Hav you checked you noids lately????look inside
03-15-2009, 10:10 PM
#122
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he blew his self up.. i just saw it on the news...
"local man blows his self up with NAWS, despite advice given by many fellow geniuses"
"authorities say that he was letting nitrous into his engine of his c5 30k$ car with it off, just to "see what it would do""
"well diane, i guess we know now.."
http://tinyurl.com/ckb5c6
"local man blows his self up with NAWS, despite advice given by many fellow geniuses"
"authorities say that he was letting nitrous into his engine of his c5 30k$ car with it off, just to "see what it would do""
"well diane, i guess we know now.."
http://tinyurl.com/ckb5c6
03-19-2009, 12:28 PM
#123
lol....I hit the rev limiter once in my old 5spd 4.3 blazer and blew the air intake off, had a fireball come out the cowl of the hood and litl up the kid next to me I was racing. I can't wait to see what this genius with the C5 produces.
03-23-2009, 04:51 PM
#126
Man oh man, there is an absolute cure for this issue on the dry shots.
First off, the leaking into the intake of N2O because of a stuck nitrous solenoid can happen to any kit or set-up. It is not a wet issue nor a dry issue, but an inherent issue with nitrous in general. It is also not company specific as all have had this happen to their kits.
OK, the fix is simple, and I have been preaching it for years, however, one of the site vendors has been saying it's not needed, but I disagree. I will get to the actual cure in a minute but first want to talk about filters. A lot of intake backfires lately, mostly due to sticking N2O noids due to no filter. Even with a filter the noid can get debris in it because 90% of the guys put the filter at the bottle rather than at the noid. So what happens is you filter the bottle and that's it. Pieces of the Teflon liner in the braided hose and/or threading debris can now get into the noid and cause it to stick open. At the very least, put a screened fitting at the noid. So, keeping the debris out of the noid will a go along way toward keeping the noid in good working condition.
Now, what I have been preaching for the dry kits/hits is to run redundant noids. So very simple. There is no way your going to have two noids stick open at the same time. It's called the safety solenoid. That is really the only way the average street/stripper will get into trouble with a dry kit, the failure or sticking open nitrous noid. So add another noid in-line and you will have a very safe set-up.
Also, on the dry kits, lets say you have a sticking noid during a run. How is the redundant going to save you there? It will as you will be covered there as one of the redundant noids will still close and the system will be shut down as per normal. Then when your in the pits your intake will not fill up due to the sticking open noid, so no explosion when you go to start it up. That covers the after the MAF style dry as you can,t tell it's leaking. However, on a before the maf style dry hit you will instantly know when you have a sticking open noid during or after the run as the rpms will not come down to idle area. The MAF will still add fuel. I had my micro sw tapped closed so system would activate at set rpm for testing. Well i forgot the tapped sw and this is how I learned this little tid bit. I drove all the way to the drags and even made one pass before realizing what was up. I kept thinking man this is running good, like when I got on it a little leaving the bank and got to 3200rpm and the spray kicked in, hahahaha.
The below picture shows my old dual stage set up running redundant noids on each stage. I had over 300 runs/pulls with this system. In this time I had 3 or 4 solenoid failures (all were seat failure issues and thus leaking). But because of being redundant noids I never had both noids on either stage ever stick open or leak at the same time. That is something else we need to cover, some noid seats will fail and you will get a small leak that way, once again, redundant will cover this scenario. Runnning my set-up like this saved my motor a couple times for sure. it at least saved the intake from exploding and dislodging the fuel rails (the real reason why back-fires on our cars are so bad) spraying fuel all over for the fire to get bigger.
Here's one I did with a dry shot, a high rpm lean backfire due to no window sw and hit limiter and pulled fuel. Redundant would not have saved this issue, but the MicroEdge with the lean shut down would have. So we can make the dry hits absolutely bullet proof if set up correctly (run a ws, and a/f shut down).
