S/C'ing a stock LS1
#21
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Originally Posted by Marky Mark
Thanks for all the input guys. Ill be looking into all of this, this follow week to see where I'm headed. I've been searching for a blown SS or even a WS6 and there's no good news in finding any anywhere. Unless one of you guys can link me to a autotrader or recycler ad?
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Get the car and see how you like it and how it feels before planning the blower. Think about the other things you might need to replace when you bolt on +140 HP without changing anything else. You said money is a factor...do you have money to pay for a new clutch,wear and tear on the rear end and tranny, etc? Going to upgrade the suspension to help put down all that power? How about a set of good tires?
Get the car and see what you think first...a tragic mistake is to make plans for so far in the future with the car when you dont even have it yet.
Ohh, and if your deadset on having a blown one, why not try and buy one already blown with other supporting mods? It will be way cheaper in the long run.
to the OP: a supercharger installation should run you over $10,000. it'll be roughly $7,000 to get that supercharger system installed and tuned, plus another $3,000 for a new rear end and clutch, installed, which you WILL need, and another $1,000 for a fuel system upgrade. you're gonna need a new high output fuel pump and new injectors, don't forget. since you're going to drive an M6, you could PROBABLY get away with the stock transmission as they're pretty tough, assuming you know how to drive it. if you were driving an A4, you'd have to buy a new tranny, but you'd probably be okay with the stock rear, so that's a tradeoff. don't forget another $1,000 for suspension mods and new tires.
expect to pay $10,000 - $12,000 if you want to properly supercharge your car. if you leave out any of these steps, you'll regret it when you find yourself stranded somewhere. make no mistake about it, if you supercharge your car and see another 140rwhp out of it, you WILL break your rear end. a stock M6 can break the stock 10-bolt, so do you have any idea how easy it will be when you're putting down 450rwhp? that's right, VERY easy. the spider gears in your torsen will turn to dust, you'll chip your pinions and you will snap your axles. it's not a matter of if, but when. invest in a nice 9" rear end and never worry about it again.
actually, i think bob at EPP can hook you up with a new rear end, too. you could probably schedule the supercharger install, fuel system upgrade, tune and rear end swap all at the same time if you want. who knows, maybe he'll even cut you a deal as you'll be giving him one hell of a sale. i hear nothing but good things about bob, and if i were ever going to supercharge my car (i'd love a D-1SC kit ), i think it would be worth it to take a week off from work and see him
Get the car and see what you think first...a tragic mistake is to make plans for so far in the future with the car when you dont even have it yet.
Ohh, and if your deadset on having a blown one, why not try and buy one already blown with other supporting mods? It will be way cheaper in the long run.
to the OP: a supercharger installation should run you over $10,000. it'll be roughly $7,000 to get that supercharger system installed and tuned, plus another $3,000 for a new rear end and clutch, installed, which you WILL need, and another $1,000 for a fuel system upgrade. you're gonna need a new high output fuel pump and new injectors, don't forget. since you're going to drive an M6, you could PROBABLY get away with the stock transmission as they're pretty tough, assuming you know how to drive it. if you were driving an A4, you'd have to buy a new tranny, but you'd probably be okay with the stock rear, so that's a tradeoff. don't forget another $1,000 for suspension mods and new tires.
expect to pay $10,000 - $12,000 if you want to properly supercharge your car. if you leave out any of these steps, you'll regret it when you find yourself stranded somewhere. make no mistake about it, if you supercharge your car and see another 140rwhp out of it, you WILL break your rear end. a stock M6 can break the stock 10-bolt, so do you have any idea how easy it will be when you're putting down 450rwhp? that's right, VERY easy. the spider gears in your torsen will turn to dust, you'll chip your pinions and you will snap your axles. it's not a matter of if, but when. invest in a nice 9" rear end and never worry about it again.
actually, i think bob at EPP can hook you up with a new rear end, too. you could probably schedule the supercharger install, fuel system upgrade, tune and rear end swap all at the same time if you want. who knows, maybe he'll even cut you a deal as you'll be giving him one hell of a sale. i hear nothing but good things about bob, and if i were ever going to supercharge my car (i'd love a D-1SC kit ), i think it would be worth it to take a week off from work and see him
+1 for ALL that, damn right
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Well off the bat, I'm not going to be purchasing a M6, I'll be going the route of getting an A4. So if I was to S/C my SS it would highly recommened for new to upgrade the rear end, suspension, fuel injectors, and the transmission? So just running the D-1SC right off the get go on the stock SS itself could link me to damage to the car itself? Because I thought that some S/C kits were built to be put on the vehicle, dyno, tune, and your ready to run?
