BAD WS6

iTrader: (14)

It all started when I bought some straight through 3" tubing to replace my accordion looking intake tubing. I unpluged the air box sensor, and the sensor to the MAF. I couldn't get it to bend and fit right so I decide to use some carb cleaner and clean out the TB then put it all back together. I start the car and it stumbles and almost dies so I shut it off and remembered I forgot to plug in the sensors. I plug them back in and start the car. I turn the accessory lights on to make sure my bulb is still good and the car makes a whining noise. I turn them off and back on and it does it again. I shut the car off and re-start it and try it again and it's gone. I flip up the headlights and the car dies. I checked the battery and it's charged and all the sensors and everything is plugged back in how it should be. I check all the fuses with a test light and they all check out ok. I take the car for a test drive using my fog lights as headlights. I get going in third about 35mph and turn the headlights on and the car begins to choke and stutter and almost dies. I hurry and turn the headlights off and it picks back up and is fine. I pull over and sit and idle and flip them up again and it dies. I had my dad watch the lights when I get it back home and he says only one of the headlights come on when the car is not running. I turn the brights on and they come on but the dash light for the brights and the right turn signal stay on kinda dim and my fog light switch light, the little yellow one is kinda dim. My signals work fine and the signal lights are ok but those two lights will stay on and I can't use my headlights. When I alarm the car to lock it with the remote, the horn barely sounds like it's sick or something but it will still lock. I can't think of anything I did to cause this to happen. There must be an electrical problem or mechanical problem somewhere. Please let me know if you have heard of anything like this happening before or any ideas or solutions to what might be causing this or what to check or how to fix this.

VIP1

Try posting in the Stereo & Electronics section:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/wiring-stereo-electronics-19/

firebird5134

Ive never really heard of headlights causing an engine to die. It definitely sounds like an electrical issue. I would first have your battery checked. If your battery is fine I would then have the alternator looked at. I know from personal experience that when our batteries start to go bad the car goes crazy.

BAD WS6

iTrader: (14)

I still have the stock stereo and speakers, I have never messed with any of that.

I forgot to mention that before I took it for a drive I tried starting it and it wouldn't start and it would just tick. Tried a few times and nothing, still wouldn't start. I let it sit for a couple minutes then tried again and it finally started.

Thanks, I will get my battery and alternator tested today after work.

WS SIKZ

iTrader: (3)

check you battaqry cables. wiggle them hard left and right make sure they are tight as hell and check the plug on the alternator they break and **** too

Rick99TAWS6

iTrader: (4)

I had the turn signal light on the dash be on and dim when the turn signals were not on, turned out to be water in the turn signal lamp housing - dried it up, cleaned up socket, drilled small hole in back of housing to allow water to drain and used silicone to seal up front and top of housing........ no problem since

Have not heard before of a problem with the headlights killing the car

BAD WS6

iTrader: (14)

Thanks for all int info and advice. Much appreciated.

BAD WS6

iTrader: (14)

http://utahmusclecars.com/index.php?showtopic=5783&hl=

Omec

iTrader: (2)

what about a short to ground? did you look around at the wires that bend when the head lights pop open? try unpluging lights and see if it still stalls.

BAD WS6

iTrader: (14)

Ended up being a loose ground wire for the passenger headlights. It was not even that loose but just enough to cause the car to be wacky.