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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 04:51 PM
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Default stock bottom end

with head and cam not forged how much can i spray
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by AjSmoker
with head and cam not forged how much can i spray
depends on your fuel system. We've hit stock bottom end cars with 300 shots before. You are on borrowed time with that and i don't recommend it. Generally speaking a 150 shot is the "safe" level, as long as you upgrade your fuel system.
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 05:19 PM
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what kind of price for maybe up to a 250 shot for a good system once i upgrade to some bigger cubes
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 06:06 PM
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depends on a lot of things, maybe you could look around on our site to get an idea of what you want.
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 06:21 PM
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so if i hook up nitrous i can just spray a hit when ever or do i basicly have to de tune
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 06:45 PM
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assuming you have everything dialed in already, then yes. I suggest doing a lot of reading, the stickies provide a lot of great basic information. Since your new to it, i would suggest starting off small with like a 75 to 100 shot.
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike@HSW
depends on your fuel system. We've hit stock bottom end cars with 300 shots before. You are on borrowed time with that and i don't recommend it. Generally speaking a 150 shot is the "safe" level, as long as you upgrade your fuel system.
Im a bit curious...what is the difference with hitting a bone stock bolt on car with a 200 shot to get 500-550 rwhp or a head and cam car with a 100 shot to get to 500-550 rwhp? Wouldn't that be the same stress on the motor?
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by badaSS346
Im a bit curious...what is the difference with hitting a bone stock bolt on car with a 200 shot to get 500-550 rwhp or a head and cam car with a 100 shot to get to 500-550 rwhp? Wouldn't that be the same stress on the motor?
The difference would be the spike in cylinder pressure from the larger shot.
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by SPEEDYws6
The difference would be the spike in cylinder pressure from the larger shot.
Which would make me think that spraying a h/c car would be "safer" to reach the same rwhp.
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by badaSS346
Which would make me think that spraying a h/c car would be "safer" to reach the same rwhp.
Think about this,

If you make more power than stock then you have more air and fuel than the factory settings. You have more air being compressed from the valves being opened longer so that means more air is being compressed into the same size chamber than before. This will cause cylinder pressure to be higher than before. Now is there a set corresponding cylinder pressure with RWHP, not that I know of on a gasoline engine. If you have a cylinder pressure transducer on a head to measure the pressure and compare that to where it sits on torque curve then you will see when you make more torque the cylinder pressure will always rise. This is true for N/A, Turbo, Blower, Bottle, Diesel, Alcohol, ect.

The stock hypereutectic pistons can only take so much pressure before you crack them. Now number 7 and 8 usually go first from a lean condition witch is hotter on a Gasoline powered engine. Heat will weaken the chemical properties of the metal pistons and makes it easier to have elastic and plastic deformation. When you have plastic deformation then you have a big problem and you are going to have to buy a new rotating assembly or short block.

In short, there is no easy answer that which one is safer in my book. I think unless your engine is setup for nitrous then you are on borrowed time.
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 09:55 PM
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True strory on the cylinder pressure... Generally it's the spike from a big shot that causes problems though. 550 hp will usually last a long time either way when done correctly, and you can also hang a rod out the block doing either way incorrectly.
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