View Poll Results: Trick Flow Heads, 90/90, MS4 + 125 wet shot OR Procharger around 8lbs of boost
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heads & cam + 125 shot OR procharger for 02 SS???
#82
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Well, judging from the amount of money you are spending, you are looking for performance. If you want streetability and good gas mileage then leave it stock.
I wouldn't feel comfortable putting boost on a stock compression/internals LS1. You can easily get the power of a blower in those conditions with with just h/c. If you did go with the blower then you would have to change the internals and lower the compression to take full advantage of it (not to mention eventially change the cam and heads!). If you are doing that you might as well be going with the h/c because you can increase your cubes and compression with different internals and make even more power while taking advantage of high flowing heads.
The LS1 was designed to be a high compression and good flowing engine. Might as well build on what it was designed for. No way you are getting more dependable and more usable power than going on a built N/A setup even w/o the nitrous. And peak hp numbers don't mean much. The last supercharged LS7 Z06 I saw got 180 more peak hp after lowered compression and the blower but the guy took it to the track and ran the exact same quarter mile time as he did before the install.
Again if you are worried about driveability and gas mileage, I would recommend leaving it stock or get a second car before you drop that amount of money down.
And I run a 419 rwhp F-body with stock heads and a custom ground cam that has 150k miles on the clock with only one thing breaking so far and it was a bolt-on. (stupid flowtech LTs...) I wouldn't expect to be hitting 200k+ on FI and stock internals.
Just my opinion, but I'm pretty bias'd against FI on late gen GM small blocks, so don't take me too seriously...
I wouldn't feel comfortable putting boost on a stock compression/internals LS1. You can easily get the power of a blower in those conditions with with just h/c. If you did go with the blower then you would have to change the internals and lower the compression to take full advantage of it (not to mention eventially change the cam and heads!). If you are doing that you might as well be going with the h/c because you can increase your cubes and compression with different internals and make even more power while taking advantage of high flowing heads.
The LS1 was designed to be a high compression and good flowing engine. Might as well build on what it was designed for. No way you are getting more dependable and more usable power than going on a built N/A setup even w/o the nitrous. And peak hp numbers don't mean much. The last supercharged LS7 Z06 I saw got 180 more peak hp after lowered compression and the blower but the guy took it to the track and ran the exact same quarter mile time as he did before the install.
Again if you are worried about driveability and gas mileage, I would recommend leaving it stock or get a second car before you drop that amount of money down.
And I run a 419 rwhp F-body with stock heads and a custom ground cam that has 150k miles on the clock with only one thing breaking so far and it was a bolt-on. (stupid flowtech LTs...) I wouldn't expect to be hitting 200k+ on FI and stock internals.
Just my opinion, but I'm pretty bias'd against FI on late gen GM small blocks, so don't take me too seriously...
#83
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Originally Posted by CaMaRo67RS355
I've decided........................................... .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. ............................................. HEADS/CAM/NITROUS thanks guys
#86
I have a heads, cam, nitrous setup on my car. My buddy has a heads cam and Disc running 8 lbs. of boost. We are both very similar with gearing and stall. Needless to say his dyno showed 510 to the wheels. Mine showed 410 N/A and 580 on the juice. The race is only close for about 100 feet. I can pull on him bad all the way through. He has over double the amount of money in his car and I get better gas mileage than he does.
#87
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chuckles.. yea but once your bottle goes bye bye.. im sure he walks on you like you were tied to a pole
How reliable are the new nitrous systems? I just remember about 10 years ago when I saw 2 cars up in xenia, oh blow their motors on the same day running nitrous.. dont know if it was wet or dry shots. anways that pretty much has always steered me clear of the stuff.
Though i see soo many on here playing with it.. makes me think they have made great leaps and bounds with the reliability of their solenoids etc.
How reliable are the new nitrous systems? I just remember about 10 years ago when I saw 2 cars up in xenia, oh blow their motors on the same day running nitrous.. dont know if it was wet or dry shots. anways that pretty much has always steered me clear of the stuff.
Though i see soo many on here playing with it.. makes me think they have made great leaps and bounds with the reliability of their solenoids etc.
#88
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im just curious as to what kind of tune a H/C with 8#'s, has to only make 510 hp. my H/C made 383 with no tune at all, 400 easy after the tune, then to make 110 more on 8#'s. something is not right
#89
Can't speak for the tune but everything was bought and tuned by a very reputable company. They are not high dollar heads. As far as when my bottle runs out does not matter, I always have 30 + lbs of nitrous with me. I think he was told the stock bottom end won't take much more than 8 to 10 lbs.
#91
..... Heads and cam is the way to go but leave the nitrous in the store.
