M6 spray guys I have a question...
#1
M6 spray guys I have a question...
I am new to the M6 spraying scene, had the car for a few years but my last car I sprayed with had an auto. I still have the 10 bolt (I am saving for a 9" so PLEASE don't reply with that) and I am installing a wet kit that I will be spraying a 100 on and maybe a 125 eventually. My question is should I wait until second gear to spray since I have the 10 bolt? I am about to have the tranny rebuilt (its grinding) and put in a new clutch before I spray and I have 3.73 gears but I am installing the kit tomorrow since I am going to have the help. I have been looking at different progressive controllers that can lock 1st gear out and I am probably going to pick one up. I just wanted your opinion on it because I am kinda up in the air about spraying 1st.
#2
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What tires do you plain on using? On my car i had nitto drag radials and a 175 shot on a stock ten bolt. I still to this day dont have a problem with my rear end.(also saving for a 9") But i have never cut anything better then a 2.1 60 ft. I always spray in first no progressive controller. My car would always hook up from a 5 mph roll i just could never get it to leave hard. Its all going to come down to how hard the car leaves and if it wheel hops or not. My car never wheel hopped either
#3
Sorry I should have included what mods I have...
Tires are 305/35/18 Nitto drags, suspension in the rear includes hotchkis boxed LCA's, relocation brackets, hotchkis adj. panhard rod, and Eibach eibach pro kit. Engine has weiand lsx intake, stock heads/cam, LT's, ORY, QTP electric cutout, slowmaster muffler, and i have a spec 2 clutch. I have a feeling you have something slipping like your clutch possibly if you are spraying a 175 shot and hooking only pulling a 2.1 60'. That at least makes me feel better about spraying in first gear. I might give it a shot. I have a spare ring and pinion set if it does break..lol. Thanks for the reply
Tires are 305/35/18 Nitto drags, suspension in the rear includes hotchkis boxed LCA's, relocation brackets, hotchkis adj. panhard rod, and Eibach eibach pro kit. Engine has weiand lsx intake, stock heads/cam, LT's, ORY, QTP electric cutout, slowmaster muffler, and i have a spec 2 clutch. I have a feeling you have something slipping like your clutch possibly if you are spraying a 175 shot and hooking only pulling a 2.1 60'. That at least makes me feel better about spraying in first gear. I might give it a shot. I have a spare ring and pinion set if it does break..lol. Thanks for the reply
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Nope clutch doesn't slip a bit spec stage 2+. I never said it hooked from a dig i said it did from a roll. I launch at 3-4k bog or spin never a good launch.The reason it sucks out of the hole are the 3.23 gears in the rear end (out of a auto) and my window switch is at 3000 rpms with a WOT switch. If it spins i wait till it hooks i punch it and it sprays or if it bogs it usualy drops to 1700-2000 and i have to wait to hit 3000 rpms and then it sprays. Its just a shitty gear with not enough tire and no shock work thats why it's a dog, but im not going to put 4.11's in the 10 bolt because i know it will break.
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Ya its a bitch to drive in stop and go traffic as well as launch especially sense the spec does not like to slip and the hotter it gets the more it grabs. Thats one of the first things that im changing for next years setup, I'm sick of bogging the engine every time i take off or revving it real high to get it to move. But i think the 10 bolt will hold up unless you wheel hop, put mt radials on it or slicks..
#7
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I would run a controller that can lock out first gear. It should prolong the life of your rear if thats what your looking to do. I dont think you need a progressive controller, just a window switch that can lockout gears.
Last edited by Mike@HSW; 11-21-2008 at 08:57 AM.
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i ran one of these
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=194
is a window switch, tps switch, and has multi gear lockout and can run two stages. always worked well for me. spraying first on the street = no traction, spraying first at the track with 4500rpm launch = 1.65 60' when i had 3.73s but i wouldnt rist that on the ten bolt.
by the way, maybe i will see you around in a few weeks. lol.
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=194
is a window switch, tps switch, and has multi gear lockout and can run two stages. always worked well for me. spraying first on the street = no traction, spraying first at the track with 4500rpm launch = 1.65 60' when i had 3.73s but i wouldnt rist that on the ten bolt.
by the way, maybe i will see you around in a few weeks. lol.
#10
Ya its a bitch to drive in stop and go traffic as well as launch especially sense the spec does not like to slip and the hotter it gets the more it grabs. Thats one of the first things that im changing for next years setup, I'm sick of bogging the engine every time i take off or revving it real high to get it to move. But i think the 10 bolt will hold up unless you wheel hop, put mt radials on it or slicks..
#11
I ran a 10 bolt for 9 trips to the track with 4.11 gears a 6-speed and always sprayed out of the hole before it broke. I was spraying a 150 shot to it. When the rear did break it was by a bad wheel hop that caused the car to break loose then grab hard again. I then invested in a 12 bolt with 3.73 gears. My car would run out of gear in the 1/4 on the spray with the 4.11 gears and I was having to shift into 5th. I hope this helps some.
Good Luck!
Good Luck!
#12
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Nick
#13
I ran a 10 bolt for 9 trips to the track with 4.11 gears a 6-speed and always sprayed out of the hole before it broke. I was spraying a 150 shot to it. When the rear did break it was by a bad wheel hop that caused the car to break loose then grab hard again. I then invested in a 12 bolt with 3.73 gears. My car would run out of gear in the 1/4 on the spray with the 4.11 gears and I was having to shift into 5th. I hope this helps some.
Good Luck!
Good Luck!
#14
Yup, jump over and take a look at the MicroEDGE controller. It features multiple lock-outs for multiple stages. Each gear can be programmed rather than just one to fit whatever your needs may be. It also features dual stage control, TPS, lean/rich shutdown w/ wideband (lean w/ stock narrowband), as well as a boatload of delay features. Let me know if you have any questions about it. Thanks!
Nick
Nick
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go with the controller, I am putting together a kit and will be using one. Both of the ones mentioned in this thread I have looked at. Even the very basic units offer a lot of features. Its not like to need to drop 400-500 for something decent.