screen. Then you went directly to a shop to have it dynotuned. Would it be worth it then to port the MAF or no?
Originally Posted by jimmypop13
okay, i have a question. Let's say you took your stock MAF and ported it but did not remove the screen. Then you went directly to a shop to have it dynotuned. Would it be worth it then to port the MAF or no?
Using common sense I would think that would be ok retuning for the modified Maf. You would think on a bone stock setup it would have little to no effect, but with a cam, heads, intake and/or exhaust it should help. An engine is an air pump, the more air and fuel you move thru it the more power you can make. But who knows, i guess you have to wait for the Tech guys to chime in.
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From: The 'Burgh, PA
The Taco is right - don't mess with the MAF. You will gain little to nothing and will be taking unnecessary risks. If you are out of money or ideas for new mods, then crack a beer and allow the urge to mess with your MAF to pass. 
Staging Lane
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For the record, the last time I messed with a MAF(trying to clean it with "MAF cleaner" from Kragen) I ended up breaking it.
Dunno how. Its a spray and it smells an awful lot like starting fluid. But a MAF sensor on an 88 Supra is quite an expansive mistake to make. So my vote is to leave the sensor alone.
I thought, and I could vary well be completely wrong, but doesn't a MAF sensor work directly off of the screen? I was told that as oxygen passed the MAFs screen it excited the wire and generate voltage which the ECU registers and then calibrates the amount of fuel.
I assume my information was wrong, but how far off is it?
Dunno how. Its a spray and it smells an awful lot like starting fluid. But a MAF sensor on an 88 Supra is quite an expansive mistake to make. So my vote is to leave the sensor alone.
I thought, and I could vary well be completely wrong, but doesn't a MAF sensor work directly off of the screen? I was told that as oxygen passed the MAFs screen it excited the wire and generate voltage which the ECU registers and then calibrates the amount of fuel.
I assume my information was wrong, but how far off is it?
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From: The 'Burgh, PA
Wiseassjester's sig:
Current projects:
79 Z28 built & nitroused.
99 Cavalier built, turboed, nitroused.
89 Dodge Daytona built, turboed, nitroused.
Hey Wiseassjester - I just realized that my sig makes fun of your sig (the wreckless use of the term "built")!
Current projects:
79 Z28 built & nitroused.
99 Cavalier built, turboed, nitroused.
89 Dodge Daytona built, turboed, nitroused.
Hey Wiseassjester - I just realized that my sig makes fun of your sig (the wreckless use of the term "built")!
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Originally Posted by JohnnyC
Hey Wiseassjester - I just realized that my sig makes fun of your sig (the wreckless use of the term "built")!
That aside, a motor'd hjave to be built in order to run. After all, a pile of crap sitting unassembled wont go far under its own ability.
And the usage of the word built, as referenced in my signature, refers to forged internals, cam, head(S), intake exhaust. So on so forth. And we're proud of them.
The Daytona, imparticular, is a very clean setup.
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From: The 'Burgh, PA
Originally Posted by WiseAssJester
And the usage of the word built, as referenced in my signature, refers to forged internals, cam, head(S), intake exhaust. So on so forth. And we're proud of them.
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Originally Posted by WiseAssJester
For the record, the last time I messed with a MAF(trying to clean it with "MAF cleaner" from Kragen) I ended up breaking it.
Dunno how. Its a spray and it smells an awful lot like starting fluid. But a MAF sensor on an 88 Supra is quite an expansive mistake to make. So my vote is to leave the sensor alone.
I thought, and I could vary well be completely wrong, but doesn't a MAF sensor work directly off of the screen? I was told that as oxygen passed the MAFs screen it excited the wire and generate voltage which the ECU registers and then calibrates the amount of fuel.
I assume my information was wrong, but how far off is it?
Dunno how. Its a spray and it smells an awful lot like starting fluid. But a MAF sensor on an 88 Supra is quite an expansive mistake to make. So my vote is to leave the sensor alone.
I thought, and I could vary well be completely wrong, but doesn't a MAF sensor work directly off of the screen? I was told that as oxygen passed the MAFs screen it excited the wire and generate voltage which the ECU registers and then calibrates the amount of fuel.
I assume my information was wrong, but how far off is it?
not really
in the MAF, there are 2 hotwires. they computer runs a voltage through them and they get really hot. hot = less return voltage. but with air moving across the hotwire, it gets cooled and conducts more electricity. the computer uses this voltage to calibrate fuel
Originally Posted by CrawlinRS
What I wanna know is how is poop, leaves, grass and small children getting past your air filter ?
What the hell that's why you have an air filter. There should be nothing big getting past that.
There's a right-up over at InstallUniversity for porting the MAF sensor. Don't know how much more flow it adds but it can and has been done successfully before. Of course you have to know what you're doing to not screw it up. 
I could swear that little 3.5" stock MAF is a flow restriction, but just have no data to prove it. I know plenty of people (including me) running the calibrated PACE 85 mm MAF sensor without a hitch.
I could swear that little 3.5" stock MAF is a flow restriction, but just have no data to prove it. I know plenty of people (including me) running the calibrated PACE 85 mm MAF sensor without a hitch.
True, the MAF is calibrated to report airflow through it as it is stock. If you descreen or port it to allow more air, it won't be giving the computer the correct information. So tuning is needed. An aftermarket MAF is set up to report the airflow it's capable of. So if you want to put in a larger or ported MAF, go with aftermarket and keep your stocker with you just in case the car decides it doesn't like the aftermarket one. My SS came with the GMS MAF installed and I have the stock one as well. No problems with the GMS which has no screen. It can definitely flow more air because it doesn't have that center flow divider. I don't know if I would spend the money on it, but it was on my car so I'm using it.
From my experience with these things, usually putting on a larger maf will actually make the car run a little better. Only because it causes the computer to run the car leaner. Get HP Tuners or EFI Live and a WBO2 and tune in the correct A/F ratio and your car will not show any gains at all. In most cases, some cars actually lose HP. Not alot but I have seen it happen on multiple cars. Most peoples incomes will not allow them to max-out the factory maf, so dont waste your money or time on porting one or buying a larger one. For those people who have the money, get rid of the maf and go Speed-Density. Just my .02. Later.............
Teching In
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Screened MAF On my 2004 gto the maf is not screened itself the maf housing is screened.
Now when I put it on a sun machine and cross tuned the ecm with the maf and resoldered the resistors on the maf grid. I noted only a .03 increase in fuel air mixture efficiency. The stock sensor assembly housing has a screen and a air flow foil for a dense charge with the graphite composite intake manifold. But with my tuning methods at idle insted of .67 .66 usage I run a .57 to point .54 which is more efficient. and get 25mpg to 27mpg with the automatic trans freeing up hp and fuel efficiency at lower idle. I substituted the entire housing with a granetelli housing. But the truth in the matter is it would be considered a negligable amount for performance tuning.
Now when I put it on a sun machine and cross tuned the ecm with the maf and resoldered the resistors on the maf grid. I noted only a .03 increase in fuel air mixture efficiency. The stock sensor assembly housing has a screen and a air flow foil for a dense charge with the graphite composite intake manifold. But with my tuning methods at idle insted of .67 .66 usage I run a .57 to point .54 which is more efficient. and get 25mpg to 27mpg with the automatic trans freeing up hp and fuel efficiency at lower idle. I substituted the entire housing with a granetelli housing. But the truth in the matter is it would be considered a negligable amount for performance tuning.
