May be trading in my mustang for this Formula...
#1
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
May be trading in my mustang for this Formula...
Can you guys check it out and give me a lowdown on things to look for? Car seemed to drive great and all, im just iffy cause theyre askin 10000 for it and it has 83000 miles.
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...reset_crumbs=y
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...reset_crumbs=y
#2
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If you do a search on here i think there was a thread on what to look for when buying a used vehicle. Just some things: Did you hear any funny noises or rattling when driving or when the car shifted(since its A4), Amount of grease or oil underneath hood, service records, ever wrecked, check the oil cap for buildup, look under it and see if anything looks out of wack/dirty, and all in all if you can see if you can test drive it WITHOUT a dealer guy present so you can get on it. Most of these should tell you anything about the car or the way its been treated. Also this is just religious after my last experience, check interior pieces make sure everything is in tact, check window motors, shock lifters for hatch, rear pieces under hatch etc etc.
#4
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Yeah thats the basic stuff, only issues were the blinkers stayed solid and didnt blink, and the steering wheel was kinda crooked, but car still drove straight.
I was kinda talkin about stuff that may have been wrong on the ls1 in 2000, like how the 1999 and 2000 mustangs had the **** plastic thermostat housing which would crack eventually, the 3-thread sparkplug bolts that sometimes allowed plugs to launch out, etc. TSB's or recalls or something.
I still owe about 8000 on my mustang, so if i can get em to lower the price, then take teh stang off my hands, ill be happy.
Lol i can spend 2000 on nitrous for the stang to make it beat an ls1, or i can shell out 700-1000 to just buy an ls1 and have a better building block.
I was kinda talkin about stuff that may have been wrong on the ls1 in 2000, like how the 1999 and 2000 mustangs had the **** plastic thermostat housing which would crack eventually, the 3-thread sparkplug bolts that sometimes allowed plugs to launch out, etc. TSB's or recalls or something.
I still owe about 8000 on my mustang, so if i can get em to lower the price, then take teh stang off my hands, ill be happy.
Lol i can spend 2000 on nitrous for the stang to make it beat an ls1, or i can shell out 700-1000 to just buy an ls1 and have a better building block.
#5
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How much are they going to give you for your mustang as a trade-in also may be a factor. IMO i would probably wait on the deal because i hate the rear end on that car and its not leather. But thats just me! I would also look a little lower for miles.
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#8
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carmax won't give you near what you expect for trade-in. i've been there and done that..i'll never go back to their dealerships. take what you expect them to give you and cut it at least in half.
#12
11 Second Club
Personally I like the Formula better. They tend to weigh a little less, are much rarer then a Trans Am/WS6 and have a cleaner look. Of course that's just my opinion and I am certainly biased
The price isn't bad. For western New York that would be a good price but in other parts of the country it could be a tad high. Do a autotrader search within a few hundred miles and see how much 80K LS1's are going for. And don't sweat the mileage. There are lots of 120K-150K LS1's that are still running strong. And when the motor finally does go it gives you a great excuse to buy a 4XX stroker
Good luck.
#13
I'm in Western New York too, and the prices around here are crazy compared to some parts of the country. I was looking for one last winter (looking in winter for cheaper prices), and the few dealers that have them all want too much. I'd suggest to keep looking or at least talk them down to 8000 or 8500. I got a nice 6speed z28 last winter from a private seller for 8000 with 95k miles on it and even that was a lot, but it was exactly what I was looking for. If you decide to get it, welcome to the ls1 club, you can't go wrong with any of them!
#15
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The only difference between a Formula and a Trans Am is appearance. The Formula was basically the Firebird body with the motor upgraded to the V8 LS1. The Trans Am added a rear spoiler, body kit and the front end had the fog lights in a different location.
Personally I like the Formula better. They tend to weigh a little less, are much rarer then a Trans Am/WS6 and have a cleaner look. Of course that's just my opinion and I am certainly biased
The price isn't bad. For western New York that would be a good price but in other parts of the country it could be a tad high. Do a autotrader search within a few hundred miles and see how much 80K LS1's are going for. And don't sweat the mileage. There are lots of 120K-150K LS1's that are still running strong. And when the motor finally does go it gives you a great excuse to buy a 4XX stroker
Good luck.
Personally I like the Formula better. They tend to weigh a little less, are much rarer then a Trans Am/WS6 and have a cleaner look. Of course that's just my opinion and I am certainly biased
The price isn't bad. For western New York that would be a good price but in other parts of the country it could be a tad high. Do a autotrader search within a few hundred miles and see how much 80K LS1's are going for. And don't sweat the mileage. There are lots of 120K-150K LS1's that are still running strong. And when the motor finally does go it gives you a great excuse to buy a 4XX stroker
Good luck.
#16
Tech Resident
Wow. BONE STOCK down to the lid. It's rare to find a completely unmolested F-body these days. Even mine came with a lid and catback on it.
Go for it. If it drives nice, it probably is okay. Just make sure to check the color of the transmission fluid and make sure the shifts are firm. The stock 4L60E has a LITTLE kick to it under light throttle - you should be able to feel them.
Check for leaks on bottom, particularly on the front of the oil pan. When the water pump leaks, the front of the oil pan tends to get wet. Check around the tranny pan for leaks, too. Smell your coolant - if it smells skunky, you'll want to change it out ASAP. Also, make sure the headlights don't grind when raised/lowered and check the window motors! The window motors are known to break or operate VERY SLOWLY.
This will be a big change from driving a Mustang
Go for it. If it drives nice, it probably is okay. Just make sure to check the color of the transmission fluid and make sure the shifts are firm. The stock 4L60E has a LITTLE kick to it under light throttle - you should be able to feel them.
Check for leaks on bottom, particularly on the front of the oil pan. When the water pump leaks, the front of the oil pan tends to get wet. Check around the tranny pan for leaks, too. Smell your coolant - if it smells skunky, you'll want to change it out ASAP. Also, make sure the headlights don't grind when raised/lowered and check the window motors! The window motors are known to break or operate VERY SLOWLY.
This will be a big change from driving a Mustang
#17
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
nah this baby is the real deal, couldnt stop the back end from kicking out on a wet road at even 3/4 throttle
And the headlight motors were the first thing i checked when i started fiddling with the accessories, lol. I love those things.
And the headlight motors were the first thing i checked when i started fiddling with the accessories, lol. I love those things.
#19
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Be careful, if the steering wheel is crooked/bent then it might have been in an accident. When I crashed my z28 one of the major issues was that by me holding onto the steering wheel tight when I spun into a Jersey Barrier, I bent the steering wheel/column and after having ti bent back into place it was still way off. The whole thing was then replaced. Not saying that that car has been wrecked but see if you can get a carfax.