Best way to 400RWHP
#23
Nice talked to a buddy of mine said he would do a set of heads for me, just gotta pick a nice set, as for cam it will have to wait a little bit to i can take a trip down to Dezracing (heard it was the best around here) and also heard a man named Don that i belive is a member here is the god of LS1 tunning, not trying to *** kiss
#25
After going through 4+ years to finally get where I am, here's the approach I personally would take if I were to do it again (and I will .. lol!):
I'd lean on the stock tranny and 10-bolt while doing bolt-ons ... until I dyno'd at about 350RWHP/340RWTQ. Then, if they're still holding up OK, I'd first do a rearend swap to a 12-bolt with 3.73's for an auto A4 .... Dana 90 for a manaul M6. Next, would be a built 4L65E with your converter of choice (depending on your personal goals) and a nice, lightweight driveshaft with spicer u-joints.
Now, this would put you at a decision point to stay NA or to go FI. And finally, I'd do a good heads and cam combo and have the motor forged up at the same time. Spec's for your motor would be determined by whatever route you had chosen wehn you get to that decision point.
If I REALLY wanted to get ahead in life, I'd find a way to simply buy an F-Body that was already built and get the most value, by far ... IMO.
I'd lean on the stock tranny and 10-bolt while doing bolt-ons ... until I dyno'd at about 350RWHP/340RWTQ. Then, if they're still holding up OK, I'd first do a rearend swap to a 12-bolt with 3.73's for an auto A4 .... Dana 90 for a manaul M6. Next, would be a built 4L65E with your converter of choice (depending on your personal goals) and a nice, lightweight driveshaft with spicer u-joints.
Now, this would put you at a decision point to stay NA or to go FI. And finally, I'd do a good heads and cam combo and have the motor forged up at the same time. Spec's for your motor would be determined by whatever route you had chosen wehn you get to that decision point.
If I REALLY wanted to get ahead in life, I'd find a way to simply buy an F-Body that was already built and get the most value, by far ... IMO.
#26
I know Nitrous is the cheaper, quicker way; but I would much rather go the cam route for driving experience alone. Hearing that lope and feeling the aggression of the car > pushing a button. Plus I'd rather always have power at my finger tips rather than when I want or need it.
#27
I have a 2002 WS6 M6 making 415 RWHP with these mods....
Volant CAI
Thunder Racing Cam....232/234 598/602 113 lsa
Pacesetter Long tube headers
Pacesetter ORY pipe
SLP Smooth Bellows
Comp Cams Hardened pushrods
Rollmaster double roller timing chain
Crane Cams dual valve spring kit. (rated up to 610 lift)
Borla cat-back exhaust
Volant CAI
Thunder Racing Cam....232/234 598/602 113 lsa
Pacesetter Long tube headers
Pacesetter ORY pipe
SLP Smooth Bellows
Comp Cams Hardened pushrods
Rollmaster double roller timing chain
Crane Cams dual valve spring kit. (rated up to 610 lift)
Borla cat-back exhaust
#28
I'm looking at doing something similiar, but a tad higher. My plans are heads, cam, LT headers with true duals, intake/TB (on the LS6/fast fence), lid & injectors. Exact items are still up for debate. I really want the handling first, so I'm starting with revalved bilsteins & springs. With the cost of this stuff, I'll probably spread it out. What would I be better off starting with? I was thinking exhaust, lid & first as they wouldn't 'need' a retune, and will probably be able to add teh intake with the heads.