*PICS* Am i lifting properly?
#21
why the need to jack the car up so high? i usually just jack up the front driver side (right behind the wheel, where you would jack it up when changing the tire) about 2-3 inches. i actually changed it the first time without a jack or stands, that's how easy it is to reach the filter/drain plug, ha
#22
why the need to jack the car up so high? i usually just jack up the front driver side (right behind the wheel, where you would jack it up when changing the tire) about 2-3 inches. i actually changed it the first time without a jack or stands, that's how easy it is to reach the filter/drain plug, ha
and using Fram to say a Mobil 1 oil filter in my experience is it lasts longer.
#24
First thing....please don't change your oil using only the jack. It is extremely unsafe and if the jack fails the car will probably KILL you. We've heard several horror stories on this forum alone and you don't want to be a statistic.
Second thing...the jack you bought is OK for picking up one corner of the car...not for supporting the weight of the vehicle under the k-member. You need a much larger jack for that. I would suggest a 3-ton jack for that kind of weight.
Finally...you need to pick up a set of ramps from AutoZone, Walmart, etc. It will make changing your oil a breeze and it will be safe. My car is lowered 1.5 inches and I can still drive up the ramps just fine. If you think you will have trouble, buy ramps designed for lowered cars...they have extensions that make the ramps longer so the approach angle is better.
I use these and don't worry about dying: http://rhinoramps.com/
I got them for $40 at a local parts store.
Second thing...the jack you bought is OK for picking up one corner of the car...not for supporting the weight of the vehicle under the k-member. You need a much larger jack for that. I would suggest a 3-ton jack for that kind of weight.
Finally...you need to pick up a set of ramps from AutoZone, Walmart, etc. It will make changing your oil a breeze and it will be safe. My car is lowered 1.5 inches and I can still drive up the ramps just fine. If you think you will have trouble, buy ramps designed for lowered cars...they have extensions that make the ramps longer so the approach angle is better.
I use these and don't worry about dying: http://rhinoramps.com/
I got them for $40 at a local parts store.
#25
I have used Fram for 20 years and have never heard of one exploding. pics? what the hell were you doing to it for it to explode? lol
#26
First thing....please don't change your oil using only the jack. It is extremely unsafe and if the jack fails the car will probably KILL you. We've heard several horror stories on this forum alone and you don't want to be a statistic.
Second thing...the jack you bought is OK for picking up one corner of the car...not for supporting the weight of the vehicle under the k-member. You need a much larger jack for that. I would suggest a 3-ton jack for that kind of weight.
Finally...you need to pick up a set of ramps from AutoZone, Walmart, etc. It will make changing your oil a breeze and it will be safe. My car is lowered 1.5 inches and I can still drive up the ramps just fine. If you think you will have trouble, buy ramps designed for lowered cars...they have extensions that make the ramps longer so the approach angle is better.
I use these and don't worry about dying: http://rhinoramps.com/
I got them for $40 at a local parts store.
Second thing...the jack you bought is OK for picking up one corner of the car...not for supporting the weight of the vehicle under the k-member. You need a much larger jack for that. I would suggest a 3-ton jack for that kind of weight.
Finally...you need to pick up a set of ramps from AutoZone, Walmart, etc. It will make changing your oil a breeze and it will be safe. My car is lowered 1.5 inches and I can still drive up the ramps just fine. If you think you will have trouble, buy ramps designed for lowered cars...they have extensions that make the ramps longer so the approach angle is better.
I use these and don't worry about dying: http://rhinoramps.com/
I got them for $40 at a local parts store.
I would not use any ramps from Autozone or Walmart, I have a pair similar to the attached link, they are very nice, but expensive........
http://www.discountramps.com/images/race-r-corvette.jpg
#27
The glue they use to hold the filter together will occasionally fail. Sometimes it just locks the valve, and you can save the engine before oil pressure loss kills it.
Sometimes little bits of paper filter meet your oil pump and crankshaft.
I have had this happen to a few friends. We do our best not to sell Fram oil filters at work.
Here's a bit more info:
Fram Extra Guard
Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. It features cardboard end caps for the filter element that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and frequently leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time. The stamped-metal threaded end is weakly constructed and it has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow. I had one of these filters fail in my previous car. The filter element collapsed and bits of filter and glue were circuilating through my system. The oil passge to the head became blocked and the head got so hot from oil starvation that it actually melted the vacuum lines connected to it as well as the wires near it.
From this failure thread:
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=133446
#28
Well i changed the bulbs yesterday because they fog lights never turned on... and it did nothing. I moved the light switch to ALL options, and no lights came on. My blinker/signal lights came on and stayed on.. but nothing. I don't get it! You think it can be some nasty ugly wiring issues?!
#29
Well i changed the bulbs yesterday because they fog lights never turned on... and it did nothing. I moved the light switch to ALL options, and no lights came on. My blinker/signal lights came on and stayed on.. but nothing. I don't get it! You think it can be some nasty ugly wiring issues?!
#30
Well i changed the bulbs yesterday because they fog lights never turned on... and it did nothing. I moved the light switch to ALL options, and no lights came on. My blinker/signal lights came on and stayed on.. but nothing. I don't get it! You think it can be some nasty ugly wiring issues?!
#31
I had this problem until:
I cut a 1"x4" board to 12", and ripped (sawed lengthwise) a couple pieces to 1.5" wide. Then I figured out where I would place the ramps on the floor. I put the boards right in front of the ramps (vertical end). Drilled hole in each end of the boards, marked the floor, and put screw anchors down, and screwed the boards to the floor. Then whenever I'm going to ramp the TA, I just put the ramps up to the boards, and they no longer slide.
The TA is usually parked in that spot, so I don't see the boards. When the TA is outside for a day, the boards are still not a trip hazard for me, as they only stick up 3/4" from the floor.
#34
#35
A much better choice is AC Delco, Mobil 1, or K&N.
#37
FOUND IT! haha.. what an idiot, i went and replaced the bulb for no reason. I'm sure the stock one worked just fine! Thanks folks. I'll be picking up the ramp... along with some synthetic supertech (seems to be getting great feeback), and my headers/halos came in..