is it safe to use 0w30
#24
The LS1 does not need a thick oil. The factory says use a 5w-30. GC (german castrol) is 0w-30 and is one of the thicker 30w oils. The 0w- is only an indicator of oil viscosity (ability to flow) at low temps. The 30w is an indicator of viscosity at close to operating temp.
(the thing about GC is that it's made in Germany where, if the label says synthetic, it must be a real synthetic...not highly refined crude oil. It's also a good oil and has produced good wear numbers as indicated through used oil analysis. I used some and got some analysis numbers on my Camaro that weren't a whole lot different than the other oils I've used and had analized).
Contrary to a recent post, all 30w's are 30w at temp. That's why they call them 30w's. They may thin out over time to a lighter weight, but that's another story.
I have used the lightest, thinnest 5w-30 (Havoline Deposit Shield) and a very thick 5w-40 (M1 Truck & SUV) and recieved ridiculously similar oil analysis results. The LS1 really doesn't care. The piston slap was less with the DS, by the way.
So use what you wish, your car doesn't care.
#27
Funny...I never realized there were 25 and 35 w's in the SAE viscosity ranges...
| |
| SAE Gear Viscosity Number |
| __________________________________________________ ______ |
| |75W |80W |85W| 90 | 140 | |
| |____|_____|___|______________|___________________ _____| |
| |
| SAE Crank Case Viscosity Number |
| ____________________________ |
| |10| 20 | 30 | 40 | 50 | |
| |__|_____|____|_____|______| |
__________________________________________________ ____________
2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 42
viscosity cSt @ 100 degrees C
Can you provide documentation of those weight ranges?
Also, M1 is most definitely NOT on the thin side of 5w-30, though the commonly spread rhumor that GS is on thick side IS one that is correct. Please see the charts attached below for relative viscosities.
| |
| SAE Gear Viscosity Number |
| __________________________________________________ ______ |
| |75W |80W |85W| 90 | 140 | |
| |____|_____|___|______________|___________________ _____| |
| |
| SAE Crank Case Viscosity Number |
| ____________________________ |
| |10| 20 | 30 | 40 | 50 | |
| |__|_____|____|_____|______| |
__________________________________________________ ____________
2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 42
viscosity cSt @ 100 degrees C
Can you provide documentation of those weight ranges?
Also, M1 is most definitely NOT on the thin side of 5w-30, though the commonly spread rhumor that GS is on thick side IS one that is correct. Please see the charts attached below for relative viscosities.
#29
The GC European Formula does say " Made in Germany" on the back. Right next to the big 0w30 on the bottom.. It used to have it one the front, now only the back. I have been using it for over two years now, best oil I have ever used!! And they carry it at the Zone right next to my house..
#33
I can't really say anything about the Castrol oil, I have used mobil 1 5w-30 in almost every car I have ever owned, my 1996 neon had 120k on it when I removed the head I could still see the cross hatchings in cylinder walls, this car was a weekend warrior at the strip and autocross. Opposed to my friend with about 100k with quaker cake, play in the pistons, walls worn. Anyway synthetic does have a tendency to bring out leaks I bought my 2002 with 36k on it, and everthing was dry after 5k it had oil from the rear main seal, pretty sure it was because I switched to synthetic.
#34
Amsoil 0W-30 is the best
Ladies and Gentlemen,
Amsoil 0W-30 is superior in every way. I've been running it for 35,000 miles and I only change my oil once a year with absolutly no issues.
I'm not sure why you thought you needed a 10w-40 but without a very specific reason for using it (like a major mechanical issue) I would use synthetic a 0W-30 or a 5W-30 only.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/sso.aspx
Amsoil 0W-30 is superior in every way. I've been running it for 35,000 miles and I only change my oil once a year with absolutly no issues.
I'm not sure why you thought you needed a 10w-40 but without a very specific reason for using it (like a major mechanical issue) I would use synthetic a 0W-30 or a 5W-30 only.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/sso.aspx
#35
Ladies and Gentlemen,
Amsoil 0W-30 is superior in every way. I've been running it for 35,000 miles and I only change my oil once a year with absolutly no issues.
I'm not sure why you thought you needed a 10w-40 but without a very specific reason for using it (like a major mechanical issue) I would use synthetic a 0W-30 or a 5W-30 only.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/sso.aspx
Amsoil 0W-30 is superior in every way. I've been running it for 35,000 miles and I only change my oil once a year with absolutly no issues.
I'm not sure why you thought you needed a 10w-40 but without a very specific reason for using it (like a major mechanical issue) I would use synthetic a 0W-30 or a 5W-30 only.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/sso.aspx
I agree Amsoil products are good, but superior in every way? I would need to see some results to even begin to believe that.
Oils today have to meet an API standard with certain amounts of additives (ZDDP, etc...). Are Amsoil products a highly refined mineral oil; or do they actually use a PAO base stock?
I agree, a 40 Weight oil is a little thick; but is a good way to improve oil pressure if you have an older engine with clearance issues; or possibly live in a hot climate where the engine is struggling to keep the 210-220 operative temps.
Dirt ingression during oil changes is one of the biggest causes of wear; hence it's better to change on higher mileage intervals.
#36
Pep Boyz as well, (very recently) and sometimes on a great sale (~$4.00/quart) with a Pure One oil filter.
But it is most definitely, absolutely NOT available at WallyChinaMart, and probably NEVER will be!!
But it is most definitely, absolutely NOT available at WallyChinaMart, and probably NEVER will be!!