Contemplating 1st NOS install, your thoughts?
03-04-2009, 12:47 PM
#21
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Yea, the 1/8th isn't that impressive over stock, but up top ain't bad. It will probably never see a stall, I like not having to change out my 18" y2k's for slicks just to mess around, or own another set of wheels with slicks. But, with upcoming gear change i'm sure it will be wheelspin city.
There is a FAQ in the stickies with times both pre and post Nos? i'll check again.
There is a FAQ in the stickies with times both pre and post Nos? i'll check again.
nitrous will not hurt your motor as long as u have the supporting mods and the proper tune for it.
and it seems like u want to go fast, but dont want to spend or do alot. a stall converter and sticky tires will make a HUGE difference over what u have. depending on what size converter u get, youll go from low 13s to mid 12s at least, maybe even quicker. a friend of mine is running 11.8-11.9 with a cutout, lid, 3200 or 3600 stall, drs and skinnies. he doesnt have LTs
03-04-2009, 12:53 PM
#22
The cam setup hasn't been ran in that low of D/A yet. At a 3K D/A it ran 13.0x at 110.55. This spring I full well expect to get high 12's.
The cam gained me quite a jump in MPH. Usually in that D/A here I ran 105-106ish, so about 4mph. But it proved to be one hell of an advantage on the street. I can stall and barely peel in the summer months and leave others sitting on the line wondering what happened. Once we get rolling the MPH takes over and we're done.
Then I added 18" Y2K vette wheels......
So i bet that cost me about a MPH or so. We'll have to see on that.
03-04-2009, 01:03 PM
#23
Isn't that the sales pitch for Nitrous? The cheapness isn't really a factor. I'm just not into getting TOO crazy with a car I take out of town and whatnot a decent amount. And, let's not forget, i'm not looking to spray a 200 shot here, just a 50-75.
Last edited by 96gt4.6; 03-04-2009 at 01:14 PM.
03-04-2009, 05:54 PM
#24
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Well, i have 2.73's now, so 3.42's would definately be a step up. I chose 3.42's because going any deeper is going to require me to have drag radials on all the time, same as a stall will.
I'm not so sure it won't be a tireburner with 3.42's, but with the reduced low end power from the cam I think it will be just about right.
Again, my goal is to be able to be somewhat tame on street tires down low, not radials/ect, and carry some serious MPH. It seems over the years this is the best combo for the street. Street races don't end at 1/4. If you got MPH you'll win everytime unless you spin or just get out muscled up top.
I'm not so sure it won't be a tireburner with 3.42's, but with the reduced low end power from the cam I think it will be just about right.
Again, my goal is to be able to be somewhat tame on street tires down low, not radials/ect, and carry some serious MPH. It seems over the years this is the best combo for the street. Street races don't end at 1/4. If you got MPH you'll win everytime unless you spin or just get out muscled up top.
03-04-2009, 10:54 PM
#25
I speed read through this and would like to make a statement.
I think the point the guys are trying to get across is that your combination is lacking. You would see better results working on the combination and traction issues rather than adding HP from nitrous which is only going to add to the traction issues.
I do not know if cost is something you are focasing on but if it is.
Dont let the illusion of nitrous being cheap for the power fool you. Nitrous systems done safely and correctly will easily be a grand or more after parts and tunning.
If cheap is what you are focased on you really should not add nitrous to your car. If you can not afford to do it right replacing the motor is deffintly an expence you can not afford to take on.
If I can be of any assistance if helping you in the right direction let me know.
Dave
I think the point the guys are trying to get across is that your combination is lacking. You would see better results working on the combination and traction issues rather than adding HP from nitrous which is only going to add to the traction issues.
I do not know if cost is something you are focasing on but if it is.
Dont let the illusion of nitrous being cheap for the power fool you. Nitrous systems done safely and correctly will easily be a grand or more after parts and tunning.
If cheap is what you are focased on you really should not add nitrous to your car. If you can not afford to do it right replacing the motor is deffintly an expence you can not afford to take on.
