shreveport/bossier hang out!
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My old coil tread.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearanc...ted-coils.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearanc...ted-coils.html
My car was on 15x3.5 up front and 15x10 with 7.5" backspacing on rear. It does require grinding or spacers. Grinding makes you legal incase the NHRA tech guys actually care enough to look. Spacers are illegal. But, most inspectors don't look that hard.
275/60/15s in rear, and 185r15s up front. As you can tell in my photo, they looked great and tucked up great!
Don't get me wrong, I never personally had any problems with mine. I actually came into a corner waaaaaayyyyy to fast at the end of a street race in Atlanta. I nailed the brakes and had to make a turn. I knew for sure the wheels were going to buckle, but didn't. I also ran without a front swaybar. No real problems. Just stating you will have to be careful and be aware of these things if switching to this type set up.
If you don't want to grind, you will have to go with the Weld XPs or some Bogarts. But, you then end up with 16 and 17 inch rims with tires that are more expensive.
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Ive never worried about front runners. Ive seen a 3.5 inch pro star slam to the ground from about 3ft and they were fine. Ive also hit many of pot holes with front runners and never had a problem. Im sure there would be a issue if you run a lowprofile tire but thats not the case. Ive also took some hard corners, drifts, and doughnuts with front runners and never had any problems at all. The front wheels are stronger than most think. Only time ive seen any get messed up was from a curb or a car rolling over. Just my .02.
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Tool Explanation
drill press: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching
flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the
chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the
freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner
where nothing could get to it.
Wire wheel: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'oh sh -- '
electric or pneumatic hand drill: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age.
Skill saw: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.
Pliers: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.
Belt sander: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.
Hacksaw: One of a family of cutting tools built on the ouija board
principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable
motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more
dismal your future becomes.
Vise-grips: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
Oxyacetylene torch: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race.
Table saw: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity.
Hydraulic floor jack: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.
Band saw: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.
Two-ton engine hoist: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.
Phillips screwdriver: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out phillips screw heads.
Straight screwdriver: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms.
Pry bar: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or
bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
Hose cutter: A tool used to make hoses too short.
Hammer: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit.
Utility knife: Used to open and slice through the contents of
cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly
well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic
bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic
parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in
use.
Damm-it tool: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling 'damm-it' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.
flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the
chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the
freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner
where nothing could get to it.
Wire wheel: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'oh sh -- '
electric or pneumatic hand drill: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age.
Skill saw: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.
Pliers: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.
Belt sander: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.
Hacksaw: One of a family of cutting tools built on the ouija board
principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable
motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more
dismal your future becomes.
Vise-grips: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
Oxyacetylene torch: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race.
Table saw: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity.
Hydraulic floor jack: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.
Band saw: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.
Two-ton engine hoist: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.
Phillips screwdriver: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out phillips screw heads.
Straight screwdriver: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms.
Pry bar: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or
bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
Hose cutter: A tool used to make hoses too short.
Hammer: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit.
Utility knife: Used to open and slice through the contents of
cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly
well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic
bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic
parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in
use.
Damm-it tool: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling 'damm-it' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.
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Ill be taking my drimel and making them perfect. On the other hand, these are 100x's better than the last set.
Old set
New set
Old set
New set
Last edited by BadAssBowties; 03-12-2011 at 08:01 PM.
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Yes Steve, they sent me coated headers because when they remade mine they done 1 1/2. I raised hell and told them it was bull **** to wait a full month for a damn set of headers. They said they would make another set and rush them to me. I simply said it was not happening and he just said theres a set of coated headers sitting here. Would those be fine? HELL YEA. lol
I was about to demand my money back and just build my own LT headers. Im happy with these as long as they fit. Gotta order a h3 pan before ill know if they fit though.
I was about to demand my money back and just build my own LT headers. Im happy with these as long as they fit. Gotta order a h3 pan before ill know if they fit though.
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Well at least its taken care of now. I took off my solid motor mounts today and put back on some stock rubber mounts. Demodding kind of sucks but its gonna be so nice to ride in a smooth car again.
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You can, but not recommended. You should always replace your retainers with new ones when changing your springs out. You will not be happy if that is the part that gives out when you are at high rpms. Knowing that spending a couple of bucks for all new retainers would have saved your motor.
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hey guys..i spent all day today driving down to houston to pick up another rolling body i found...its in better condition than my other body so it'll save time and cash on my build
heres a couple pics
please ignore the roller donuts lol
heres a couple pics
please ignore the roller donuts lol
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Ive got a nice set of 16'' 98-02 firebird wheels. Id take $100 for the whole set. I may even have a set of tires i can put on them for a little extra.
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Yes Steve, they sent me coated headers because when they remade mine they done 1 1/2. I raised hell and told them it was bull **** to wait a full month for a damn set of headers. They said they would make another set and rush them to me. I simply said it was not happening and he just said theres a set of coated headers sitting here. Would those be fine? HELL YEA. lol
I was about to demand my money back and just build my own LT headers. Im happy with these as long as they fit. Gotta order a h3 pan before ill know if they fit though.
I was about to demand my money back and just build my own LT headers. Im happy with these as long as they fit. Gotta order a h3 pan before ill know if they fit though.