Paranoid to go over 5000 rpms
01-03-2008, 01:36 AM
#41
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With those kind of miles i'd be a bit concerned myself aswell. So I can understand your concern. Lets be honest tho,.. with consideration to what everyone else has said already all I can tell you is that if its gonna go,... its gonna go! I'd personally start saving up for a good engine rebuild with that mileage if I where you. ... just my .02!
01-03-2008, 10:31 AM
#42
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if the car's mechanically sound (as much as can be expected for your mileage), go for it. The car's made to run up to 6k. Just listen for pinging and odd noises. If it's smooth you're fine. Just don't get cocky and start spinning it over 6k.
Dont worry about it man, drive the car like it was meant to be driven! 
...Ouch! .. thats funny tho! 
01-04-2008, 08:15 PM
#54
I bought mine with 87K on the odometer...the very first time I drove it, I ripped it at full throttle through the gears after it was warm...and I shifted it when it felt like it should be shifted (RIGHT before the rev limiter...over 6K).
Car has 102K on it now (in 4 months...LOTS of highway driving with the cruise control on at 75 mph)...and whenever I'm not sitting on the highway going to or from work, I pound on the go pedal whenever I have the chance, and I shift it when the bright red light I put in the AC vent says to (I set that at 6K...by the time I react to it, my datalogs show me at 6100). I have NO funny noises from the engine, the oil comes out clean when I change it, and I get at LEAST 25 mpg on every tank...when it's all highway and no fun I get like 30 mpg or more...these are GREAT engines.
The guys saying missing shifts will kill it aren't really explaining that properly at all...if you go 1-2-1 or 1-2-3-2 while shifting at high RPM...THATS when you might bend a pushrod or damage a bearing or something like that...if you just go 1-2 then find neutral instead of 3rd and zing it off the rev limiter quickly (and realize it and lift off the throttle) a few times while you're learning how to drive it...you're not going to hurt anything.
As for the guy who said he's nervous about his LT1 at 100K...I've owned 4 LT1 cars (not f-bodies, b-bodies, and I did T56 conversion in the 2 I drove the most...and one of them I cammed AT 140K and revved it to 6500 all day long after until someone hit me head on in a snowstorm and totalled the car), I bought them ALL at 100K or higher (bought one at 135K) and always stood on the go pedal in them too...
Whoever said "a smallblock chevy will run on 5 PSI of oil pressure"...thats an OLD spec on OLD smallblocks, and it's 5 PSI per 1000 RPM...Gen 3/4's are different...my LT1's always idled at like 15 PSI and got just barely north of 45 PSI at high RPM (hot oil)...my LS1 idles at 40-45 PSI and gets up over 60 with RPM (again, hot oil)...
Oh, and I run German Castrol in the Camaro, and I listen to the change oil light on the dash...last oil change was the first time I had the ***** to run the same oil for that long in any car...11,500 miles...which is most of the time I've owned the car for. Oil analysis says I could have run it longer, oil filter was CLEAN, magnet on the drain plug was CLEAN, and over that many miles...the car burned 1/3 of 1 quart...did I mention these are GREAT engines?
If you're hearing a noise from the axle over bumps...don't crawl under it and look at the housing for cracks...that isn't whats going to happen to it anyways, stuff inside it will break first...the noise over bumps is probably old rubber bushings being worn out/dry rotted so your control arms, or torque arm, or panhard bar, or swaybar, or shocks, or something is probably rattling and needs attention.
Car has 102K on it now (in 4 months...LOTS of highway driving with the cruise control on at 75 mph)...and whenever I'm not sitting on the highway going to or from work, I pound on the go pedal whenever I have the chance, and I shift it when the bright red light I put in the AC vent says to (I set that at 6K...by the time I react to it, my datalogs show me at 6100). I have NO funny noises from the engine, the oil comes out clean when I change it, and I get at LEAST 25 mpg on every tank...when it's all highway and no fun I get like 30 mpg or more...these are GREAT engines.