The one thing about running redundant noids is the cumulative resistance. What that means is, the flow will be reduced because of the two orifice sizes being back to back. An example is the NOS small noids, they have about a .073 orifice size and can flow approx a 175 hit, but when you run them as redundant they flow only a 135/145 hit max due to restriction. So make sure you use big noids with nice sized orifices if you want a big dry shot.
About running the safety noid on wet kits. generally it has never been done. I guess the thinking is you have double the chance of the nitrous side not opening? Still seems like a smart move to at least think about doing this with wet kits?
I am going to copy my post and do another thread where we can talk about doing this with wet kits.
Robert
First off, the leaking into the intake of N2O because of a stuck nitrous solenoid can happen to any kit or set-up. It is not a wet issue nor a dry issue, but an inherent issue with nitrous in general. It is also not company specific as all have had this happen to their kits.
OK, the fix is simple, and I have been preaching it for years, however, one of the site vendors has been saying it's not needed, but I disagree. I will get to the actual cure in a minute but first want to talk about filters. A lot of intake backfires lately, mostly due to sticking N2O noids due to no filter. Even with a filter the noid can get debris in it because 90% of the guys put the filter at the bottle rather than at the noid. So what happens is you filter the bottle and that's it. Pieces of the Teflon liner in the braided hose and/or threading debris can now get into the noid and cause it to stick open. At the very least, put a screened fitting at the noid. So, keeping the debris out of the noid will a go along way toward keeping the noid in good working condition.
Now, what I have been preaching for the dry kits/hits is to run redundant noids. So very simple. There is no way your going to have two noids stick open at the same time. It's called the safety solenoid. That is really the only way the average street/stripper will get into trouble with a dry kit, the failure or sticking open nitrous noid. So add another noid in-line and you will have a very safe set-up.
Also, on the dry kits, lets say you have a sticking noid during a run. How is the redundant going to save you there? It will as you will be covered there as one of the redundant noids will still close and the system will be shut down as per normal. Then when your in the pits your intake will not fill up due to the sticking open noid, so no explosion when you go to start it up. That covers the after the MAF style dry as you can,t tell it's leaking. However, on a before the maf style dry hit you will instantly know when you have a sticking open noid during or after the run as the rpms will not come down to idle area. The MAF will still add fuel. I had my micro sw tapped closed so system would activate at set rpm for testing. Well i forgot the tapped sw and this is how I learned this little tid bit. I drove all the way to the drags and even made one pass before realizing what was up. I kept thinking man this is running good, like when I got on it a little leaving the bank and got to 3200rpm and the spray kicked in, hahahaha.
The below picture shows my old dual stage set up running redundant noids on each stage. I had over 300 runs/pulls with this system. In this time I had 3 or 4 solenoid failures (all were seat failure issues and thus leaking). But because of being redundant noids I never had both noids on either stage ever stick open or leak at the same time. That is something else we need to cover, some noid seats will fail and you will get a small leak that way, once again, redundant will cover this scenario. Runnning my set-up like this saved my motor a couple times for sure. it at least saved the intake from exploding and dislodging the fuel rails (the real reason why back-fires on our cars are so bad) spraying fuel all over for the fire to get bigger.
Here's one I did with a dry shot, a high rpm lean backfire due to no window sw and hit limiter and pulled fuel. Redundant would not have saved this issue, but the MicroEdge with the lean shut down would have. So we can make the dry hits absolutely bullet proof if set up correctly (run a ws, and a/f shut down).
The one thing about running redundant noids is the cumulative resistance. What that means is, the flow will be reduced because of the two orifice sizes being back to back. An example is the NOS small noids, they have about a .073 orifice size and can flow approx a 175 hit, but when you run them as redundant they flow only a 135/145 hit max due to restriction. So make sure you use big noids with nice sized orifices if you want a big dry shot.
About running the safety noid on wet kits. generally it has never been done. I guess the thinking is you have double the chance of the nitrous side not opening? Still seems like a smart move to at least think about doing this with wet kits?
I am going to copy my post and do another thread where we can talk about doing this with wet kits.
