4:10 gears?
#2
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it will help out the accleration, it helps in all the gears but makes 5th and 6th much more responsive. but i dont know why you would want to make them more responsive... they are there to save you gas.
you do know your rpms will be higher than before right, like 60 in 6th is about 1300 or so, it will be atleast 1500 more than likely higher.
you do know your rpms will be higher than before right, like 60 in 6th is about 1300 or so, it will be atleast 1500 more than likely higher.
#3
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The final drive ratio tells you how many rotations of the imput shaft on the diff will result in 1 rotation of the wheel.
Stock manual Ls1's have 3.42:1
Giving it a lower ratio, which incidently is a higher number like 4.10:1 means the input shaft has to turn more times in order to rotate the wheels 1 revolution.
People swap gears because less effort of the lower gearing means the car will accelarate faster. The penalty is lower terminal speed in gear and higher crusing rpms.
It like the gears on a moutain push bike. If you select the smallest cog at the pedals it's easier to pedal (less effort) however you reach top speed very quickly. Is you used the largest gear at the pedals it requires a lot of effort to move from a standstill and is slow accelaration but offers much higher top speed.
Changing the final drive will affect every gear (1st thru 6th) in the same manner. 4.10's mean you will have better accelaration than before in that gear but you'll have to change gear more frequently because you won't be able to go as fast in each gear.
MPG might be affected, but 6th is such a tall gear that I doubt you'd see a massive affect on fuel economy.
Most people opt for 4.10 gears with a manual or sometimes 3.73's. If you plan on upgrading the rear end to a 12 bolt then 3.90:1 is also an option.
If I had a manual Ls1 I'd go for 4.10:1 every time.
There a link to a gear calculator in my sig. You may find it helpful in seeing what affect gearing will have on shift points and terminal speed in gear.
Stock manual Ls1's have 3.42:1
Giving it a lower ratio, which incidently is a higher number like 4.10:1 means the input shaft has to turn more times in order to rotate the wheels 1 revolution.
People swap gears because less effort of the lower gearing means the car will accelarate faster. The penalty is lower terminal speed in gear and higher crusing rpms.
It like the gears on a moutain push bike. If you select the smallest cog at the pedals it's easier to pedal (less effort) however you reach top speed very quickly. Is you used the largest gear at the pedals it requires a lot of effort to move from a standstill and is slow accelaration but offers much higher top speed.
Changing the final drive will affect every gear (1st thru 6th) in the same manner. 4.10's mean you will have better accelaration than before in that gear but you'll have to change gear more frequently because you won't be able to go as fast in each gear.
MPG might be affected, but 6th is such a tall gear that I doubt you'd see a massive affect on fuel economy.
Most people opt for 4.10 gears with a manual or sometimes 3.73's. If you plan on upgrading the rear end to a 12 bolt then 3.90:1 is also an option.
If I had a manual Ls1 I'd go for 4.10:1 every time.
There a link to a gear calculator in my sig. You may find it helpful in seeing what affect gearing will have on shift points and terminal speed in gear.
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If it were me changing gears Id get some 3.73's because with 4.10s depending on wheel/tire size you tend to run outta gears in the 1/4(5th and 6h are overdrives).
3.73's are the best of both worlds, and if you get to excited launching an M6 car with 4.10s and your tires are sticky enough....might as well say goodbye to your rearend.
3.73's are the best of both worlds, and if you get to excited launching an M6 car with 4.10s and your tires are sticky enough....might as well say goodbye to your rearend.
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Originally Posted by cknhwk
whats the diff beweeed a 373 an a 410 gear.....
n/a an with n20... in times...
both ways.... an et....... what uuu thing...
n/a an with n20... in times...
both ways.... an et....... what uuu thing...
what the hell did you just say...?
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#10
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Knew a guy with 4.10's in a Z28, they were awesome. Your mpg wont be affected much if at all, only a couple more hundred rpms at highway speeds. The only drawback would be having to hold your breath everytime you launch on the stock 10 bolt. The guy I know had his crap out on him after about 5,000 miles. They are a great gear tho, every Mustang guy I know uses them as well.
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For a comprehensive look at how fast you will go in each gear, with various rear ends, check out my gear ratio page:
http://ubfm.net/ratios.htm
4.10s were fun, but they got old real quick. Too much shifting during normal driving. I found myself skipping gears all the time, and even then it was too much shifting.
But they are quick! They spool up fast! You might run out of gear if you are heads/cam or N02 though. Meaning, you'll have to shift into 5th in the quarter mile, which would be a problem...
3.73 would be the perfect gear for ls1s. Not too steep (numerically high) but more gear than stock.
http://ubfm.net/ratios.htm
4.10s were fun, but they got old real quick. Too much shifting during normal driving. I found myself skipping gears all the time, and even then it was too much shifting.
But they are quick! They spool up fast! You might run out of gear if you are heads/cam or N02 though. Meaning, you'll have to shift into 5th in the quarter mile, which would be a problem...
3.73 would be the perfect gear for ls1s. Not too steep (numerically high) but more gear than stock.
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I've had 4.11's in my car for about 5 months now. I absolutely love them. The acceleration is so much faster with these over my factory gears. And hell, even at 80 MPH, I'm only turning 2K on the tach. I also did the swap in consideration for a bigger cam. So if you are wanting a nice big cam, chances are you'll be wanting a steeper gear in the rear to compensate for the loss in the low-end grunt.
The only thing that I do not like about the 4.11's is their use on the track. with just some simple bolt-ons and street tires (315/35/17) I was at redline in 4th by the time I finished. Now with more power, I'm forced to shift into 5th But then again, that's not a big concern of mine since I rarely go to the track...
The only thing that I do not like about the 4.11's is their use on the track. with just some simple bolt-ons and street tires (315/35/17) I was at redline in 4th by the time I finished. Now with more power, I'm forced to shift into 5th But then again, that's not a big concern of mine since I rarely go to the track...
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Originally Posted by LS1Formulation
Raise your rev limiter. If you know you're going to be hitting a higher trap speed than the rev limiter will allow, just notch it up a bit. 6600 RPM should let you hit 120 in the 1/4.
Bumpig up the rev limiter will solve the problem. And if you had heads and cam you would have done this anyway.
With stock 3.42's 4th gear is just about useless because you hit the traps around 5000 rpm. Even a stock car has another 1000 rpm of pull.