I would imagine that if the pads on the disk somehow fell off, your slave would have over extended itself and broke. If you have a slave hooked up with nothing for it to push and stop its travel, the piston will blow itself out and puke fluid everywhere

 

Also, I have never deal with a trans that leaked fluid out the front. So let me go back and say, I dont "think" there is a input shaft seal that can be replaced, I have never heard of one either.

 

Although I did a google search, and did find one person discussing the front seal on a t56, http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/showthread.php?t=381795

 

I'm with Chris on this one. It sounds to me like the disc come apart and that allowed the slave to over extend and blow fluid out. Spend the money and get you a GM slave.

 

The problem with getting a GM slave, is that the mexican one has a lifetime warranty. When they'll keep giving me new ones, it's hard to pony up and pay for one.
Yeah yeah, I know. Pay now or pay later.
The Mexican one mag be the same as the gm one. It's an O, O, O, O'Rileys.

 

Lol, if you run a 6 speed enough you will kill a slave cyl. or two. It doesn't matter what brand it is. That all seem to last about the same. I've killed about 5-6 of them

 

from my Father-in-law

Hilton,

I have a bunch of questions but I would have to do some on line looking at schematics to even be intelligent. Good luck with it. All of the following are just speculation and should not be responded to.

I did glance at the Schrader valve question. There is a lot of information on line.Wikipedia is nice, but I am not sure it is what you need.

I would replace the main seal because you are often supposedly suppose to when the transmission is out if there is any doubt. I would urge care because all those people that tell you to do it seem to kind of skim over the possibility of cutting the new seal and scratching the shaft in the wrong place.
I know little about fancy clutches. The slave cylinder is sort of on the side of the transmission and still fundamentally pushed down on a lever running from the throw out bearing to the push rod at the end of the slave cylinder???? I don't really see in my mind the "area between the slave and the transmission"unless the slave cylinder slides back wards into the transmission housing instead of bolting onto the side somehow. I am thinking of the slave as being a separate unit bolted to the side of the transmission or bell housing and connected to a reservoir via master cylinder on fire wall. IF the slave's piston was not adjusted so that it properly registered against the end of the above mentioned throw out bearing lever, then the slave piston could be pushed too far and blow the seals causing a leak with fluid ending up on the pressure plates---but you kind of should know this if the clutch master cylinder ran dry. On vehicles I have had, the reservoir is very small; so, any leak is quickly noted. I did have a couple of Fords with tiny amounts of consumption over time that did not seem to cause any trouble. Isn't there a viewing port where you make sure the push rod is in proper contact with the throw out bearing lever. Damage to the end or push rod end of the slave cylinder could be from making improper contact?????????????

As for the seal on the output shaft being water proof, that is an interesting question. I had an automatic transmission in which the drive shaft slid onto the output shaft and the seal actually road on the outside surface of the drive shaft end---as I recall. When I pulled the drive shaft I was surprised to see a small amount of ATF come out.dum I would not think a standard transmission would be like this, but it is a Chevy.

Get transmission jack that will work with jackstands, but get a weak one that will not life the car off the jack stands. Alternatively build one that allows the use of leverage. Have Kate stand on the end of the lever to lift the transmission. This would be great for about five minutes.

I pray you don't have something wrong with a main bearing?????????/

Take care,

Cal

 

I think I may pull the transmission apart in a little while.

 

Hey Hilton,

My experience with schrader valves is that any one will do. Ive even grabbed regular tire valves from the shop and they all worked.

 

I think I've discovered the cause of the problem. Some would call it a stupid mistake, I just didn't know.

After I put the LQ4 in, I noticed that the transmission slipped on REALLY easily! I thought I got lucky or had gotten to be a professional at putting them back in.

Turns out, "NO". I'm neither lucky nor a pro.

Automatic transmissions don't have a pilot bearing, and I didn't put one in.

The transmission (input shaft?) now is wobbley, and fluid comes out from around it. I'm going to call Tick or somebody Monday and see what they think. I had this transmission beefed up by SixSpeedsInc before they went out of business, so the parts should be good, I may need an input shaft, maybe a bearing, probably a seal... I have no idea really. I'll take recommendations. An input shaft should be pretty easy to find used. Plenty of people pull them out before they break to put in stronger ones.

All in all, I'm pleased to have figured out what caused the problems. I bet I don't repeat this mistake.

 

Now that would cause all kinds of chaos!

 

Well its great you figured out the problem. Remember when I asked a while back if you used the ls or the lq pilot bearing?? I asked cause I figured you had already went through this, and knew which one to get. Anyway, at least you know what the problem is, hopefully before it cause any serious damage to anything else. BTW, I run the advance auto parts slave. People on tech say it has the same casting # as the Luk slaves, and I also purchased a LS pilot bearing at O'reillys. I was surprised when you said it already had a bearing in it when you purchased it because I didnt think they put manuals in any of those trucks, but I dont get in many of them either.

 

+1 on the Advance slave cylinder and O'Reilys pilot bearing. I took Chris's advice when we put the Textralia in and went with those two exact parts. No problems so far after a few thousand miles and some track runs.

 

Hey guys, I am in Shreveport and I am looking for some type of ls engine to put in a 73 corvette. Ls1, but maybe better would be an LQ4 or LQ9. If you know of any, either call 318/422-2742 or email dfolse@aol.com. A nice pull out of something wrecked etc.

 

Somebody help this guy out^^^^^. Friend of mine, just got screwed over on a motor he was supposed to purchase. I know some of us have to know where some are laying around.

 

Pipes south had one not too long ago......$500 I think

 

Pipes had what?

 

Probably a ls or lq4/9

 

They had an LQ4

 

I looked earlier and cant find a number or listing for Pipes south. Do you have it? If so, I will check with them Monday.