Robert
03-27-2009, 07:33 AM
#127
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exactly how was your nitrous set up? with the standard dry shot where the nozzle is well before the TB when you spray the nitrous it will simply expand inside the air box and push out into the atmosphere, just like your purge. When you fire up the motor you will have a very small amount of air moving through your IAC and your Nitrous has simply dissipated by then. It turns from a liquid to a gas so fast it cannot travel through you IAC as a liquid. Trust me, I have done it.
Go out to the garage and get your bottle out and crack it open a little, now, when you close the bottle where is your lingering cloud of nitrous? Now get a short hose and turn a 5 gal bucket over and spray some nitrous under the bucket, turn the bucket over and guess what....no lingering cloud of nitrous. The air box is extremely well vented as it moves enough air to let your motor breath right? well it lets the nitrous out just as fast. now keep in mind everybody is talking about a leaking solenoid, how bad was it leaking? could it have been leaking so bad that somehow the air box could provide a restriction to it? Dry nitrous works because of the speed of the air traveling through the intake tube carries it into the motor, when the TB closed it doesn't force its way past the TB, it simply goes out the air box as fast as it comes out the nozzle. If this was a dry kit after the MAF, was the nozzle installed after the TB? Give me till next weekend and I will post up a video. I am not saying that his car wasn't a dry kit or am I saying that somehow it can not backfire, but I will guarantee you can spray it into the airbox with the motor off (spray a 100 shot, not a small leak). then fire the motor up will no ill effects. Just got to have a little faith on this one guys.
03-27-2009, 10:27 AM
#128
No sadly he has not. He might be trying to buy a Southwest Airlines ticket because "Ya Wanna Get Away?"
Well my popcorn has got mold on it and I decided to hold onto my buck.
Will somebody please pm me if he does make the video so I can pop me a new bag of popcorn?
Well my popcorn has got mold on it and I decided to hold onto my buck.
Will somebody please pm me if he does make the video so I can pop me a new bag of popcorn?
05-02-2009, 02:11 PM
#129
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Don't give up on insurance!!!!
The nearly exact same thing happened to me in my 05 GTO, and I was re-imbursed in full by my insurance company. It took about 8 months, and they tried to put up a fight but eventually did pay.
The loop hole in my policy was that I had no insurance while racing, but I was on the return road when mine poped, (and he was in the staging lanes). And since the track in only a 1/4 mile long, and he wasn't on it, then he would be covered.. under the policy I had anyway. Plus there is no modification restrictions, so there is nothing wrong or illegal with having N20. I told them everything exactly as it happened, didn't withhold any info, and didn't lie about a thing, and eventally got paid, (with the help of a lawyer, and the state of NH's dept. of insurance).
The nearly exact same thing happened to me in my 05 GTO, and I was re-imbursed in full by my insurance company. It took about 8 months, and they tried to put up a fight but eventually did pay.
The loop hole in my policy was that I had no insurance while racing, but I was on the return road when mine poped, (and he was in the staging lanes). And since the track in only a 1/4 mile long, and he wasn't on it, then he would be covered.. under the policy I had anyway. Plus there is no modification restrictions, so there is nothing wrong or illegal with having N20. I told them everything exactly as it happened, didn't withhold any info, and didn't lie about a thing, and eventally got paid, (with the help of a lawyer, and the state of NH's dept. of insurance).
07-27-2009, 04:14 PM
#131
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that gto is in this clip blowing up at 32seconds
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/P...ose_697018.htm
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/P...ose_697018.htm
08-10-2009, 04:34 AM
#134
Everybody trying to blame this on dry kit, and I re read the entire thread and nobody seems to know whether it was wet or dry. Yes, it could be dry (with out dual N2O noids) or wet with a leaking in to the intake N2O noid. Redundant would have saved his motor should it be a dry hit? anyone know for sure?
Also, there was some argument about fuel supply with the key off. Well a stock system will hold pressure, and if you get a big enough explosion/backfire to dislodge the rails, then we have 60psi worth of fuel to bleed off and spread the fire all over the engine bay. thankfully, my dry back fire was not bad enough to do this. The guys that have changed to aluminum single plains are surviving the back fires fine, and may be partly due to the fact that this style has an easier path for the expanding explosion to escape through and of course aluminum is stronger overall.