If I can be of any assistance if helping you in the right direction let me know.
Dave
03-05-2009, 07:45 AM
#26
I speed read through this and would like to make a statement.
I think the point the guys are trying to get across is that your combination is lacking. You would see better results working on the combination and traction issues rather than adding HP from nitrous which is only going to add to the traction issues.
I do not know if cost is something you are focasing on but if it is.
Dont let the illusion of nitrous being cheap for the power fool you. Nitrous systems done safely and correctly will easily be a grand or more after parts and tunning.
If cheap is what you are focased on you really should not add nitrous to your car. If you can not afford to do it right replacing the motor is deffintly an expence you can not afford to take on.
If I can be of any assistance if helping you in the right direction let me know.
Dave
I think the point the guys are trying to get across is that your combination is lacking. You would see better results working on the combination and traction issues rather than adding HP from nitrous which is only going to add to the traction issues.
I do not know if cost is something you are focasing on but if it is.
Dont let the illusion of nitrous being cheap for the power fool you. Nitrous systems done safely and correctly will easily be a grand or more after parts and tunning.
If cheap is what you are focased on you really should not add nitrous to your car. If you can not afford to do it right replacing the motor is deffintly an expence you can not afford to take on.
If I can be of any assistance if helping you in the right direction let me know.
Dave
Dave, thanks for your help. But, I still have a few questions.
Basically I'll have the following mods pre-nitrous.
TSP 224R cam
Longtubes and ORY
Air Lid
3.42's
Tune
And this setup would be inadequate?
Please elaborate.
Again, I only plan on spraying 2nd and 3rd, and only a 50 or 75 dry shot at that.
I have found Dry kits for around $300-$500. I don't see the need of a window switch with an auto and gearing.
Tuning is free, I have HP Tuners.
Thanks for the help so far!
Last edited by 96gt4.6; 03-05-2009 at 07:55 AM.
03-10-2009, 01:06 AM
#27
I would not say it is inadequate. I believe nitrous is the best bang for the buck... I wasjust aggreeing that some simple upgrades would be a great investment.
You are correct you can buy dry kits cheap our brand X dry kit is dirt cheap and our Brand X wet systems are only 349.00
I disagree about the need for a windowswitch though. Its cheap insurance. In the event you mis a gear, tranny slips, u joint breaks, car stumbles that simple 110 dollars can save you the thousands of dollars a new motor would have cost.
Dave
You are correct you can buy dry kits cheap our brand X dry kit is dirt cheap and our Brand X wet systems are only 349.00
I disagree about the need for a windowswitch though. Its cheap insurance. In the event you mis a gear, tranny slips, u joint breaks, car stumbles that simple 110 dollars can save you the thousands of dollars a new motor would have cost.
Dave
08-18-2009, 07:01 AM
#28
Allright guys, a little update.
Since i've last posted on this thread i've done a few mods. I've added longtubes, ORY and 3.23's. So far this has netted me around .3-.5. I've been running 13 flat to high 12's in 3k ft D/A. The car was usualy 13.4x at that altitude.
So, now i'm adding the nitrous kit i've had shelfed. Going with the 50 shot as I don't have much injector left to work with (stockers).
My main question, where to position the nozzle? I've been looking here on tech, and most everyone says to put the nozzle in the back side of the airbox, facing the nozzle discharge face towards the air inlet. Any thoughts on this?
Since i've last posted on this thread i've done a few mods. I've added longtubes, ORY and 3.23's. So far this has netted me around .3-.5. I've been running 13 flat to high 12's in 3k ft D/A. The car was usualy 13.4x at that altitude.
So, now i'm adding the nitrous kit i've had shelfed. Going with the 50 shot as I don't have much injector left to work with (stockers).
My main question, where to position the nozzle? I've been looking here on tech, and most everyone says to put the nozzle in the back side of the airbox, facing the nozzle discharge face towards the air inlet. Any thoughts on this?