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You will only break your rear end if you are dumping the clutch or leaving hard off the converter. I have run my z28 with the 250 shot on the fly and the 10 bolt did not break. All 12 or so times I have done it. a 12 bolt is a mandatory upgrade for racing, but for daily driving and spirited on ramps and highway runs...it is not a necessity.
Run the D1!!! Just keep the boost at a manageable level (5-6psi) until you get the car into the comfort zone for more power. If I recall I think that you can crank the D1SC up to 30#'s. IS that a good plan? Maybe not, but if you eventually have a 4 link suspension and back halfed car...sure! You would get over 1200 rwhp at that high of a level, and the procharger would still be at around 90% capacity. So you only limit yourself on how much power you are making only by the supporting mods and safety equipment you choose to run.
The 4l60e is not the worlds strongest tranny by any means! I run a 4l60 non-electric manual valve body and it is a hard hitter. Full internals and hardend shafts. It can take a railing for sure. I would suggest a TH-400 if you are serious....only if you are. This also brings to the table, converters. Make sure that you factor in the money for a stall. They are not tthe cheapest things in the world, but will make a huge difference in power...and sad to say, your more frequent business to the gas station. But, it seems as though you are concerned with gas mileage, so maybe none of this is for you.
Just a thought. You can really only have one or the other. Good gas mileage or great performance! Sure with endless money, you could probably work in a way with a 6 speed transmission to have awesome mileage, but you might want to ask yourself if this is something you are wanting to do?
Run the D1!!! Just keep the boost at a manageable level (5-6psi) until you get the car into the comfort zone for more power. If I recall I think that you can crank the D1SC up to 30#'s. IS that a good plan? Maybe not, but if you eventually have a 4 link suspension and back halfed car...sure! You would get over 1200 rwhp at that high of a level, and the procharger would still be at around 90% capacity. So you only limit yourself on how much power you are making only by the supporting mods and safety equipment you choose to run.
The 4l60e is not the worlds strongest tranny by any means! I run a 4l60 non-electric manual valve body and it is a hard hitter. Full internals and hardend shafts. It can take a railing for sure. I would suggest a TH-400 if you are serious....only if you are. This also brings to the table, converters. Make sure that you factor in the money for a stall. They are not tthe cheapest things in the world, but will make a huge difference in power...and sad to say, your more frequent business to the gas station. But, it seems as though you are concerned with gas mileage, so maybe none of this is for you.
Just a thought. You can really only have one or the other. Good gas mileage or great performance! Sure with endless money, you could probably work in a way with a 6 speed transmission to have awesome mileage, but you might want to ask yourself if this is something you are wanting to do?
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Yeah I remember in getting responses to get a shift kit, and a stall converter. The thing is that I just can't drive a M6, I just can't stick it. Well gas efficiency isn't really a problem, since I work, and I get some gas money to drive my nephew to school, and back. Not much but still some. (Yeah its my last few months in high school, but I'm already enrolling into a art center for courses on advancing in automotive design, and I might try to get into UTI for auto shop, but they don't have a chevy program...so I having second thoughts.) Plus the reason why I'm going to run 91 octane is because I know ill have enough money from my paychecks to put on gas.
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Originally Posted by orangeapeel
The 4l60e is not the worlds strongest tranny by any means! I run a 4l60 non-electric manual valve body and it is a hard hitter. Full internals and hardend shafts. It can take a railing for sure. I would suggest a TH-400 if you are serious....only if you are. This also brings to the table, converters. Make sure that you factor in the money for a stall. They are not tthe cheapest things in the world, but will make a huge difference in power...and sad to say, your more frequent business to the gas station. But, it seems as though you are concerned with gas mileage, so maybe none of this is for you.