Also, someone stated that a fly by wire is 25% open when the car is off, actually it is 19%.
Anyway, I still stand behind the dry being safer with redundant noids, and leaves very, very few scenarios that spell destruction. Anyone ever hear of a NOS 5177 having an intake blow apart? I have not, and credit this kit and it's redundant noids as the reason. that's the reason the NOS engineers came up with adding the extra noid, safety, and that comes from the mouth of an NOS rep.
Robert
Also, there was some argument about fuel supply with the key off. Well a stock system will hold pressure, and if you get a big enough explosion/backfire to dislodge the rails, then we have 60psi worth of fuel to bleed off and spread the fire all over the engine bay. thankfully, my dry back fire was not bad enough to do this. The guys that have changed to aluminum single plains are surviving the back fires fine, and may be partly due to the fact that this style has an easier path for the expanding explosion to escape through and of course aluminum is stronger overall.
Also, someone stated that a fly by wire is 25% open when the car is off, actually it is 19%.
Anyway, I still stand behind the dry being safer with redundant noids, and leaves very, very few scenarios that spell destruction. Anyone ever hear of a NOS 5177 having an intake blow apart? I have not, and credit this kit and it's redundant noids as the reason. that's the reason the NOS engineers came up with adding the extra noid, safety, and that comes from the mouth of an NOS rep.
Robert
Last edited by Robert56; 08-10-2009 at 04:46 AM.
09-07-2009, 02:15 PM
#135
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I'm reviving this for a little question. I have never ran nitrous so my knowledge is very limited. So here's the Q.
Robert56
In your post you stated that running two noids in series was a good way of avoiding a stuck noid. My question is how would you check a stuck noid in series?
I understand how you can check a single in a dry setup as you explained. However if you have dual noids in series then one may stick today and your down to a single noid setup without knowing it. So unless there's a way to check each individual noid I don't see a huge benefit.
Please correct my thinking
Robert56
In your post you stated that running two noids in series was a good way of avoiding a stuck noid. My question is how would you check a stuck noid in series?
I understand how you can check a single in a dry setup as you explained. However if you have dual noids in series then one may stick today and your down to a single noid setup without knowing it. So unless there's a way to check each individual noid I don't see a huge benefit.
Please correct my thinking
09-07-2009, 03:53 PM
#136
A great idea for this guy would have been to close the bottle while sitting in the lanes with the car not running. I never have my bottle open with my car not running it is just asking for trouble
09-07-2009, 10:15 PM
#138
Just a lowly turbo dude here, but wouldn't rebuilding your solenoids each month/bi monthly as some preventive maintenance help with the leaky noid issue? I like the idea of redundant solenoids as Robert said, but for 20 bucks a pop for rebuild kits for your noids....seems like money well spent to me. Or am I a bit off on this?
09-09-2009, 06:06 AM
#139
I'm reviving this for a little question. I have never ran nitrous so my knowledge is very limited. So here's the Q.
Robert56
In your post you stated that running two noids in series was a good way of avoiding a stuck noid. My question is how would you check a stuck noid in series?
I understand how you can check a single in a dry setup as you explained. However if you have dual noids in series then one may stick today and your down to a single noid setup without knowing it. So unless there's a way to check each individual noid I don't see a huge benefit.
Please correct my thinking
Robert56
In your post you stated that running two noids in series was a good way of avoiding a stuck noid. My question is how would you check a stuck noid in series?
I understand how you can check a single in a dry setup as you explained. However if you have dual noids in series then one may stick today and your down to a single noid setup without knowing it. So unless there's a way to check each individual noid I don't see a huge benefit.
Please correct my thinking
Robert
09-09-2009, 06:17 PM
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Robert,
Thanks for the answer. I didn't know that ya'll do annual inspections on your noids (again not a nitrous guy). That makes perfect sense, thanks for the clarification.
Thanks for the answer. I didn't know that ya'll do annual inspections on your noids (again not a nitrous guy). That makes perfect sense, thanks for the clarification.