HSW noid going bad
#22
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to say "you won't have problems" with anything......is just asking for problems.
-Will
#23
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Quite a profound statement seeing as how it seems as though they haven't really established waht caused the current problems....If they are getting too hot due to their location, the wiring is causing problems, or they're filling up with trash then that schnazzy looking carbon fiber noid will likely do the same thing ![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
to say "you won't have problems" with anything......is just asking for problems.
-Will
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
to say "you won't have problems" with anything......is just asking for problems.
-Will
#28
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I didn't read anywhere that you used a relay on this. If you're just going straight off of another ignition wire then you may not be getting the power you need to open it at this pressure...
I know you're a "pro" and probably do have it wired to a relay but I also read in another of your posts you installed it backwards the first time so...
I know you're a "pro" and probably do have it wired to a relay but I also read in another of your posts you installed it backwards the first time so...
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#29
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has worked since i got the nano. Solenoids are mounted bw/ coils/fast intake area, not alot of heat really. And the solenoid has always opened until recently, I thought I had a loose ocnnection even though everything is soldered, I then thought my purge switch was going out, I then replaced the relay, everything points to the noid going bad. Btw I have 2 (and on backup bottle 2) nitrous gauges, 1025-1050 consistently. Solenoids have seen 1075-1100 a time or 2, but I know ppl who spray at that consistently.
I'd try a different location (hoping it is just getting heat soaked which could effect the valves and the wires). Mine are mounted between the radiator and the condenser
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#30
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they are located under my fuel rail covers, and this could be an issue, and yes I had the fuel solenoid backwards pulling an all nighter getting the car ready for the dyno, WOOPS
purge seems to be working as of late, bottle got somewhat warm today, and was around 1075 and purged just fine. When I have had issues in the past though, car has been cold. I will mess with it a little bit more and see how it reacts. and yes many relays were used in this setup.
radiator and condensor is SOO far from my n20 plate though, that would be horrendous long lines.
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radiator and condensor is SOO far from my n20 plate though, that would be horrendous long lines.
#31
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they are located under my fuel rail covers, and this could be an issue, and yes I had the fuel solenoid backwards pulling an all nighter getting the car ready for the dyno, WOOPS
purge seems to be working as of late, bottle got somewhat warm today, and was around 1075 and purged just fine. When I have had issues in the past though, car has been cold. I will mess with it a little bit more and see how it reacts. and yes many relays were used in this setup.
radiator and condensor is SOO far from my n20 plate though, that would be horrendous long lines.
![Tongue](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_tongue.gif)
radiator and condensor is SOO far from my n20 plate though, that would be horrendous long lines.
Hmmm... Only advice I can give is every time I had an issue like that in the past is was wiring. Either not a big enough gauge, not a big enough power source or the wires got heat soaked and didn't work. Doesn't sound like this is your problem though... Unless it just got cooked or something.
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wires are taped loomed and ziptied. Like I said it seems to be doing ok now, and all my fills go through a NOS filter from the same place. We will see, maybe it just had a dee de dee moment for a week LOL
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My HSW purge selenoid also took a **** at about a year with 2-3 bottles through it, if that. Is scary to think about what would happen if the bigger ones do that. It is shielded from heat, never dropped, etc. Looks like I'm not the only one with this problem.