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now, on a P1SC, assuming Bob's 140 rwhp number is correct, and i assume it is because bob knows his stuff, that means you'll be throwing down ~430 rwhp from just the supercharger! port your throttle body, get lid, a catback and a cold air kit such as the FTRA and you'll surely be putting down over 450 rwhp. now, the STOCK 4L60E's biggest enemy is high rpm power. a stock 4L60E, IMO, will be better at holding 450rwhp at 4,000 rpm's than it will be able to hold 400 rwhp ~ 6800 rpm's. the reason why the 4L60E doesn't like high rpm's is because it has a design flaw where the spring for the pump can't provide tranny fluid over 5500 rpm's. that means over 5500 rpm's, your tranny becomes starved for lubrication and cooling and things fail and fly apart. now, with the STOCK shift points of 6,000 rpm's for 1-2 and 2-3 and 5,900 rpm's for 3-4, the 4L60E can get away with that. however, upping your shift points to 6,800+ rpm's is a death sentence. you'll smoke your clutches, break your sun shell, crack your input drum, break the pump, chip the planets and all kinds of nasty things.
now, if you get your car supercharged, even with 450 rwhp, your 4L60E will be better off than a cam only car running 400 rwhp. reason being is, when you supercharge your car, you usually keep the stock shift points. KEEP YOUR SHIFT POINTS STOCK and your tranny may last a little bit. however, it's still a slow death sentence. if you truly intend to supercharge your car, you WILL need a built 4L60E and a new rear end (a 12-bolt will be fine for your application). the good news is, you can get the built tranny WITH a 3500 stall from the sponsors for only around $2,000 with a pretty good warranty. 450rwhp is definitly pushing it on a stock tranny, but on a 4L60E built by the pro's, it's not that much.
i would strongly recommend going to a sponsor in this case and not your local shop to get your 4L60E toughened up. reason is, building a 4L60E isn't easy. just replacing stock parts for better ones isn't enough. a better sun shell, GM 5 pinion planets, better clutches and all the best materials isn't cutting it. you need someone who has a lot of experience with these transmissions because feed holes need to be enlarged to promote better lubrication and cooling. you need to modify the trans a little bit, not just replace parts. from what i've heard so far, FLT and performabuilt are two of the best guys in the industry for making tough 4L60E's, so if i were you, i'd go with one of them and you should be just dandy.
sorry for the long post.
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FLT and Performabuilt toughen up 4L60E, like how much would it cost for it to with stand over 500 RWHP? And also get the 12 bolt rear end? Because I'm planning on builting my car to run pretty good on the track, but tear it up on the street. I'm pretty much going to go all performance, and like no cosmestics on my SS. For the exception of some nice rims, and tires.
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I wish I could have a LS1 Shop right here my house, or somewhere kinda close. But oh well, beggars can't be choosers...I'm really starting to look forward to going to EPP very soon. From all the good news I hear, I think I'll be happy in the long run. But right now I'm very hyped about getting my SS soon. So would the D-1SC might just be my pick over the P-1SC.
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Originally Posted by Marky Mark
Yeah I'm interested in the D-1SC for my soon to be LS1 SS. I would like to get it tuned if I bring my vehicle down there. But how is it not legal in California? Just curious on why it isn't? What exactly is the difference between just the D-1SC and the P-1SC-1 with 4.5 Intercooler, and 8 Rib Drive System?What would be the RWHP, and RWTQ on a un-modified LS1 engine? Also long would it take for in the installation if I drive my vehicle?
#33
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Originally Posted by Marky Mark
FLT and Performabuilt toughen up 4L60E, like how much would it cost for it to with stand over 500 RWHP?
Originally Posted by Marky Mark
And also get the 12 bolt rear end? Because I'm planning on builting my car to run pretty good on the track, but tear it up on the street. I'm pretty much going to go all performance, and like no cosmestics on my SS. For the exception of some nice rims, and tires.
Originally Posted by Marky Mark
I wish I could have a LS1 Shop right here my house, or somewhere kinda close. But oh well, beggars can't be choosers...I'm really starting to look forward to going to EPP very soon. From all the good news I hear, I think I'll be happy in the long run. But right now I'm very hyped about getting my SS soon. So would the D-1SC might just be my pick over the P-1SC.
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Well should I just go with the 9" rear end? Since I'm not planning on stopping at the 500RWHP mark. Because after the S/C I'm planning on getting the transmission toughened up, stall convert, the rear end, headers, cam, heads, and exhaust. I'm planning on making my SS in a pretty damn fast strip/street car.
And Chocotaco...for that 9 Second beast. What parts would exactly be needed for all the power? Especially on an A4 LS1?
And Chocotaco...for that 9 Second beast. What parts would exactly be needed for all the power? Especially on an A4 LS1?
#35
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Originally Posted by Marky Mark
Well should I just go with the 9" rear end? Since I'm not planning on stopping at the 500RWHP mark. Because after the S/C I'm planning on getting the transmission toughened up, stall convert, the rear end, headers, cam, heads, and exhaust. I'm planning on making my SS in a pretty damn fast strip/street car.
