96gt4.6

iTrader: (5)

So here I am, thinking of joining the nitrous bandwagon. I'm not looking for much, thinking about a 50-125 dry kit. I have the following mods:

TSP 224R cam
SLP Lid
Catless exhaust
HP Tuners tune

Car is an A4 with 2.73's out back.

I plan on putting in some 3.42's in the near furture, and LT's and ORY later on. There is so much talk about NOS, I just want to clear up a few things.

1. A lot of people say Nitrous kills the N/A motor, meaning, off the juice it's slower than it would have been if not juiced.

I could maybe see this with a 150+ shot juicing every time you get on it, but surely not a 50-75 shot? Maybe if the tuning is off.

Basically, i'm looking for people who have run Nitrous for years, and have timeslips to back up pre-NOS N/A passes.

5_02ls1

iTrader: (20)

so you have a cammed car with stock manifolds and srock stalll????boy i bet it a slug.........

also theres a n20 faq in the stickies.....

96gt4.6

iTrader: (5)

Yea, the 1/8th isn't that impressive over stock, but up top ain't bad. It will probably never see a stall, I like not having to change out my 18" y2k's for slicks just to mess around, or own another set of wheels with slicks. But, with upcoming gear change i'm sure it will be wheelspin city.

There is a FAQ in the stickies with times both pre and post Nos? i'll check again.

matt3383

iTrader: (3)

NOS is a company
N20 is what you need to be typing

And n20 killing (slowly) a otherwise stock ENGINE ive never heard of. You should do all the supporting mods before you think about putting any spray on that car though.

I have not been running my car for years but when i was full bolt on's i trapped 110. After a year of running off and on with n20 I still trapped the same MPH off the bottle.

john563

iTrader: (17)

you could get a timing tuner so it would not affect your N/A tune..only pulls timing while spraying

jdiddyws6

iTrader: (5)

You can put a converter in it and not have to change off 18's. There's guys around here cutting 1.5x and 1.6x on 275 drag radial on a 17 and 18. A converter will pick the car up more than anything.I think you should reconsider imho

RedRallyeZ

iTrader: (20)

absolutley, i put in a cam and heads at the same time as my stall, and my yank ss3500 was my favorite mod out of that group. i was against them at first, but now illl never go back. do a stall and then come back and well talk ahout the naawz

jarednut4ever

iTrader: (14)

I 100% agree, The stall rocks, Just get some sticky mickeys.

96gt4.6

iTrader: (5)

Although I appreciate all the help given thus far, maybe i've mis-conveyed my true intentions.

I drive my car, a lot. Granted, a stall won't really effect driveability anywhere near an intolerable level. But, if I stall it, i'll need slicks/radials, all the time. Not that i'm against that, but daily driving on radials, especially MT's, will greatly reduce their life. Plus, I can't even get an MT in my size that's a radial. I don't want to drive around with two sets of rims. I like being able to leave my wheels on, drive 200 miles away and still be able to have some fun with the locals.

My point is, yes, if I wanted a 1/4 time only, you can't beat a stall. no way, no how. But, with N20? (did i get that right) you can have your cake and eat it too. Not only can i hook on street tires, but I just just push the button and run people down. We all know MPH wins a street race, I don't think i've ever seen someone stop at 1/4.

First and foremost I'm getting longtubes and gears, no doudt, and i've said this in my 1st post. Spraying my current setup definately isn't ideal.

What's your guys take on this, am I crazy?

02 BLK WS6

iTrader: (11)

NOS will blow the rivets out of your passenger floorboard. Gotta watch the manifold pressure too.

jdiddyws6

iTrader: (5)

Maybe.You can do the kit if that's what you really want, but you can get some 305 nittos for your rims that will last quite a while, and a good converter for the street, and that thing is going to be a whole nother beast

WhitePhoenix99

iTrader: (12)

+1. . Stall it up after your headers and gears, throw some nittos on it. If that's not enough spray the sumbitch

Ruckus46Gt

iTrader: (9)

where did you get this info from. A stall isnt going to make you need to run slicks. Your cars still going to spin on spray so why put that on the car?

96gt4.6

iTrader: (5)

Really? So it really isn't that bad to hook on regular street radials? I only ask becuase all the vehicles i've been in with a stall absolutely are worthless on regular street tires, but maybe it's just the vehicles i've been in?

I don't think i'll have a spinning problem juicing in 2nd and beyond. With a stock stall and 275's. And, let's not forget, i'm not going to spray greater than a 100 shot either.

Good info so far guys, but i'm not lookin' for a 1/4 time here, i'm wanting MPH. I've raced many cars that run mid 12's that were all 60' cars, they just can't hang on the street. Take away their 60' and it's a whole different game.

jdiddyws6

iTrader: (5)

No, you just have to get the right stall, right suspension, and right tire. Like I said, there are plenty of people that I'm aware of cutting 1.5x and 1.6x 60' on 17 and 18 wheels with 275 nittos with relativley mild suspension.

96gt4.6

iTrader: (5)

But, on a street race, isn't MPH the determining factor? I run 13.1 all day, only a 1/10th faster than my non-cam times, but with 4-5 more MPH. I can dead hook on regular radials and carry the MPH to run down faster cars, if they don't stay on the line spinning.

Granted, i'm confident i'll have traction woes with the gears, but nothing like a stalled car on radials does.

Again, not building a 60' car here. 1/4 times are not of my concern, it's a different game on the street. So with LT's and gears added to my setup, a shot of juice seems like the way to go.

Now, absolutely, if I just wanted to see what I could squeeze out for a timeslip, I could hit 12's all day with a stall and slicks, no argument there.

jdiddyws6

iTrader: (5)

I've been to the track a handful of times, and I race pretty much every weekend if that tells you anything. You can have a stalled car on some fuzion zri's with some stock style suspension and dead hook on the street. Just lettin ya know.And MPH does play a part in street racing, but you don't want to risk not being able to run somebody down. You've got a decent cam, and you want to get the most out of your setup before you up the power.

96gt4.6

iTrader: (5)

Very true. I have experienced that situation firsthand. This last winter, I had traction issue and was left sitting. Once somebody gets two to three lengths on ya and the cars are similar MPH it's over.

LT's and gears are definately going into my setup. TX speed flat out told me not to expect much increase without either, and that is very well true.

I'll probably do the gears, LT's and a 50 shot for starters. A stall can come later. I have a couple of people with stalls that I hang regular with, I'd like to see how they fair on the street 1st.

021less

iTrader: (28)

i'm not sure why you think 3.42's is going to make a huge difference over the 3.23's.... cause its not. A stall is more than just to get you off the line. it also keeps the revs up when shifting. Stall before the juice in my opinion. And if you are going to do a gear change why go for 3.42's?? why not at least 3.73's are 4.10's???? Swapping to 3.42's would be a waste of time.

96gt4.6

iTrader: (5)

Well, i have 2.73's now, so 3.42's would definately be a step up. I chose 3.42's because going any deeper is going to require me to have drag radials on all the time, same as a stall will.

I'm not so sure it won't be a tireburner with 3.42's, but with the reduced low end power from the cam I think it will be just about right.

Again, my goal is to be able to be somewhat tame on street tires down low, not radials/ect, and carry some serious MPH. It seems over the years this is the best combo for the street. Street races don't end at 1/4. If you got MPH you'll win everytime unless you spin or just get out muscled up top.