is it safe to use 0w30
#6
German Castrol 0w30 may be "rated" as a 0w30 oil, but you need to understand the ratings and the oils first before you realize it's NOT a drastic change.
GC 0w30 is on the high end of "thickness" or viscosity for a 30 weight oil, it means that it's close in qualities to a 40 weight.
The 10w and 0w have no bearing on the hot operating temps of the oil. Meaning that in cold temps having the 0w is better because it flows much better on cold start as opposed to the 10w.
Take these oils at operating temp.
RP 5w30
Mobil 1 10w40
Mobil 1 5w30
GC 0w30
The RP will thin to a 20 weight at temp as will the Mobil 1 5w30 and the 40 will thin to a high 30 weight and the GC has shown testing to remain a high 30 weight. At cold temps I'd want the 0w hands down.
The issue is about really age and maintenance of the engine. Switching to an oil that may expose the age of the engine. Synthetics have a tendency to show you if your seals are leaking or if your block is really porous or not. Ones that thin into 20 weights are not really ideal for the kind of engines we run and tend to get past the piston rings quite easily. As synthetics, they don't produce crazy amount of smoke, but your car will tell you when you are low on oil. On 5w30, mine drank 1 quart per 1000miles... with GC 0w30, no appreciable loss of oil between 8000mile oil changes...
If you want to educate yourself further, www.bobistheoilguy.com is a good resource as are most oil posts made by Patman, he's the ls1tech resident oil guru.
GC 0w30 is on the high end of "thickness" or viscosity for a 30 weight oil, it means that it's close in qualities to a 40 weight.
The 10w and 0w have no bearing on the hot operating temps of the oil. Meaning that in cold temps having the 0w is better because it flows much better on cold start as opposed to the 10w.
Take these oils at operating temp.
RP 5w30
Mobil 1 10w40
Mobil 1 5w30
GC 0w30
The RP will thin to a 20 weight at temp as will the Mobil 1 5w30 and the 40 will thin to a high 30 weight and the GC has shown testing to remain a high 30 weight. At cold temps I'd want the 0w hands down.
The issue is about really age and maintenance of the engine. Switching to an oil that may expose the age of the engine. Synthetics have a tendency to show you if your seals are leaking or if your block is really porous or not. Ones that thin into 20 weights are not really ideal for the kind of engines we run and tend to get past the piston rings quite easily. As synthetics, they don't produce crazy amount of smoke, but your car will tell you when you are low on oil. On 5w30, mine drank 1 quart per 1000miles... with GC 0w30, no appreciable loss of oil between 8000mile oil changes...
If you want to educate yourself further, www.bobistheoilguy.com is a good resource as are most oil posts made by Patman, he's the ls1tech resident oil guru.
#7
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I just recently switched to GC 0w30. I was running pennzoil platinum 5w30. I have to be honest, I am very pleased with the switch. My oil pressure is higher during cruising speeds, and the engine seems to run a little smoother. Although that could be the new O2 sensors....I have done no analysis, just monitoring oil pressure since the shift and the difference is noticeable.
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#8
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I've had five F Body's since 93 and I used Royal Purple quite often but no longer! I have switched to German Castrol 0W30. I have notice a major difference, and that is that RP seems like "water" compared to GC.