And Chocotaco...for that 9 Second beast. What parts would exactly be needed for all the power? Especially on an A4 LS1?
And Chocotaco...for that 9 Second beast. What parts would exactly be needed for all the power? Especially on an A4 LS1?
if you are NOT planning on stopping at 500rwhp, i urge you to find a car with traction control. that way your car will have 4-channel ABS. 9" rear ends get along well with 4 channel ABS. if you choose a car without traction control (ASR in camaros, TCS in firebirds), you will lose your anti-lock brake system. this doesn't bother some people, but it's something i personally would like to keep. then again, if you have an 800rwhp car, you probably won't be driving in the snow and rain
![Icon Lol](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_lol.gif)
the 9" rear end is a fine rear end. it's probably the quietest aftermarket rear end you can buy and is arguably the strongest. it should easily be able to hold whatever hosepower you throw at it unless you start hitting 4-digit levels
![Icon Lol](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_lol.gif)
as for the transmission, if you plan on this being a race car and not a friendly daily driver, don't even bother with a 4L60E. a 4L60E can handle 500rwhp all day if built properly, but with the power level you'll get out of heads, a cam and a blower, we're talking the 700+rwhp level over here. i mean you can easily hit 500 rwhp on just the blower alone, so imagine what a good blower cam and a good set of heads and full bolt-ons will net you
![EEK !!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_eek2.gif)
this is what i would do if i were in your situation:
1.) ATI Procharger P-1SC from bob at EPP
2.) moser 9" rear end with a TrueTrac differential, also from bob at EPP, w/3.55 final drive gear ratio. why 3.55? (i think the moser 9" takes 3.55's) why not steeper? because with a blown setup, your boost builds at ~3,000 rpms and you don't want your gears to rpm too quickly or you miss out on all that boost.
3.) some type of 220/224 cam. with a blower, you want a cam with a longer exhaust duration than intake duration, and while a 220/224 is a rather "small" cam, you can tune them for smog **** california. unfortunately, in california, you can't go much bigger
![Nono](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/nono.gif)
4.) TFS heads. they outflowed AFR 205's on a test i just saw. looked pretty good to me. of course, you can't go wrong with tried-and-true AFR 205's, also.
5.) kooks 1 7/8" headers. you're going for top of the line here, may as well get the best headers on the market.
6.) 3200-3600 stall. again, you don't wanna go too big or you miss out on all that boost. make sure you go with a very strong stall with tough lockup clutches, or you'll have problems with all that power. a normal stall you see the average joe running around with on this site isn't going to cut it.
7.) 3" true duals w/dynomax bullet mufflers or flowmaster single chambers and an X-pipe. the dynomax bullet mufflers will probably give you the freest flowing and best performing exhaust out there, while the single chambers will give you the best sounding exhaust out there. take your pick. personally i like the H-pipe sound a lot better, but X-pipes seem to perform better on LS1 cars.
8.) new shocks, torque arm, 3-point subfram connectors, driveshaft loop and A-arms. your brands of choice is up to you. i know UMI performance (board sponsor) makes some of the best suspension gear out there so i'd go to them for most of the stuff.
9.) SLP lid and Fast Toy's Ram Air kit.
10.) NGK TR-6 sparkplugs w/ MSD wires.
that's what i'd do if i were in your position. again, this would be just my plan. it's your car, mod it however you want it and have a lot of fun. just note that my plan of action would probably cost in excess of $20,000. take it one day at a time, there's no rush. if you're anything like me, you'll keep your car forever
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#36
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Originally Posted by ChocoTaco369
well, this is all just my estimation because i know as much about supercharging a car as OJ simpson knows about living a life without murdering someone, but i'll try my best.