Slp sells a head and cam kit that makes 525 flywheel hp (well actually its just afr's and a comp cam) but that is just cam and heads... add some good headers, ls6 intake, and a cold air kit and you at 550 hp. What is wrong with 500 rwhp n/a? You motor will last a lot longer then blown or on juice.
Slp sells a head and cam kit that makes 525 flywheel hp (well actually its just afr's and a comp cam) but that is just cam and heads... add some good headers, ls6 intake, and a cold air kit and you at 550 hp. What is wrong with 500 rwhp n/a? You motor will last a lot longer then blown or on juice.
#95
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Originally Posted by wannasupra
what does it generally cost to get 450-500 rwhp without giggle gas or boost in an ls1?
#96
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7-8000 no. you can do it for way less. 5g's, intake, heads, cam, headers, clutch, flywheel, fans, injectors, and supporting mods. you can easily do it for under 5,500 if you do it yourself. dont if you have any doubts though.
#97
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Originally Posted by GIVE EM' THE BIRD
7-8000 no. you can do it for way less. 5g's, intake, heads, cam, headers, clutch, flywheel, fans, injectors, and supporting mods. you can easily do it for under 5,500 if you do it yourself. dont if you have any doubts though.
Cam $350
Springs retainer's pushrods $600
Headers/exhaust $1,500-$2,000
Injectors $300
Intake/TB $1300
Your'e already like at 6.5G's and you still need more. That's not even including tuning, clutch, gaskets, ARP bolts, etc.
Unless you're buying cheap heads/exhaust you're looking at closer to 7k, to get good stuff and do it yourself.
Pay somebody and it's gonna be another 1g for labor. It's really expensive when you think about it.
#98
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(D'oh! Danno beat me to it...)
OK, if you do all the labor yourself it will be less, but for 450+rwhp you'll need:
FAST 90/90-$1300 (ported add $2-300)
Good Heads (ETP, Dart, AFR)- $2000
Full exhaust- $500 minimum (Pacesetters and cut-out), more like $1200 with upgraded headers/Y/cat-back
Cam Package- $400
Injectors-$350
Dyno tune-$300+
Miscellaneous hardware, gaskets, tools etc.- $300
Stuff you'd be stupid to not upgrade like oil pump and timing chain- $200
That's about $5K in parts and we haven't even gotten to drivetrain stuff. So install is going to be at least $1000 bucks and something will always happen to add more. 500rwhp on a heads/cam is no joke and expensive (read Patrick G's sticky). I've already gone the heads/cam route and now have a stroker, so it isn't as cut and dry as everyone would like it to be...
OK, if you do all the labor yourself it will be less, but for 450+rwhp you'll need:
FAST 90/90-$1300 (ported add $2-300)
Good Heads (ETP, Dart, AFR)- $2000
Full exhaust- $500 minimum (Pacesetters and cut-out), more like $1200 with upgraded headers/Y/cat-back
Cam Package- $400
Injectors-$350
Dyno tune-$300+
Miscellaneous hardware, gaskets, tools etc.- $300
Stuff you'd be stupid to not upgrade like oil pump and timing chain- $200
That's about $5K in parts and we haven't even gotten to drivetrain stuff. So install is going to be at least $1000 bucks and something will always happen to add more. 500rwhp on a heads/cam is no joke and expensive (read Patrick G's sticky). I've already gone the heads/cam route and now have a stroker, so it isn't as cut and dry as everyone would like it to be...
#99
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Originally Posted by mustangxocutioner
..... Heads and cam is the way to go but leave the nitrous in the store.
Slp sells a head and cam kit that makes 525 flywheel hp (well actually its just afr's and a comp cam) but that is just cam and heads... add some good headers, ls6 intake, and a cold air kit and you at 550 hp. What is wrong with 500 rwhp n/a? You motor will last a lot longer then blown or on juice.
Slp sells a head and cam kit that makes 525 flywheel hp (well actually its just afr's and a comp cam) but that is just cam and heads... add some good headers, ls6 intake, and a cold air kit and you at 550 hp. What is wrong with 500 rwhp n/a? You motor will last a lot longer then blown or on juice.
No way are you making 500 rwhp with the SLP heads/cam kit, headers, ls6, and cai. For 500 rwhp NA on a 346 your going to need a big cam, AFR/ETP/TFS heads, ported fast 90/90 combo, 1 7/8th headers, 25% underdrive pulley, probably bigger injectors/fuel pump, and a really good tune. That doesnt even include the tranny, clutch, rear end, suspension, tires, etc you need to make use of the power.
#100
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i'm going procharger ???, D1SC and 8-9psi should get you pretty close to 500rwhp or more if im not mistaken, i see it quite often on the FI section. there is one guy on stock internals making 630rwhp, but he's not playing smart