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01-06-2007, 03:48 AM
#22
I wish I had my own shop! I'm just an enthusiest like most other people here 
And I know right where Channahon is.. I did a lot of work in Amberliegh Estates down at Ridge Road and Rt 6.
A 231/237 will fit (on any reasonable split) under stock heads. LS6 heads are at an all time low price from sponsors here. Should do a quick search on those. I've seen complete LS6 heads for 450 a pair, 900 a pair ported. 918's are fine for X-ER lobes. Not for LSK lobes though. Gas mileage will suffer some, but more from the heavy right foot mod than the cam, given your tune is good. That stall will work too, even better with the bigger lobes than I suggested. If you want to go with the 231/237, get it on as tight an LSA you can, like a 110-111, with 2-3 degrees advance ground in. (for low end torque you want the intake valve to close sooner than later - increases dynamic compression, so you want a lower intake lobe centerline, especially with longer duration intake lobes. However, the rub here is, the farther you advance it, the tighter PTV clearance gets). This may be a bit lopey though, and may surge a bit on an A4. I'll try to find out more. Might be better to go on a 112+2 and mill the heads a few CC's to increase compression... I'm still trying to learn about Valve Events myself, so forgive me if I sound like I'm teaching or something, it's more just me working it out in my head while typing.
I'm happy to help with anything I can. If you have any questions feel free to ask.
And I know right where Channahon is.. I did a lot of work in Amberliegh Estates down at Ridge Road and Rt 6.
A 231/237 will fit (on any reasonable split) under stock heads. LS6 heads are at an all time low price from sponsors here. Should do a quick search on those. I've seen complete LS6 heads for 450 a pair, 900 a pair ported. 918's are fine for X-ER lobes. Not for LSK lobes though. Gas mileage will suffer some, but more from the heavy right foot mod than the cam, given your tune is good. That stall will work too, even better with the bigger lobes than I suggested. If you want to go with the 231/237, get it on as tight an LSA you can, like a 110-111, with 2-3 degrees advance ground in. (for low end torque you want the intake valve to close sooner than later - increases dynamic compression, so you want a lower intake lobe centerline, especially with longer duration intake lobes. However, the rub here is, the farther you advance it, the tighter PTV clearance gets). This may be a bit lopey though, and may surge a bit on an A4. I'll try to find out more. Might be better to go on a 112+2 and mill the heads a few CC's to increase compression... I'm still trying to learn about Valve Events myself, so forgive me if I sound like I'm teaching or something, it's more just me working it out in my head while typing.
I'm happy to help with anything I can. If you have any questions feel free to ask.
01-06-2007, 11:30 AM
#23
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man theres no appologies for teaching. im loving all of the information you are giving me, i really appreciate it. im not to worried about it being lopey i love the sound of the of my car getting ready to kill someone. haha. i may be looking into getting some ported ls6 heads so that it can breath a little better. i still am looking for a good deal on an ls6 intake for my car right now. i figure ill buy all of the parts and then wait a little bit and right down all the stats that i want the shop to do. so if you figure anything else let me know. thanks again
01-09-2007, 02:28 AM
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one more question going to pick up some ls6 heads that are stage 2 milled 30. im looking into getting the 231/237...possibly even a little bigger. these heads should work perfectly right?
01-09-2007, 12:04 PM
#27
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make sure you have $2,000 for a built trans. the stock 4L60E cannot take high RPM's, and the minute you up your shift points, the 4L60E is on borrowed time. it could last a few months. it could blow in 3 days. it all depends how well it's been taken care of.
if i were you, my first mod would be the LS6 intake and the FTRA. after that, get a built tranny. you can get a built tranny WITH a 3500 stall for ~$2,000. the whole trans and stall combo will be warranted, then. that's what i'd recommend.
once you have your tranny toughened up, then cam your car. IMO, getting the stall and built tranny combo will save you money in the long run and insure that your entire tranny is fully warranted.
if i were you, my first mod would be the LS6 intake and the FTRA. after that, get a built tranny. you can get a built tranny WITH a 3500 stall for ~$2,000. the whole trans and stall combo will be warranted, then. that's what i'd recommend.
once you have your tranny toughened up, then cam your car. IMO, getting the stall and built tranny combo will save you money in the long run and insure that your entire tranny is fully warranted.
01-10-2007, 01:33 AM
#28
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not really planning on racing the car for about another year or so. it will be strictly daily driven until i get the transmission. i have a couple of friends who have raced the hell out of their stock trans but i dont trust it enough to do that. i will prolly just wait on the transmission. a transmission for 2gs bette be one of the best. i will prolly just go ahead and but a used built trans and have a trans shop install a converter. that is a little farther down the road though. still looking for advice thanks guys
01-11-2007, 09:15 AM
#29
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Not to be an antagonist or anything but there are tons of people running on the stock transmission, with about the same amount of mods. If you are bracket racing, or even racing in the quarter mile lots, then yea it's a good idea. But if you just have a daily driver, and only go WOT once in a while, it's probably not worth it to get a completely rebuilt transmission just for that.
01-11-2007, 12:01 PM
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thanks lsx24. i do agree with this one i just have to be careful cause i have 91000 on the car. im not to worried about it blowing cause like u said its only going to be wot every once in a while. im just gonna stall the stock one for right now for a couple of months or so.