if you are NOT planning on stopping at 500rwhp, i urge you to find a car with traction control. that way your car will have 4-channel ABS. 9" rear ends get along well with 4 channel ABS. if you choose a car without traction control (ASR in camaros, TCS in firebirds), you will lose your anti-lock brake system. this doesn't bother some people, but it's something i personally would like to keep. then again, if you have an 800rwhp car, you probably won't be driving in the snow and rain![Icon Lol](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_lol.gif)
the 9" rear end is a fine rear end. it's probably the quietest aftermarket rear end you can buy and is arguably the strongest. it should easily be able to hold whatever hosepower you throw at it unless you start hitting 4-digit levels![Icon Lol](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_lol.gif)
as for the transmission, if you plan on this being a race car and not a friendly daily driver, don't even bother with a 4L60E. a 4L60E can handle 500rwhp all day if built properly, but with the power level you'll get out of heads, a cam and a blower, we're talking the 700+rwhp level over here. i mean you can easily hit 500 rwhp on just the blower alone, so imagine what a good blower cam and a good set of heads and full bolt-ons will net you
if you want your car to be streetable, i'd look at a 4L80E. for that, i'd recommend FLT. GMHTP did an article on FLT and they have built 4L80E's that hold over 1,000 rwhp. a 4L80E is a WHOLE DIFFERENT BEAST than a 4L60E. it's much stronger and built correctly, it can hold 1500+ horsepower. for your high horsepower application, get a built 4L80E from FLT and never worry about your transmission again. it's a very heavy transmission (~200 lbs), but you'll keep your overdrive and streetability, have good gear ratios for the track and have a nearly bulletproof driveline if paired with a 9" rear end and a chromoly driveshaft (do NOT forget a good driveshaft!!!)
this is what i would do if i were in your situation:
1.) ATI Procharger P-1SC from bob at EPP
2.) moser 9" rear end with a TrueTrac differential, also from bob at EPP, w/3.55 final drive gear ratio. why 3.55? (i think the moser 9" takes 3.55's) why not steeper? because with a blown setup, your boost builds at ~3,000 rpms and you don't want your gears to rpm too quickly or you miss out on all that boost.
3.) some type of 220/224 cam. with a blower, you want a cam with a longer exhaust duration than intake duration, and while a 220/224 is a rather "small" cam, you can tune them for smog **** california. unfortunately, in california, you can't go much bigger![Nono](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/nono.gif)
4.) TFS heads. they outflowed AFR 205's on a test i just saw. looked pretty good to me. of course, you can't go wrong with tried-and-true AFR 205's, also.
5.) kooks 1 7/8" headers. you're going for top of the line here, may as well get the best headers on the market.
6.) 3200-3600 stall. again, you don't wanna go too big or you miss out on all that boost. make sure you go with a very strong stall with tough lockup clutches, or you'll have problems with all that power. a normal stall you see the average joe running around with on this site isn't going to cut it.
7.) 3" true duals w/dynomax bullet mufflers or flowmaster single chambers and an X-pipe. the dynomax bullet mufflers will probably give you the freest flowing and best performing exhaust out there, while the single chambers will give you the best sounding exhaust out there. take your pick. personally i like the H-pipe sound a lot better, but X-pipes seem to perform better on LS1 cars.
8.) new shocks, torque arm, 3-point subfram connectors, driveshaft loop and A-arms. your brands of choice is up to you. i know UMI performance (board sponsor) makes some of the best suspension gear out there so i'd go to them for most of the stuff.
9.) SLP lid and Fast Toy's Ram Air kit.
10.) NGK TR-6 sparkplugs w/ MSD wires.
that's what i'd do if i were in your position. again, this would be just my plan. it's your car, mod it however you want it and have a lot of fun. just note that my plan of action would probably cost in excess of $20,000. take it one day at a time, there's no rush. if you're anything like me, you'll keep your car forever
best of luck to you.
if you are NOT planning on stopping at 500rwhp, i urge you to find a car with traction control. that way your car will have 4-channel ABS. 9" rear ends get along well with 4 channel ABS. if you choose a car without traction control (ASR in camaros, TCS in firebirds), you will lose your anti-lock brake system. this doesn't bother some people, but it's something i personally would like to keep. then again, if you have an 800rwhp car, you probably won't be driving in the snow and rain
![Icon Lol](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_lol.gif)
the 9" rear end is a fine rear end. it's probably the quietest aftermarket rear end you can buy and is arguably the strongest. it should easily be able to hold whatever hosepower you throw at it unless you start hitting 4-digit levels
![Icon Lol](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_lol.gif)
as for the transmission, if you plan on this being a race car and not a friendly daily driver, don't even bother with a 4L60E. a 4L60E can handle 500rwhp all day if built properly, but with the power level you'll get out of heads, a cam and a blower, we're talking the 700+rwhp level over here. i mean you can easily hit 500 rwhp on just the blower alone, so imagine what a good blower cam and a good set of heads and full bolt-ons will net you
![EEK !!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_eek2.gif)
this is what i would do if i were in your situation:
1.) ATI Procharger P-1SC from bob at EPP
2.) moser 9" rear end with a TrueTrac differential, also from bob at EPP, w/3.55 final drive gear ratio. why 3.55? (i think the moser 9" takes 3.55's) why not steeper? because with a blown setup, your boost builds at ~3,000 rpms and you don't want your gears to rpm too quickly or you miss out on all that boost.