The guys saying missing shifts will kill it aren't really explaining that properly at all...if you go 1-2-1 or 1-2-3-2 while shifting at high RPM...THATS when you might bend a pushrod or damage a bearing or something like that...if you just go 1-2 then find neutral instead of 3rd and zing it off the rev limiter quickly (and realize it and lift off the throttle) a few times while you're learning how to drive it...you're not going to hurt anything.
As for the guy who said he's nervous about his LT1 at 100K...I've owned 4 LT1 cars (not f-bodies, b-bodies, and I did T56 conversion in the 2 I drove the most...and one of them I cammed AT 140K and revved it to 6500 all day long after until someone hit me head on in a snowstorm and totalled the car), I bought them ALL at 100K or higher (bought one at 135K) and always stood on the go pedal in them too...
Whoever said "a smallblock chevy will run on 5 PSI of oil pressure"...thats an OLD spec on OLD smallblocks, and it's 5 PSI per 1000 RPM...Gen 3/4's are different...my LT1's always idled at like 15 PSI and got just barely north of 45 PSI at high RPM (hot oil)...my LS1 idles at 40-45 PSI and gets up over 60 with RPM (again, hot oil)...
Oh, and I run German Castrol in the Camaro, and I listen to the change oil light on the dash...last oil change was the first time I had the ***** to run the same oil for that long in any car...11,500 miles...which is most of the time I've owned the car for. Oil analysis says I could have run it longer, oil filter was CLEAN, magnet on the drain plug was CLEAN, and over that many miles...the car burned 1/3 of 1 quart...did I mention these are GREAT engines?
If you're hearing a noise from the axle over bumps...don't crawl under it and look at the housing for cracks...that isn't whats going to happen to it anyways, stuff inside it will break first...the noise over bumps is probably old rubber bushings being worn out/dry rotted so your control arms, or torque arm, or panhard bar, or swaybar, or shocks, or something is probably rattling and needs attention.
01-05-2008, 05:23 AM
#55
With winter formula in the gas around here, 4k+rpm isn't possible without a good amount of detonation not to mention cold winter weather = no traction.
If this was spring, I'd hit 6k+rpm every day I drive the car... actually I don't recall a day I didn't do that at least once. Now that I have a cam in, 6500rpm happens a bit more often than I should.
Spun bearings occur on low oil pressure or starvation, who the hell spins a bearing missing a shift? Most usually go @!$#@!@!# when a missed shift occurs because usually we're racing at that point. I've done that a few times on track. Bad combination of being an oven in the car, not wanting to run the AC, sweaty hands and just a stroke of bad luck.
Heck I've even done the 3-2 accidental shift in the early days of driving a stick (thank god I wasn't redlining it). 5-2 = instant pushrod death for stock engines.
If this was spring, I'd hit 6k+rpm every day I drive the car... actually I don't recall a day I didn't do that at least once. Now that I have a cam in, 6500rpm happens a bit more often than I should.
Spun bearings occur on low oil pressure or starvation, who the hell spins a bearing missing a shift? Most usually go @!$#@!@!# when a missed shift occurs because usually we're racing at that point. I've done that a few times on track. Bad combination of being an oven in the car, not wanting to run the AC, sweaty hands and just a stroke of bad luck.
Heck I've even done the 3-2 accidental shift in the early days of driving a stick (thank god I wasn't redlining it). 5-2 = instant pushrod death for stock engines.
01-05-2008, 09:37 PM
#57
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Are there actual push rods that can even handle that? like performance ones, just wondering, wonder what the engines rpm would be going from redline in 3rd to 2nd! DAMN lol.
01-06-2008, 05:48 PM
#60
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My 98 was bought w/118K on it and seemed to be rather abused but still ran strong. Since I have other cars to drive I switched to synthetic and proceeded to beat the **** out of it until one day w/133K on it I started it up and it had a spun bearing. Would do it all over again!