K & N Air filter VS. Paper Air Filter ?!
11-18-2007, 04:51 PM
#41
I had the same problem as well.....after making sure I didnt over oil as well.......F'n K+N killed the maf in my GTP, I went back to paper on my WS6 and camaro before any damage could be done there. I will strictly use paper filters from now on..... well maybe not for the lawnmower
11-18-2007, 05:02 PM
#42
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I used a K&N for 4 years (about 150k miles) and never had any problems... until I overlooked a tiny spot that I over oiled and fried my MAF sensor.
I switched back to paper now. I hear it filters better anyways, and I live on a dirt road.
I don't think the 0-1 hp gain is worth having to wash out that thing, let it dry, then carefully reoil it, when you can just slap in a brand new paper filter for $12 or whatever they cost.
Between me and my buddies, we've got about 8 of those K&Ns laying around if someone really wants them.
I switched back to paper now. I hear it filters better anyways, and I live on a dirt road.
I don't think the 0-1 hp gain is worth having to wash out that thing, let it dry, then carefully reoil it, when you can just slap in a brand new paper filter for $12 or whatever they cost.
Between me and my buddies, we've got about 8 of those K&Ns laying around if someone really wants them.
11-18-2007, 05:17 PM
#43
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D@m, what are you guys doing wrong with your K&N filters? I've been using them on all my cars/trucks for 15 years and never had a problem, a MAF go bad or thrown any kind of SES code. Basically put, the K&N will last longer but needs cleaning and re-oiling and might save you a little in the end. I've never lost an engine so the filtering capacity isn't an issue either. The oiled cotton gauze will help straighten airflow so it might not increase power but it will flow more air than a paper filter which means you don't need as much throttle to maintain the same speed. So you might pick up some gas mileage with it over a paper filter. In the end, it's probably a wash and the cost of both type filters come out even after 50K miles. Don't expect to make more power one way or the other and you'll be fine with your decision.
11-18-2007, 05:36 PM
#44
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I just don't understand why anyone would want to go to the trouble of cleaning a damn air filter, and taking the chance of over oiling, when they can just swap in a new paper filter every 10-15k miles. K&N offers no real world gains, so why deal with the mess?
11-18-2007, 06:59 PM
#45
OR WHATEVER THE K&N COMMERCIALS SAY, NOT WHAT I SAY 
11-18-2007, 09:11 PM
#47
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Read the filter testing here http://duramax-diesel.com/spicer/index.htm This test result should be about the same or close across all filter part #s, as the biggest variable is the material they are made from. The AC Delco, Wix, and AMSoil seem to be the best.
11-19-2007, 07:33 AM
#48
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Here's another filter test to chew on. It's a good contrast to the diesel test as this one was performed as a "real world" test.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm
11-19-2007, 08:22 AM
#49
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I been using mine in all my vehicles and never have problems. you have to oil the SH*T out of them to screw something up. Also, they do make MAF cleaner so just make it a habit to clean your maf when you service the filter, its really no hard at all. I did buy a car though that had an over oiled K&N in it and it did screw the performance up bad. cleaned the MAF, runs great again. If your too lazy to clean the MAF, dont buy a K&N
11-19-2007, 08:58 AM
#50
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by time you buy a k&n that doesnt fit well at all and is covered in oil that could cause damage to your maf, and buy there expensive recharge oiling kits to clean it often ( i had ftra/fra mod done so mine got dirty often. youll spend way more then you ever will with paper filters.
what made me take mine out finally was this:
hold a new paper filter up to a light source, yes there are very very tiny holes in it, but then hold a brand new oil soaked filer up to the same light. it has tons of considerably bigger holes, thats why it uses oil to stop the trash. well eventually it gets "mud" covered from the dirt and oil, some spots get dry too. the spots that get dry will have those big holes as compared to the paper filter. now.....think of where all those lovely pieces of trash are going
to the maf the tb the intake your heads and if those dont stop then finally your engine and eventually in your oil.
me , ill pass not worth it even if it gave me 4 rwhp. and it doesnt so.....
what made me take mine out finally was this:
hold a new paper filter up to a light source, yes there are very very tiny holes in it, but then hold a brand new oil soaked filer up to the same light. it has tons of considerably bigger holes, thats why it uses oil to stop the trash. well eventually it gets "mud" covered from the dirt and oil, some spots get dry too. the spots that get dry will have those big holes as compared to the paper filter. now.....think of where all those lovely pieces of trash are going
to the maf the tb the intake your heads and if those dont stop then finally your engine and eventually in your oil.
me , ill pass not worth it even if it gave me 4 rwhp. and it doesnt so.....
11-19-2007, 08:20 PM
#51
I been using mine in all my vehicles and never have problems. you have to oil the SH*T out of them to screw something up. Also, they do make MAF cleaner so just make it a habit to clean your maf when you service the filter, its really no hard at all. I did buy a car though that had an over oiled K&N in it and it did screw the performance up bad. cleaned the MAF, runs great again. If your too lazy to clean the MAF, dont buy a K&N
11-19-2007, 08:54 PM
#53
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On a stock to mild engine you will see little gains. The more the air flow demands are increased with larger displacement engines ect. the more gain you will see from a free flowing filter/breather set up.
The same goes for other bolt on mods.... true duals for example.
The same goes for other bolt on mods.... true duals for example.
Last edited by Jeremiah; 11-19-2007 at 09:56 PM.
11-19-2007, 09:42 PM
#54
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thats what i thought too, BUT I cleaned the filter, applied a THIN layer of oil, let it dry for 3 hrs, then another even lighter misting....let it dry for another 3 hrs(both times out in the sun at +80 deg f), slapped it in and not more than 4 days later.....ENG light! and heres a thought, if there isnt that much oil on the filter, whats catching the dirt?
11-20-2007, 12:52 PM
#55
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On a stock to mild engine you will see little gains. The more the air flow demands are increased with larger displacement engines ect. the more gain you will see from a free flowing filter/breather set up.
The same goes for other bolt on mods.... true duals for example.
The same goes for other bolt on mods.... true duals for example.
11-20-2007, 12:56 PM
#56
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11-20-2007, 04:49 PM
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Yeah, I think the last one I bought was like barely over $12 with tax and junk...
As for the original poster, I have seen some very good threads on here in the last 6months or so showing that the paper filters are actually slightly better on the dyno. If I remember right it was 1-2whp difference, so not much. The one thing about the paper filter I like is that I can just throw it away. I don't have to waste time washing it, and around here they get very dirty in the winter months...
As for the original poster, I have seen some very good threads on here in the last 6months or so showing that the paper filters are actually slightly better on the dyno. If I remember right it was 1-2whp difference, so not much. The one thing about the paper filter I like is that I can just throw it away. I don't have to waste time washing it, and around here they get very dirty in the winter months...