3.) some type of 220/224 cam. with a blower, you want a cam with a longer exhaust duration than intake duration, and while a 220/224 is a rather "small" cam, you can tune them for smog **** california. unfortunately, in california, you can't go much bigger
![Nono](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/nono.gif)
4.) TFS heads. they outflowed AFR 205's on a test i just saw. looked pretty good to me. of course, you can't go wrong with tried-and-true AFR 205's, also.
5.) kooks 1 7/8" headers. you're going for top of the line here, may as well get the best headers on the market.
6.) 3200-3600 stall. again, you don't wanna go too big or you miss out on all that boost. make sure you go with a very strong stall with tough lockup clutches, or you'll have problems with all that power. a normal stall you see the average joe running around with on this site isn't going to cut it.
7.) 3" true duals w/dynomax bullet mufflers or flowmaster single chambers and an X-pipe. the dynomax bullet mufflers will probably give you the freest flowing and best performing exhaust out there, while the single chambers will give you the best sounding exhaust out there. take your pick. personally i like the H-pipe sound a lot better, but X-pipes seem to perform better on LS1 cars.
8.) new shocks, torque arm, 3-point subfram connectors, driveshaft loop and A-arms. your brands of choice is up to you. i know UMI performance (board sponsor) makes some of the best suspension gear out there so i'd go to them for most of the stuff.
9.) SLP lid and Fast Toy's Ram Air kit.
10.) NGK TR-6 sparkplugs w/ MSD wires.
that's what i'd do if i were in your position. again, this would be just my plan. it's your car, mod it however you want it and have a lot of fun. just note that my plan of action would probably cost in excess of $20,000. take it one day at a time, there's no rush. if you're anything like me, you'll keep your car forever
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Also yeah I'm that type of person who keeps things forever. Especially since things are getting rather expensive now a days. But I'll be taking it day by day on those performance parts since I'm going to be paying for them out of my paychecks. Also how consistent and efficient is the 4L80E over the 4L60E?
Heh, from all this good reviews, and references. I'll be going to you for alot of my LS1 performance parts.
Originally Posted by Exotic Performance Plus
All good choices, thanks for sending him my way. Bob
Last edited by Marky Mark; 01-19-2007 at 04:24 PM.
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Originally Posted by Marky Mark
Also how consistent and efficient is the 4L80E over the 4L60E?
it's not that it's more efficient, it's that it's twice as strong and easier to build.
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Ohh alright, its just build stronger to with stand the 700RWHP gain? Correct? Should I start out with the S/C or the heads and cam? Something to beat to hefty amount of cars on the street. Like what's the HP gain of heads and cam? Any recommendations on any?
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Originally Posted by Marky Mark
Ohh alright, its just build stronger to with stand the 700RWHP gain? Correct? Should I start out with the S/C or the heads and cam? Something to beat to hefty amount of cars on the street. Like what's the HP gain of heads and cam? Any recommendations on any?
1.) it's the biggest expense, it'll be your biggest power adder and it's nice to get that out of the way
2.) when you do heads and a cam, you should forge your internals so you'll be able to up the boost
the only problem i can see with doing the supercharger first is when you do do the heads and cam, now you have the blower in the way of things. if you decide to do the heads and cam first, make sure you forge your internals at the same time so you can run a good amount of boost from the blower.
as for the 4L80E vs. the 4L60E, 700 rwhp is pushing the limits of even the strongest built 4L60E. it's just warming up for a 4L80E. a STOCK 4L80E can hold 500 rwhp. the 4L80E is in every way superior to the 4L60E and the 4L60E, no matter what you do will NEVER have the potential of a 4L80E. reason being is the 4L60E is a medium-duty transmission made for cars and light trucks while the 4L80E was designed for heavy-duty applications, such as silverado 2500's and application where towing thousands of pounds is necessary. the 4L80E was designed to pull weight and have lots of power run through it. build it up and it'll take 1000 rwhp all day long. the 4L80E and 4L60E are two totally different beasts, and the 4L80E squashes the 60 in every category.